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<p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D'>I think I found the absolute perfect counter top.
Soapstone. Not the soft soapstone that is available locally (too bad…!)
because it is too soft, but architectural grade soapstone, which
(unfortunately) comes from Brazil. I googled “soapstone remnants”
and found a shop in Rocklin (No. Calif) that had some. It has the same qualities
of marble, such as for rolling out dough, it does NOT need to be sealed (although
you can put mineral oil on it, if you want to make it shiny, but it isn’t
necessary.). Hot pots are no problem, and so far no scratches. I
have 20” pieces on either side of my gas stove top, and they are
fabulous! Tile for the backsplash, but I really like the solid surface
for the counter top, because of no grout lines. Also, NO LABOR to put it
in. Just apply a line of caulking, and put it down. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D'>Kathy Cochran<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D'>San Andreas, CA 95249<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
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<p class=MsoNormal><b><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'>From:</span></b><span
style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'>
greenbuilding-bounces@lists.bioenergylists.org
[mailto:greenbuilding-bounces@lists.bioenergylists.org] <b>On Behalf Of </b>JOHN
SALMEN<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Sunday, October 24, 2010 9:02 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> 'Chris Koehn'; Greenbuilding@bioenergylists.org<br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Greenbuilding] MDF vs Particleboard vs Whatever<o:p></o:p></span></p>
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<p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><span lang=EN-CA style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";
color:navy'>I can third that recommendation. Our millwork shop primarily uses
strip laminated pine or maple (usually 2” strips glued to form panels)
for most cabinetry or drawers and occasionally plywood if additional stability
is needed (full drawer banks, etc.). <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><span lang=EN-CA style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";
color:navy'><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><span lang=EN-CA style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";
color:navy'>Butcher block is a good counter surface for dry areas that can be
used well and refinished as needed. I like tile because it is durable without
needing any finish (other than grout lines). The shop has done a lot of
concrete counters and they are a lot of work and not durable and I am not keen
on doing any more. Stone (granite) is decent but needs a finish unless you are
ok with it degrading naturally. Composites tend to scratch easily (can be
refinished … but people seem a little disappointed over time with the
maintenance). A mixture of surfaces for the purpose is good (nothing like
rolling dough on the right marble).<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><span lang=EN-CA style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";
color:navy'><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><span lang=EN-CA style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";
color:navy'><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<div>
<p class=MsoAutoSig><u><span lang=EN-CA style='font-family:"Gill Sans MT","sans-serif";
color:green'>JOHN SALMEN ENVIRONMENTAL DESIGN<o:p></o:p></span></u></p>
<p class=MsoAutoSig><i><span lang=EN-CA style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:
"Gill Sans MT","sans-serif";color:black'>4465 UPHILL RD,. DUNCAN, B.C.
CANADA, V9L 6M7<o:p></o:p></span></i></p>
<p class=MsoAutoSig><i><span lang=EN-CA style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:
"Gill Sans MT","sans-serif";color:black'>PH 250 748 7672 FAX 250 748 7612 CELL
250 246 8541<o:p></o:p></span></i></p>
<p class=MsoAutoSig><i><span lang=EN-CA style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:
"Gill Sans MT","sans-serif";color:black'>terrain@shaw.ca<o:p></o:p></span></i></p>
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<p class=MsoNormal><span lang=EN-CA style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";
color:navy'><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
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<p class=MsoNormal><b><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'>From:</span></b><span
style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'>
greenbuilding-bounces@lists.bioenergylists.org [mailto:greenbuilding-bounces@lists.bioenergylists.org]
<b>On Behalf Of </b>Chris Koehn<br>
<b>Sent:</b> October 24, 2010 2:37 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> Greenbuilding@bioenergylists.org<br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Greenbuilding] MDF vs Particleboard vs Whatever</span><o:p></o:p></p>
</div>
<p class=MsoNormal><span lang=EN-CA><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><span lang=EN-CA>I'll second the recommendation for using
pine boards for cabinets, provided your configuration and availability are
non-issues. Look for well-sawn, well-dried boards. Edge glue with biscuits for
wider panels and for stability.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<div>
<p class=MsoNormal><span lang=EN-CA>I prefer plywood for cases, as I find it to
be stronger than MDF or particleboard, hold fasteners well, and it's less dusty
to work than MDF for sure. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
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<p class=MsoNormal><span lang=EN-CA>I recently tried to get 3 different cabinet
makers to quote a project with plywood and was turned down; common complaint
was that they're all tooled up for particleboard and couldn't switch (at the
commercial level different blades are used).<o:p></o:p></span></p>
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<div>
<p class=MsoNormal><span lang=EN-CA>That said, I am impressed with some of the
fittings available now for work in particleboard. Say what you will about Ikea
their knock-down hardware rocks.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
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<p class=MsoNormal><span lang=EN-CA><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
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<p class=MsoNormal><span lang=EN-CA>I once built counters for a home from
recycled bowling alley. All tight, VG yellow pine (often available in maple as
well), very high quality, 2 1/2" thick as I recall. The lanes I got
(salvaged after a fire, couple bucks a running foot) were t&g and heavily
spiked together with Ardox nails, which was a bit of trouble to reconfigure and
cut sink holes through. I've heard tell of others line boring and installing
threaded rod to keep it snug and flat. I faced all the edges with a contrasting
wood (walnut).<o:p></o:p></span></p>
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<p class=MsoNormal><span lang=EN-CA>Once installed the bowling alley responds
well to sanding and finishing with butcher block oil, or a urethane if you want
to go that route.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
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<div>
<p class=MsoNormal><span lang=EN-CA>In the same home I used salvaged cabinet
doors from the 1930's (replaced by my dad in the 60's with flush plywood and
stuffed into the furnace room for 40 years...). These were made of old growth
white pine, very well made, solid raised panel. I made cabinets to fit the
doors. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=MsoNormal><span lang=EN-CA>I have a few photos lurking around here
somewhere I can post if interested.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
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<p class=MsoNormal><span lang=EN-CA><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
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<div>
<p class=MsoNormal><span lang=EN-CA>Chris Koehn<o:p></o:p></span></p>
</div>
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<p class=MsoNormal><span lang=EN-CA>TimberGuides<o:p></o:p></span></p>
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<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-bottom:12.0pt'><span lang=EN-CA><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
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