[Greenbuilding] Redoing all floors
Anncha
anncha1 at aol.com
Wed Jul 27 22:38:04 CDT 2011
I don't understand why anyone would seal the stained floors. Waxing is
so much nicer, it gives a beautiful warm glow. I did my floors ten
years ago, waxed them
and was told to wax them every year, did that once but have never
bothered again. I am so happy with them and get compliments all the
time.
Anncha
Anncha Briggs, ASID/ASRID
AR State Registered Interior Designer #2001
NCIDQ Certificate #015650
design and art consultation
T 501 663 1016
E anncha1 at aol.com
Please consider the environment before printing this email.
On Jul 27, 2011, at 5:34 PM, Ktot (g) wrote:
> I can't imagine the dark stains that are peeling up are white based,
> but I'm no stain expert and (another problem) the contractor refuses
> to tell me the brand/name of stain used (other than it's water-based).
>
> What do you mean "the concrete was never acid etched before using
> the sealer"? I don't believe anything was done after staining before
> sealing other than waiting a few days. What is the etching that
> should have been done--how is it done, etc.? This could be useful in
> further documenting the problems (since ultimately the contractor IS
> going to be paying for my new floor, though probably not by their
> choice).
>
> Also can you explain more about shot blasting? You say it's more
> cost-effective, but how does it compare to grinding as far as time
> involved, how much it's going to totally mess up my house, etc.? No
> one's mentioned this yet but it sounds like something I should look
> into, especially since sealer removal will be required whether I go
> with more concrete staining or with tile (or something else I
> haven't yet considered). We're talking about 1500 sq. ft. in
> multiple rooms and hallways.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Andrew Pace
> To: Green Building
> Sent: Wednesday, July 27, 2011 5:23 PM
> Subject: Re: [Greenbuilding] Redoing all floors
>
> Non-acid stains like soy stains or polymer stains only sit on the
> surface and in some of the macro-pores of the concrete. Acid stain
> works by chemically reacting with the free lime in the concrete and
> the salts in the stain, to physically alter the chemistry of the
> concrete, thus changing the color. The white you see could be a
> white base stain, or, it could be that the concrete was never acid
> etched before using the sealer. Acid etching removes the “cream”
> off the surface of the concrete. This is the fine white or grey
> powder that will eventually dust off the surface. Without removing
> the cream, any coating or topical stain will eventually peel off the
> surface, since its only sticking to dust.
>
> Grinding and shot blasting are two different ways to achieve the
> same end result. It its a large area, shot blasting will be more
> cost effective and will require less prep before the next coating is
> applied.
>
>
> Andrew Pace
> Green Design Center®
> Waukesha, WI
>
>
>
> On 7/27/11 5:05 PM, "Ktot (g)" <ktottotc at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> I have been told water-based stain--which was used to get the
> mottled creative pattern that was intended (without white blooms)--
> does not sink into the concrete like acid-stain does. Either way,
> where the stain and sealer have pulled up, there's plain white. It's
> chalky. Numerous concrete contractors had no idea what that was,
> telling me my contractor must have done a white layer of stain
> first, which I knew was not the case. One finally pointed out it's
> calcium carbonate that chemically reacted to something (the diesel/
> propane fuel? the exterior stain that was used indoors [as I later
> found out]?) That makes sense to me as one gets white on the finger
> when rubbing those areas. The white areas are all white--the stain
> has completely lifted up. So it does not seem to have gone down into
> the concrete--unless there is more under the calcium carbonate.
>
> Also I should have mentioned earlier much of the sealer seems to
> have disappeared. When put down it was very shiny (as it was
> supposed to remain) but now in many areas there appears to be little
> or no sealer (this is from work done two months ago), and one
> contractor commented the sealer is soft (vs. it supposedly the
> hardest, most durable there is per my contractor who clearly misled
> me in numerous ways).
>
> Per the sealer tech rep, the sealer does need to be removed whether
> I go with concrete again or with tile. He seems to lean towards
> grinding to remove it. Is that the same as the shot blast you mention?
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Greenbuilding mailing list
> to Send a Message to the list, use the email address
> Greenbuilding at bioenergylists.org
>
> to UNSUBSCRIBE or Change your List Settings use the web page
> http://lists.bioenergylists.org/mailman/listinfo/greenbuilding_lists.bioenergylists.org
> _______________________________________________
> Greenbuilding mailing list
> to Send a Message to the list, use the email address
> Greenbuilding at bioenergylists.org
>
> to UNSUBSCRIBE or Change your List Settings use the web page
> http://lists.bioenergylists.org/mailman/listinfo/greenbuilding_lists.bioenergylists.org
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://lists.bioenergylists.org/pipermail/greenbuilding_lists.bioenergylists.org/attachments/20110727/832596df/attachment.html>
More information about the Greenbuilding
mailing list