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<p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 color=navy face=Arial><span style='font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:navy'>I can third that recommendation. Our
millwork shop primarily uses strip laminated pine or maple (usually 2”
strips glued to form panels) for most cabinetry or drawers and occasionally
plywood if additional stability is needed (full drawer banks, etc.). <o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 color=navy face=Arial><span style='font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:navy'><o:p> </o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 color=navy face=Arial><span style='font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:navy'>Butcher block is a good counter surface
for dry areas that can be used well and refinished as needed. I like tile
because it is durable without needing any finish (other than grout lines). The
shop has done a lot of concrete counters and they are a lot of work and not
durable and I am not keen on doing any more. Stone (granite) is decent but
needs a finish unless you are ok with it degrading naturally. Composites tend
to scratch easily (can be refinished … but people seem a little disappointed
over time with the maintenance). A mixture of surfaces for the purpose is good
(nothing like rolling dough on the right marble).<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
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<p class=MsoAutoSig><u><font size=3 color=green face="Gill Sans MT"><span
style='font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Gill Sans MT";color:green'>JOHN SALMEN
ENVIRONMENTAL DESIGN<o:p></o:p></span></font></u></p>
<p class=MsoAutoSig><st1:Street w:st="on"><st1:address w:st="on"><i><font
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font-family:"Gill Sans MT";color:black;font-style:italic'>4465 UPHILL RD</span></font></i></st1:address></st1:Street><i><font
size=2 color=black face="Gill Sans MT"><span style='font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:"Gill Sans MT";color:black;font-style:italic'>,. <st1:City w:st="on"><st1:place
w:st="on">DUNCAN</st1:place></st1:City>, B.C. <st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place
w:st="on">CANADA</st1:place></st1:country-region>, V9L 6M7<o:p></o:p></span></font></i></p>
<p class=MsoAutoSig><i><font size=2 color=black face="Gill Sans MT"><span
style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Gill Sans MT";color:black;font-style:italic'>PH
250 748 7672 FAX 250 748 7612 CELL 250 246 8541<o:p></o:p></span></font></i></p>
<p class=MsoAutoSig><st1:PersonName w:st="on"><i><font size=2 color=black
face="Gill Sans MT"><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Gill Sans MT";
color:black;font-style:italic'>terrain@shaw.ca</span></font></i></st1:PersonName><i><font
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<p class=MsoNormal><b><font size=2 face=Tahoma><span lang=EN-US
style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Tahoma;font-weight:bold'>From:</span></font></b><font
size=2 face=Tahoma><span lang=EN-US style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Tahoma'>
greenbuilding-bounces@lists.bioenergylists.org
[mailto:greenbuilding-bounces@lists.bioenergylists.org] <b><span
style='font-weight:bold'>On Behalf Of </span></b>Chris Koehn<br>
<b><span style='font-weight:bold'>Sent:</span></b> October 24, 2010 2:37 PM<br>
<b><span style='font-weight:bold'>To:</span></b> Greenbuilding@bioenergylists.org<br>
<b><span style='font-weight:bold'>Subject:</span></b> Re: [Greenbuilding] MDF
vs Particleboard vs Whatever</span></font><span lang=EN-US><o:p></o:p></span></p>
</div>
<p class=MsoNormal><font size=3 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:
12.0pt'><o:p> </o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><font size=3 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:
12.0pt'>I'll second the recommendation for using pine boards for cabinets,
provided your configuration and availability are non-issues. Look for
well-sawn, well-dried boards. Edge glue with biscuits for wider panels and for
stability.<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
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<p class=MsoNormal><font size=3 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:
12.0pt'>I prefer plywood for cases, as I find it to be stronger than MDF or
particleboard, hold fasteners well, and it's less dusty to work than MDF for
sure. <o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
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<p class=MsoNormal><font size=3 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:
12.0pt'>I recently tried to get 3 different cabinet makers to quote a project
with plywood and was turned down; common complaint was that they're all tooled
up for particleboard and couldn't switch (at the commercial level different
blades are used).<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
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<p class=MsoNormal><font size=3 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:
12.0pt'>That said, I am impressed with some of the fittings available now for
work in particleboard. Say what you will about Ikea their knock-down hardware
rocks.<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
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<p class=MsoNormal><font size=3 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:
12.0pt'><o:p> </o:p></span></font></p>
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<p class=MsoNormal><font size=3 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:
12.0pt'>I once built counters for a home from recycled bowling alley. All
tight, VG yellow pine (often available in maple as well), very high quality, 2
1/2" thick as I recall. The lanes I got (salvaged after a fire, couple bucks
a running foot) were t&g and heavily spiked together with Ardox nails,
which was a bit of trouble to reconfigure and cut sink holes through. I've
heard tell of others line boring and installing threaded rod to keep it snug
and flat. I faced all the edges with a contrasting wood (walnut).<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
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<p class=MsoNormal><font size=3 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:
12.0pt'>Once installed the bowling alley responds well to sanding and finishing
with butcher block oil, or a urethane if you want to go that route.<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
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<p class=MsoNormal><font size=3 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:
12.0pt'>In the same home I used salvaged cabinet doors from the 1930's
(replaced by my dad in the 60's with flush plywood and stuffed into the furnace
room for 40 years...). These were made of old growth white pine, very well
made, solid raised panel. I made cabinets to fit the doors. <o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
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<p class=MsoNormal><font size=3 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:
12.0pt'>I have a few photos lurking around here somewhere I can post if
interested.<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
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12.0pt'><o:p> </o:p></span></font></p>
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<p class=MsoNormal><font size=3 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:
12.0pt'>Chris Koehn<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
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<p class=MsoNormal><font size=3 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:
12.0pt'>TimberGuides<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
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