[Greenbuilding] Insulating 140 Year Old Wood Framed Brick Facade Building

[Sam Ewbank]

Apologies if this is not clear and succinct but I'm typing this on my phone
that isn't designed for long replies.
Thanks for the input Lauren but with no sheething between the studs and the
brick I'd worry about the cellulose being packed up against the brick then
getting wet and setting due to moisture migration. Do you think the
insulation would allow the brick to dry?
One solution might be installing rigid insulation between the studs and
then filling the cavity with cellulose. I can't think of a good way to get
netting or sheething between the studs and the brick due to the 1' on
center studs and the 20d cut nails used as brick ties.
Another would be installing rockwool batts between the studs and then a
rigid insulation in place of the sheething. At least the rockwool is
hydrophobic and won't absorb water from what I've read. Both ideas have
drawbacks. The first is removing the rest of the interior sheething and
lathe but is likely necessary for insulting properly. Installing rigid
insulation between the studs would be labor intensive.
I guess another solution would be to install multiple layers of rigid
insulation with taped and sealed edges and joints over the top of the
sheething or studs.
The owners are planning to eventually install gypsum plaster as the
finished wall covering.
There is no knob and tube wiring.

Any other ideas or solutions to a similar situation?

Sam

On Jun 12, 2013 7:27 PM, "LarenCorie" <LarenCorie at axi
>
>
>> 2"x 5" wood studs 1' on center
>>
>> 1" sheathing (widths very from 6" to 30")
>>
>> vertical lath on top of the studs
>>
>> horizontal lath (spaced for plaster key ways)
>>
>> plaster which has been removed.
>>
>> There is no insulation currently in the building.
>
>
>> The building is located in USA, Southwest Michigan zone 5, approximately
>> 6,600 hdd, and 34" of precipitation per year.
>>
>> Walls are 14' tall
>
> Hi Sam;
>
>       If there is no active knob & tube wiring in those walls,
> I recommend dense packed cellulose though having removed
> the plaster, with the lath still in place, may demand interesting
> leak/dust procedures during installation. You may do best to
> install the interior finish first (if the inspector allows that) or
> glue insulation netting over the face of the lath.     Talk to a
> cellulose contractor, or call Applegate or Nu-Wool (both
> Michigan cellulose manufacturers)  Your best strategy will
> depend on the interior finish. If you are going to drywall it,
> you will probably do best to take down more of the lath,
> and use insulation netting. Might as well have most of that
> plane filled with R3.7 cellulose, instead of R1.25 wood.
>
> -Laren Corie-
> Natural Solar Building Design and
> Solar Heating/Natural Cooling/Energy
> Efficiency Consultation Since 1975
> www.ThermalAttic.com  (many new
> photos and pages, coming soon)
>
> Read my Solar house design articles in:
> -Energy Self-Sufficiency Newsletter-
> www.essnmag.com
>
> Home base-LittleHouses YahooGroup
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/LittleHouses/
>
> Founder-WoodGas - Power from wood
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/WoodGas
>
> Founder-RefrigeratorAlternatives YahooGroup
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/RefrigeratorAlternatives
>
> _______________________________________________
> Greenbuilding mailing list
> to Send a Message to the list, use the email address
> Greenbuilding at bioenergylists.org
>
> to UNSUBSCRIBE or Change your List Settings use the web page
>
http://lists.bioenergylists.org/mailman/listinfo/greenbuilding_lists.bioenergylists.org
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://lists.bioenergylists.org/pipermail/greenbuilding_lists.bioenergylists.org/attachments/20130613/7aa5bdec/attachment.html>