[Greenbuilding] attaching 2" rigid foam

Clarke Olsen colsen at fairpoint.net
Thu Dec 1 10:53:55 CST 2016


Quick hint: I found that a nail gun is essential when attaching furring strips over foam. When you drive them with a hammer,
that 2nd, 3rd (4th?) blow will have crushed the foam. The nail gun hits it so decisively, the foam says firm. 
Clarke Olsen
clarkeolsendesign.com
373 route 203
Spencertown, NY 12165 
USA
518-392-4640
colsen at taconic.net




On Nov 30, 2016, at 9:59 PM, Jeff Martin <jeff at open2learn.ca> wrote:

> Reuben,
> 
> We've recently installed quite a bit of 2.4" EPS on the interior of a cathedral ceiling and some side walls, to reduce thermal bridging. As Lynelle noted, the spiral or ring shank nails with plastic washers work well for holding the foam in place. We used 3" nails that come pre-assembled with white plastic washers, from Ideal Security. You would be able to use 2.5" nails. There are also metal washers available for the purpose. They're sturdier than the plastic ones, but I haven't seen them sold already paired with nails or screws.
> When we did our installation, we just used the plastic washered nails to hold the foam in place until strapping over it with furring strips (1 x 3s and 1 x 4s) onto which we installed the drywall. If you're going to install the drywall directly on top of the foam board, I wouldn't trust the plastic washers to hold everything in place over time. For your situation, I think I would use 3" drywall screws to drive all the way through to the studs. If you want to use glue, I'd make sure the foam was very firmly attached, before gluing the drywall to it (if gluing drywall without also using fasteners is allowed there). Maybe a good quantity of 2.5" screws paired with the metal foam washers?
> 
> Out of curiosity, what kind of glue were you thinking of using for attaching the drywall? Here (Quebec), all the fast-grab adhesives I've seen are quite expensive and would add noticeably to the cost of installing the drywall.
> Jeff
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