[Greenbuilding] Residing a home in Minnesota

[home-nrg at dnaco.net]

Tom,

Since you have already used Joe's book, have you checked his website 
(buildingscience.com) lately?
If not, I suggest you look at his current thinking on what constitutes 
a "perfect wall".  He is continuously evolving his thinking - & still 
my trusted teacher.

Specifically, look at the existing layers in the wall, with an eye to 
drying potential, both to the inside and to the outside.  That 
interior vapor barrier is probably going to limit your options.  
Minnesota has been one of the areas in which experimenting, teaching 
and applying building science, so there's probably a better chance 
that the interior vapor barrier might have been done better than most, 
but 1982 is very early.

If it's plastic, cringe. In thirty years of testing and trying to 
convince builders to avoid the worst pitfalls, I have never seen one 
done well enough to trust it myself - much less trust it over time.

Since maintaining a good drying potential will probably be hard 
without stripping the drywall and reassembling the wall completely, 
Add enough insulation to protect the framing and insulation from 
getting to dewpoint temperatures.  If you can't control moisture flow, 
control it's state.

Were I you, I would, assuming that if the siding is rotting, the 
subsiding is likely also in trouble and may need replacement as well,

1) Find an energy rater (check the RESNET site; they're listed by 
state and locality.  Again, I'd expect them to be easy to find in 
Minnesota)to work with, and back stop, you.
2) inspect the existing insulation to be sure it fits snugly on all 
sides and is cut to fit around electrical boxes and other things in 
the wall; add a layer to the exterior, to assure full contact with the 
siding.
3) depending on the amount of access you have, I'd probably remove 
batts and re-install them to be sure of full contact against the 
drywall/VB, and to the subsiding. If no access, file that away for 
whenever you work on/replace drywall;

(Assuming the subsiding is good, 1&2 are largely my idealism at work).
4) I think adding a layer of continuous sheet foam, over the 
subsiding, is basic - but for the drying issue.  As is standing the 
siding off the drain plane on thin verticals (or Joe's current 
alternative - I haven't re-read his perfect wall in a while (got to do 
that - thanks for the reminder). Taped - all 6 sides of every sheet - 
the foam can serve as both drain plane and air barrier.

You've read Joe, so I'm redundant, but for the record, the problem 
with interior vapor barriers, is that it's impossible to install them 
(in the real world) without flaws and leaks (which tend to develop 
over time anyway).  They function as one-way air/moisture valves.
I'd still air seal the drywall & trim as well as I could, because air 
barriers ARE good; both feasible & renewable, if on the interior 
surface.

Forgive my running on, Hope it's ofg some use.

Bob Klahn
YSBS in SW Ohio




I




On Monday 12/03/2018 at 4:06 pm, John Salmen  wrote:
>
>
> Hi
> First thing is figure out why the original siding is rotted and fix 
> that (leaks, ground splashback, exposure, etc).
> Btwn 4 and 5 should be a rainscreen of some sort
> If a rainscreen is installed then fiberboard might be acceptable 
> (condensation issues with metal siding could cause some issues with 
> the rainscreen contact area)
>
>
>
> From: Greenbuilding 
> [mailto:greenbuilding-bounces at lists.bioenergylists.org] On Behalf Of 
> Tom & Deb Wiprud
> Sent: Monday, March 12, 2018 12:55 PM
> To: greenbuilding at lists.bioenergylists.org
> Subject: [Greenbuilding] Residing a home in Minnesota
>
>
>
>
> I have a question for this group.   I am purchasing a 1982 rambler 
> with 2x6 walls and a walk out basement.  The siding on there now is 
> Masonite colorloc fiberboard siding.  It is original siding with no 
> maintenance done to it, and has rot and needs to be replaced.  I plan 
> on using Edco steel siding. I will have a contractor do the residing, 
> but I want to be sure it is done right, not the way the contractor has 
> always done it.
>
>     My question is what is the proper way to proceed with this 
> project?  Could someone tell me what should I look for and how to make 
> sure it is done correctly.  Here is how it is made, from the inside to 
> the outside..
>
>          1. sheetrock
>
>          2. vapor barrier
>
>          3. fiberglass batt insulation
>
>          4. fiberboard or plywood (not sure yet)
>
>          5, colorloc siding
>
>  Should any more insulation be installed or a house wrap installed?  
> Any other ideas that I missed to make it a little more energy 
> efficient?      Thanks  Tom
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