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<DIV><SPAN class=468494623-22042011><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff
size=2>Rewiring the water heater would surely have to be a pretty pointless
exercise. The only way that that could make a savings is by giving you
colder water and, if that was the goal, you could have achieved it by less
stressful means, like using a lower thermostat. Or indeed, install a secondary
control timer thereby allowing less time for proper recovery, which may
possibly be what you are doing now. I say "may possibly" because I suspect
that putting the timer on the water heater was a complete waste of (ahem!) time,
and the real savings from that execise are all down to the fridge. If that is
the case, the same result could have been achieved by by putting the fridge on
the water heater circuit. I haven't heard of anybody doing that but I imagine it
would be kosher. </FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=468494623-22042011><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff
size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=468494623-22042011><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2>Seeing
that you are now used to a bit of wiring, and presumably know you way around
the HWS connections, and if your timer is a mechanical one, you might find
it useful to wire it in parrallel with the element. By doing that, the water
heater controls the timer rather than the timer, ostensibly,
controlling the water heater. You may then be able to work out how long the
water heater is on and, more importantly, when it is on. The last, of
course, may be answered by you local electrician, or even the supply
authority. </FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=468494623-22042011><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff
size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=468494623-22042011><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2>Even
in the unlikely event that you have done what you set out to do, your timer
pattern doesn't simulate 375 continuous watts it simply does what it it is set
it to do, which is allow the element to run at 750 watts at less times that it
did before. It is not the same thing but may be (minimally) advantageous.
</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=468494623-22042011><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff
size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=468494623-22042011><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2>
<DIV><SPAN class=468494623-22042011><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2>Nobody
seems to want to answer my " are you checking about legionella?" questions ad
nauseam but, if you are running colder water, I feel I should raise this matter
once (sigh) again.</FONT></SPAN></DIV></FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=468494623-22042011><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff
size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2><SPAN class=468494623-22042011>After
all that, I have just realised that our HWS timer is pretty close to
the fridge power point . I will look at having it control our fridge
too. </SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<P><FONT size=2>Nick Pyner<BR><BR>Dee Why NSW </FONT></P>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=ltr style="MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV class=OutlookMessageHeader dir=ltr align=left><FONT face=Tahoma
size=2>-----Original Message-----<BR><B>From:</B>
greenbuilding-bounces@lists.bioenergylists.org
[mailto:greenbuilding-bounces@lists.bioenergylists.org]<B>On Behalf Of
</B>Richard Garbary<BR></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV>Biggest consumption is the water heater which I rewired from 240/3000
watt to 120/750 watt. This was simple to do (but took a lot of nerve!). By
connecting 120 volt to existing 240 volt water heater the elements output 1/4
the wattage. A timer switches on and off as follows: 21:30on - 22:30off,
23:30on - 24:30off, 1:30on - 2:30off, 3:30on - 4:30off, 5:30on - 6:30off. This
simulates 375 watt continuous on for the water heater as per the graph. Fridge
is on a timer also that simulates this pattern. Fridge does not come on at all
during the peak (red) periods; only green and yellow. This creates a very flat
consumption pattern over 24 hour period.</DIV>
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