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The building science guys took on the question of mold/mildew,
damage, removal, etc. This is what I remember (I recolmmend
double-checking, given the seriousness of the situation).<br>
<br>
3 things:<br>
<br>
1. the mildew can be removed with soap and hot water, maybe a
brush. Wear a respirator (follow the EPA spec which focuses on
protection of the worker), done.<br>
<br>
2. let it dry, then seal it up. <br>
<br>
3. mildew and mold do not attack wood structure significantly; rot
does. Rot is actually an organism designation, as in "rots an
smuts", typically thought of attacking crops.<br>
<br>
4. IF YOU DO NOT FIX THE MOISTURE SOURCE IN THE ATTIC, the mildew
will reoccur, this time on the foam and available wood. Getting
above the dewpoint may not do the trick, since we are talking about
mildew forming in April, not January...meaning the vapor load
(volume) is likely the problem, not the dew point per se. If they
think the moisture is from outside, then the foam might do it.
BUT...if it is flow from the interior (basement, wherever) then the
foam may not fix it...so seal the attic plate...<br>
<br>
My 2 cents,<br>
Brian<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
On 10/10/10 8:26 AM, George Tremblay wrote:
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<div> An acquaintance in southern RI suffered substantial
mold/mildew problems in the wake of torrential rains and
consequent flooding in this region last Spring. The damage has
been repaired in all areas of their home except the attic, where
there may have been some leakage, and where there has certainly
been a longstanding moisture problem. This is a standard
split level ranch, with partial cathedral ceiling and otherwise
what was intended to be an unheated attic. As we all know,
these attics are often subject to a lot of air leakage, and this
one is neither well sealed from the conditioned space, nor well
ventilated. The homeowner needs to either create the proper
vented, unconditioned attic, or switch to an unventilated roof
assembly. There is no ductwork in the attic, so they could
reasonably go with either option. Here, though, is the question
I want to pose to you: if they were to choose an unventilated
attic and spray closed cell foam against the interior of the
roof sheathing and around truss chords, is there any need to
treat the heavily mildewed sheathing first? If so, any
suggestions about appropriate treatment? The homeowner is being
deluged with conflicting recommendations from moisture
remediation outfits. One contractor recommended complete
replacement of the 8-year-old asphalt
shingle roof, which does not appear damaged but they would
replace the mildewed sheathing at the same time. </div>
<br>
<div> Thanks, as always, for any advice. </div>
<br>
<div> George Tremblay </div>
<div> Troy, NH </div>
<br>
<br>
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