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<title>Re: [Greenbuilding] Timbersil (and alternatives to)</title>
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<p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D'>One of the main reasons for using a manufactured silicate
treated wood product is to either satisfy a code requirement for a preservative
treated wood (a requirement in Canada for termite zones) or to comply with a
class I or A fire rating. Unlikely an inspector will take your word for
it. You may want to treat wood yourself for your own peace of mind but then the
question becomes how effective is the treatment?<o:p></o:p></span></p>
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<p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D'>It may be effective for exposed wood but it can also leach out
of the wood. I could see using it to improve termite resistance but since I couldn’t
rely on it I would use some other kind of barrier.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D'>I use it and other silicates in paint mixtures (clay, lime, casein
kind of things) and have used it on concrete. I could see using it as a surface
hardener for some wood but since it affects colour and reacts with some paints
and finishes I probably would use a harder wood to begin with. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
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color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D'>I think it is a pretty useful product and I use it when I have
no choice (building sills in some situations) but it is a product that
encourages people to put wood where it probably shouldn’t be used. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
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<p class=MsoNormal><b><span lang=EN-US style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:
"Tahoma","sans-serif"'>From:</span></b><span lang=EN-US style='font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'>
greenbuilding-bounces@lists.bioenergylists.org
[mailto:greenbuilding-bounces@lists.bioenergylists.org] <b>On Behalf Of </b>RT<br>
<b>Sent:</b> April 8, 2011 2:15 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> Green Building<br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Greenbuilding] Timbersil (and alternatives to)<o:p></o:p></span></p>
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<p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p>
<p><span style='font-size:10.0pt'>On Fri, 08 Apr 2011 15:17:00 -0400, Alan
Abrams <br>
<alan@abramsdesignbuild.com> wrote:<br>
><br>
> is this material crisp and stable enough for detailed cornice work?<br>
><br>
> On Fri, Apr 8, 2011 at 11:05 AM, Sigi Koko
<sigikoko@earthlink.net> <br>
> wrote:<br>
<br>
>> Timbersil<br>
<br>
>> In terms of ordering, if there isn't a<br>
>> distributor near you, you should be able to approach a local lumber
mill<br>
>> and order through them.<br>
<br>
<br>
If the Timbersil (TM) product isn't locally produced then it would seem
to <br>
make sense to use local lumber and simply soak it in a saturated solution <br>
of sodium silicate which is relatively easy to make out of readily <br>
available materials (ie water, silica, sodium hydroxide), and then
sticker <br>
the treated wood until it has dried.<br>
<br>
That way, one would be able to use locally-harvested salvaged lumber and <br>
you'd have an up-close/personal view of the consequences of your material <br>
choice (ie sodium hydroxide isn't exactly friendly stuff). In NYC,
that <br>
lumber would likely be pallet wood, wooden pallets being a major disposal <br>
problem in urban centres. (This being the *Green* building list, not the <br>
Home Despot building list).<br>
<br>
But speaking of fancy cornices...<br>
<br>
Rather than build it up out of a gazillion pieces of increasingly-rare <br>
clear lumber, perhaps it might be made of cement or lime plaster,
possibly <br>
with pigment integrated into the plaster mix so that painting would never <br>
be required , and with whatever lightweight aggregates and fibrous <br>
admixtures your heart desires to achieve the performance characteristics <br>
you'd like ?<br>
<br>
The simplest way would be to make a scraper that is cut to the profile of <br>
the proposed cornice and pull it along the still-plastic mud, a process <br>
not unlike what carpenters used to do when making wooden mouldings and <br>
cornices, with a series of moulding planes, often self-made. (Yes, been <br>
there, done that.)<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
--<br>
=== * ===<br>
Rob Tom<br>
Kanata, Ontario, Canada<br>
< A r c h i L o g i c at Y a h o o dot c a ><br>
manually winnow the chaff from my edress if you hit "reply"<br>
<br>
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