<html xmlns:v="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:vml" xmlns:o="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" xmlns:w="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:word" xmlns:m="http://schemas.microsoft.com/office/2004/12/omml" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/TR/REC-html40"><head><meta http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; charset=utf-8"><meta name=Generator content="Microsoft Word 12 (filtered medium)"><style><!--
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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=EN-CA link=blue vlink=purple><div class=WordSection1><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'>Seems the overriding concern with moisture in the roof assembly is interior air leakage finding some path where it can condense. The spray foam ‘should have’ air sealed but 2x6 framing is subject to movement and foam can separate and shrink and crack. One option might be another layer of spray foam to seal or if you don’t want to get a contractor back for that - put any type of insulation and then an air barrier. A requirement for any ceiling here is a fire requirement which could be 1.5” t&g or a layer of drywall before the wood t&g. The drywall can be detailed as a decent air barrier with seams taped and gaskets around pipes and electrical. <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'>If you are not planning on putting up gypsum or some other barrier then I would carefully inspect and reseal the sprayed ceiling as needed with canned spray foam and taper fill the perimeter edges and caulk seal or foam gasket any wiring or pipe penetrations through the foam and then put any insulation below. As for the ‘any’ insulation I would not use a batt insulation where the fibres are brittle and pose a lung hazard (glass and rockwool) as they will migrate into the living space thru the t&g. If you could find some wool or wool/poly batts they would be great. Nice thing about the wood ceiling is it can deal with small amounts of interior moisture and dry into the interior.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'>John Salmen<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><div><div style='border:none;border-top:solid #B5C4DF 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0cm 0cm 0cm'><p class=MsoNormal><b><span lang=EN-US style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'>From:</span></b><span lang=EN-US style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'> greenbuilding-bounces@lists.bioenergylists.org [mailto:greenbuilding-bounces@lists.bioenergylists.org] <b>On Behalf Of </b>tom@honeychrome.com<br><b>Sent:</b> May-10-11 6:19 PM<br><b>To:</b> greenbuilding@lists.bioenergylists.org<br><b>Subject:</b> Re: [Greenbuilding] spray foam/fiberglas<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><div><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Verdana","sans-serif";color:black'>Thanks Bob and Ron for the responses. Yeah, when I had the foam installed I should have told them to fill the cavities completely and paid the price, but they were 'the experts' and told me it wasn't worth it. It didn't really make sense to me at the time, but I didn't follow through. I don't plan on selling this house, so resale and short-term investment recovery isn't a priority. I haven't installed the ceiling yet, so I can still add insulation before I put the paneling up. The ceiling is t&g pine boards, so I could install most of it up to the peak and blow in cellulose from the top, or put in fiberglas bats, though the spaces are somewhat irregular. Seems like the cel. might be the better option. But there is also the moisture issue. Even pretty well sealed, it is rather dry in the house in the winter (wood-stove heated) and the roof isn't vented (which is why blown-in closed cell was installed). Will filling in the space left with fiberglas or cellulose create a situation where moisture can collect?<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div></body></html>