[Greenbuilding] best practice

Jason Holstine jason at amicusgreen.com
Thu Mar 17 13:13:11 CDT 2016



You might compare www.indowwindows.com ‹ interior storm windows.


Jason Holstine

Amicus Green Building Center
³Sustain Your Space²
e: jason at amicusgreen.com
w: www.amicusgreen.com
p: 301-571-8590
tf: 866-587-9140
f:  301-571-8597



On 3/17/16 2:05 PM, "Sacie Lambertson" <sacie.lambertson at gmail.com> wrote:

> Re the windows and the need for storms, I should have mentioned the obvious,
> of course we will be putting storms over these.  
> 
> Mentioning Pella Windows, I share Rob Tom's distaste for this brand.  We
> installed the high end line of Pella Windows in our current house, many many
> of these and have had problems with them ever since.  While they have a great
> warranty one that resulted in annual trips to remedy one problem or the other,
> now the warranty is over, we continue to deal with issues.  I will never ever
> buy Pella Windows again.
> 
> Speaking of storms, can anyone recommend good looking ones?
> 
> Thanks again for all the comments.  These are appreciated.
> 
> Sacie
> 
> On Thu, Mar 17, 2016 at 10:22 AM, Vadurro, Rob, EMNRD
> <rob.vadurro at state.nm.us> wrote:
>> You mentioned the windows. I think you¹ll find that after taking care of the
>> wall insulation to R-10 to R-20 or so, you¹ll be left with a bunch of R-1 or
>> R-2 ³holes² in the walls via the windows, not to mention the extra air
>> infiltration. I suggest investing in insulated storm sashes and air sealing
>> would be your best investment at that point.
>>  
>> Rob Vadurro, AIA
>> Park Architect
>> New Mexico State Parks
>> 1220 South Saint Francis Drive
>> Santa Fe, NM 87505
>> 505-476-3383 <tel:505-476-3383>
>> 505-476-3361 <tel:505-476-3361>  fax
>>  
>> From: Greenbuilding [mailto:greenbuilding-bounces at lists.bioenergylists.org]
>> On Behalf Of Sacie Lambertson
>> Sent: Thursday, March 17, 2016 9:04 AM
>> To: Green Building <greenbuilding at lists.bioenergylists.org>
>> Subject: Re: [Greenbuilding] best practice
>> 
>>  
>>> 
>>> THANK YOU all for the many responses.  And I'm sorry I didn't fully explain
>>> the house redo.  We are entirely gutting the 2000 sq ft house.  We will be
>>> fully/properly insulating the crawl space and the attic. It is only the
>>> method of insulating the walls that is up the air.
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>>  I think the architect/builder/fabricator who did not do the plans for the
>>> house is knowledgeable.  I am certain he will make sure in the redo, the
>>> walls will be tight.  Moreover, seems to me a single sheath of polyiso taped
>>> on the inside would be added insurance would it not?  And strapped
>>> horizontally for drywall. I could sacrifice interior space for the better
>>> certainty of a job well done.  
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> The big downside to not pulling off that old siding is the possibility of
>>> having to repaint it more often than I might like because there is no
>>> rainscreen.
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> We are btw, going to reuse the old 2 over 2 windows as well; like the rest
>>> of the house these are in good shape.  I would be interested if anyone on
>>> this list knows about a good mid-west based restoration service. 
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Further comments on both these subjects are welcome.  I am paying good
>>> attention to those already received.
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Sacie
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> On Thu, Mar 17, 2016 at 6:39 AM, John Straube <jfstraube at uwaterloo.ca> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Very difficult to take such claims seriously: ³not worth it² depends
>>> entirely on the cost of the doing ³it² and what ³it² gets you. Too many
>>> practical and economic variables to be able to make such a statement.
>>> Adding insulation between the framing will be massively impacted by thermal
>>> bridging.  You will have a hard time getting airtightness to the same level
>>> as from the exterior. 
>>> But, if you are willing to live with an equivalent R10 wall (after all the
>>> thermal bridging at studs partions and floors) and an airtightness probably
>>> in the 2-5 ACG at 50 range, then ripping apart the entire interior is the cost.
>>> Removing the exterior siding is also a lot of disruption but the disruption
>>> is outdoors.  Good design will allow you to get exceptional airtightness,
>>> adding just 2² of insulation will get you the same R-10, and you will be
>>> able to improve water control so that the house framing lasts a very long
>>> time.  Add 4² of, say, rockwool/EPS and you get R20, real R-value (nothing
>>> in the studspace) or drill holes in exterior sheathing, blow in cellulose,
>>> add 4² of rockwool/ EPS and you are now close to real R-30.
>>> With the reliable and high airtightness, and the uniform high R-value you
>>> can now heat or cool this place with small and simple HVAC, and not have to
>>> think about upgrading again for another long timeŠ
>>> In my experience, the performance of the between studs retrofits is always
>>> significant less than an exterior wrap, and the difference matters to
>>> occupant comfort and energy use in a very noticeable way.
>>> I guess, though, I am just another design professional in my young 40¹s  J  
>>>  
>>> John
>>>  
>>> From: Greenbuilding [mailto:greenbuilding-bounces at lists.bioenergylists.org]
>>> On Behalf Of Sacie Lambertson
>>> Sent: March 16, 2016 21:43
>>> To: Greenbuilding <Greenbuilding at lists.bioenergylists.org>
>>> Subject: [Greenbuilding] best practice
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> A good guy and relatively young architect (in his 40s, 'young' by my
>>> standards), tells me it is not worth taking off the siding of an old 1883
>>> house to add insulation and an air space to the outside.  He says the added
>>> expense is not worth the additional insulation. That the extra R-value above
>>> R 23 in walls is thermodynamically not money well spent as long as the house
>>> is very tightly constructed in the retro-fit.
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> The siding is original and in very good shape.  The interior has full
>>> dimensioned 2x4 walls.  The rooms are too small for me to want to build a
>>> double wall on the interior.
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> What he suggests I do is simply used closed cell foam between the wall
>>> framing.
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> I would appreciate your comments please.
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Sacie
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
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>>  
>> 
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