[Greenbuilding] wood shed

[Sacie Lambertson]

That round stack idea is beautiful and one I tried a few years ago; it is
not easy to accomplish, ie hard to stack and hold.  Our traditional system
of a long double row 10' or so long 5'-6' high works well and is easy to
stack.  Our ideal length is @16" too, but it varies.

We have a good system for bringing what we need indoors as well.  What I
need is a good wood shed plan.  The idea is that all the wood in that shed
will be covered on top with continuous tin.  The sides will be open.  We
simply stack our wood on pieces of Hedge on the ground; this species lasts
forever and keeps more vulnerable wood off the ground.  Now for a good shed
covering most of these stacks.  (We keep the oldest wood in a 2 nicely
built permanent covered stacks near the house; it is from these we fill our
stove, a continuously rotating deal through the winter; works well for me.)

On Tue, Feb 14, 2012 at 11:14 AM, Frank Tettemer <frank at livingsol.com>wrote:

> Wood burning is such a delight, and a real privilege to me!
> I feel very fortunate to have built in a rural area that does not
> experience congestion and crowding, which could be conditions to which it's
> just not a good idea for everyone to be heating with wood. Fortunate to
> live in an area where the number one local industry is based on tree
> planting and harvesting, where conditions are good for hardwood growth, and
> sustainable harvesting.
> This is Eastern Ontario, Canada, adjacent to Algonquin Provincial Park.
>
> Our wood shed area is about 14 feet by 8 feet. We cut to 14" - 15" length,
> to fit the Waterford Stanley Range, and burn about ten to twelve of these
> face cords each year, with about three of these going into hot water
> production, (guessing).
> This is equivalent to about 2 1/2 to 3 full bush cords.
>
> The shed is a frame construction on a frame floor, supported on six
> different placed-stones at the middle and corners. The roof is a peaked
> cedar shingle roof, 4/12 pitch,  running East and West. The walls are
> sheathed with horizontal 1x4 lumber with 1/2" spaces between each course,
> for improved air flow. The main entry is a seven foot wide open area, (no
> door), along the long south wall. There is an alternative entry on the
> North wall, to avoid the problem that you mentioned, Sacie
> "The difficulty here, the oldest wood would be the last pulled out"
> Sunlight falls on the front row of wood, which is filled up each autumn,
> with wood that has been stacked in the open in double rows for two years,
> capped with steel roofing "cover sheets".  The varied colours of the steel
> seem to match the different homes that we've built for people over the
> years. Scraps and cover sheets are endlessly useful!
>
> John, I like your suggestion of the haystack pile "Holz Hausen".
> The idea of marking the central pole at 80%, to watch it dry and shrink,
> seems brilliant!
> However, in our climate, it would be a rare event to have it dry
> sufficiently in only three months.
> Here, the wood is cut in Autumn before the snow is too deep, or late
> Winter, as the snow depth declines enough to work in the bush.
> And I never seem to get it stacked until late Spring. But our pleasant
> growing season here includes enough rain, typically, to slow wood drying,
> so it takes until the following Autumn, (1 1/2 to 2 years), for the wood to
> burn most efficiently, i.e., less than 20% on the Protimeter, or moisture
> meter.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Frank
>
> --
> Frank Tettemer
> Living Sol ~ Building and Design
> www.livingsol.com
> 613 756 3884
>
>
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