[Greenbuilding] moisture and painting issues in Seattle

Erin Rasmussen erin at trmiles.com
Sun Jul 6 22:14:58 CDT 2014


Sherman Williams is good, and so is Miller Paint. Miller Paint holds up really well in the damp.   I'm in Portland, just to the south, and  the sides of the house with vents have very little bubbling.  My uncle does tyvek or the green-wrap and then the usual outer layers. 

We get a lot of random moisture problems, and they are getting worse as the rain gets more and more tropical.  (The weather is changing).  I'm going to switch some of the key trim points with pvc  and up-size the rain collection on my front gutter to cope with the occasional tropical shower. 

Behr paint is thin, and the quality of the pigment isn't very good - it fades a lot faster than Miller. Sherman Williams is good.  In Portland we have recycled paints (Metro) in 'true' colors. It tends to be good quality paint and it's inexpensive. 

Remember to sand the old paint, and then clean it, and then wait for it to totally dry out, and then primer - I like water based primer. If your surface is sanded and scraped correctly it works well over oil and doesn't bubble.  Be generous with the primer ( if it's going under darker colors remember to have it tinted).  

Have fun!
Erin 

-----Original Message-----
From: "Sacie Lambertson" [sacie.lambertson at gmail.com]
Date: 07/06/2014 11:58 AM
To: "Green Building" <greenbuilding at lists.bioenergylists.org>
Subject: Re: [Greenbuilding] moisture and painting issues in Seattle

Thanks for the paint explanation Ben.  Makes sense.  It is the Sherman Williams paint that will likely be used and their rep was the person who made the most sense regarding best practice.


Now looking for responses from group re paint failure etc.


Sacie




On Sun, Jul 6, 2014 at 12:45 PM, Benjamin Pratt <benjamin.g.pratt at gmail.com> wrote:
Behr paint is really thin and takes multiple coats for good coverage. The paint contractors prefer is thick so you can do it and one coat.  I used behr paint when I originally painted the entire interior of my house and really regret it. When I switch to a better paint it went on nicer, and lasted longer. Sometimes I dont know where consumer Reports is coming from. Ive bought a couple of things based on their recommendation that Ive regretted. The paint costs twice as much per can but saves you a bunch of time.One of the paint contractors prefer is sherwins superPaint. However a decent compromise is the valspar copy of SuperPaint sold at lowes. Good stuff.
  

ben(Typing with only my left hand or using speech recognition due to injury)




On Sun, Jul 6, 2014 at 11:34 AM, Sacie Lambertson <sacie.lambertson at gmail.com> wrote:


​All,  I would appreciate advice vis a vis the following:


An old 1904 house gutted and insulated not real well with fiberglass batts, rewired, plumbed and painted by the previous owner.  The paint job, done probably within the past 6-7 years over both old and new clapboard is failing.


A number of painters have looked at it, each having their own theory and practice.  Photos taken of the outside in the cold indicate likely, moisture from the inside, usually where the studs and floor rims are.  (Paint failure no more here than elsewhere).


Paint company reps suggest climate does not allow thorough clapboard drying. Sun on damp clapboard causes previous paint to blister pulling up all layers of previous paint to expose raw clapboard.  Notable, up high where overhang protects, the paint is in good shape.  Best practice would be to first scrap/sand as necessary, allow air behind clapboard via widgets placed every 12-18 inches followed by an application of oil OR water-based primer and two coats of good paint.


Would appreciate comments/advice on all aspects, including the use of oil OR latex primer and why and the idea of allowing air behind clapboard.


Curious too why paint reps, (two different known brands), sniff at Behr paint the single most often recommended paint by Consumer Reports.  Assume no discount from Home Depot to painters??  


Thanks, Sacie











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