[Greenbuilding] New HVAC unit

[Bob Klahn]

Bill,
Basically, you drill a hole, usually 2 1/4" or 2 1/2", at one end of 
each cavity, and feed in a 1 3/4" ID flexible tube to the other end of 
the cavity, then pull about 8" back.  All this is, of course adapted to 
the end of the blowing hose with a smooth step-down.  I make my entrance 
holes along the bottom of the wall because it facilitates moving from 
hole to hole - and it's well below sight line, so any trace of the 
plug/patch is less noticeable.

Blow until 'refusal', i.e. when the motor on the blower starts to bog or 
whine and material stops flowing. This will have loosely filled the 
whole cavity and dense-packed the space within a foot of the end of the 
tube (effectively the 'nozzle').  Pull the hose out about a foot and 
repeat the process.  Repeat this cycle until you reach the access hole 
again.

I wad a bit of burlap around the tubing, to allow air out to keep the 
cavity from pressurizing, and draw the tube out through it.  This keeps 
the  insulation 'snowstorm' out of your face and minimizes the mess in 
the site.  I usually do this from the interior; it is easier to patch 
the wall surface and avoids damage to any drain plane (older houses 
often have rosen paper between the subsiding and the siding that does 
function this way, sort of).

Marking the tube at 1' intervals, with extra warning at the last foot 
mark, makes the process easier - and saves you a face-full, if you are 
paying attention. The marks also help you locate the extra hole needed 
if you run into a blockage, such as a fire stop.  Lateral probing during 
layout will help you catch narrow, 'run-out' cavities but I'd advise an 
infrared scan to be sure you've gotten everything.

Use a full length of blowing hose before adding your tube reducer.  
Depending on the size of the initial hose, It often helps to add a full 
section, stepping down to 2" or 2 1/2" before adding the tube.  This 
acts as a stream straightener and reduces clogs.  You will still get 
clogs and a burlap sack lets you blow the hose empty into it to clear 
them, without causing a mess and losing insulation.  A large tarp under 
the blower will allow you to collect spilled insulation for reuse, but 
be very careful not to pick up any debris, it can damage the machine - 
if the insulation passes through the fan, it can destroy it - and may 
cause problems once in the wall.

Hope this helps you.
Bob Klahn

On 6/2/2011 8:23 AM, bill.allen at verizon.net wrote:
> Bob,
> I am interested in the details of "tubing".  Does it involve anything other than simply filling the stud cavities with cellulous?
> Thanks,
> Bill
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bob Klahn<Home-NRG at dnaco.net>
> Sender: greenbuilding-bounces at lists.bioenergylists.org
> Date: Thu, 02 Jun 2011 07:19:48
> To: Green Building<greenbuilding at lists.bioenergylists.org>
> Reply-to: Green Building<greenbuilding at lists.bioenergylists.org>
> Subject: Re: [Greenbuilding] New HVAC unit
>
> Bobbi,
>
> There are several wall blowing techniques out there, including some
> out-dated advice about drilling and blowing.  The only reliable
> technique I'm aware of is to 'tube' the wall.  This works well but takes
> a more powerful blowing machine than some of the big box rental units.
> Admittedly, our local big boxes have upgraded the machines they provide
> but I still get a Force I blower (which I know and trust) from a private
> rental outfit.
>
> Since you are going to remove some of the drywall, why not remove one
> whole row of the planks (assuming that they are installed horizontally)
> near the bottom.  This would provide the access you need to tube and
> blow the wall.  (I use burlap sacking to block the space around the
> tube.  This also tends to allow the wall to dump the excess air pressure
> as you blow in the insulation.)
>
> With a plank floor in the attic, you can also tube and blow it, just
> like a horizontal wall.  Then you can either lay batts out on the floor
> to boost the insulation or blow more loose-fill on top of the floor.  In
> the later case, it seems a shame to bury those nice old planks; I'd pull
> most of them for use elsewhere, leaving a solid walkway ( which could be
> ply (not OSB [personal prejudice]) just as well, freeing all of the
> planks.  If you use jacketed batt insulation for the top layer, you can
> roll sections back as you need storage space.
>
> Bob Klahn
>
> On 6/1/2011 11:03 PM, Bobbi Chukran wrote:
>> Bob,
>>
>> Thanks so much for all the information!  We really appreciate it. I'm
>> glad you delayed doing the dishes, but sorry about the insomnia.  LOL.
>>
>> I forwarded your messages to Rudy the Husband and he's making a brand
>> new set of questions for the HVAC guys.
>>
>> A few things...there is no existing insulation whatsoever in the
>> entire house.
>>
>> The attic ceiling is floored with the same amazing planks that make up
>> the walls and the floors (long-leaf antique pine...yes, a SCORE for
>> me!  LOL)
>>
>> There is no plaster in the house; there's only 3/8" wallboard, lightly
>> textured, over the planks.  I'll probably remove some of that anyway
>> from a few of the rooms depending on the roughness of the planks for a
>> painted "cottagey" look.
>>
>> I've watched videos and read articles about the blown-in cellulose,
>> and am confident that we can do it ourselves.  We're very handy, and
>> have done almost all home projects over the years except build a
>> foundation.
>>
>> I actually know a woman who has a crew of guys here who do energy
>> audits and such, so I'll check with her about the possibility of a test.
>>
>> Thanks again!
>>
>> bobbi c.
>>
>>
>> On Jun 1, 2011, at 9:10 PM, Bob Klahn wrote:
>>
>>> Bobbi,
>>> I agree that blowing cellulose into the walls and ceiling are your
>>> best initial reinsulation options. With caveats.
>>>
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