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Bobbi,<br>
I agree that blowing cellulose into the walls and ceiling are your
best initial reinsulation options. With caveats.<br>
<br>
1) Blowing the attic can be an easy DIY - assuming that you have
good access and that it's all open, flat attic - no kneewalls or
"slopes" (the top floor ceiling that follows the rafter line. If
it's a walk-up attic, so much the better. Is any of it floored for
storage?<br>
<br>
2) Prep work to seal <u>all</u> penetrations of the ceiling plane.
This will require digging through/displacing the existing insulation
to find them and to get sealing access. It's labor-intensive, and
in that heat best done in the winter or on rainy days. However, it
is <strong>essential</strong> to avoid losing much of the
insulation value you (will have) worked hard for. (I know of no
insulation contractor in this market willing to even consider doing
it, even though - or perhaps because - it could easily double the
cost of the job.) After that, adding insulation is easy.<br>
<br>
3) I agree that you would be wise to blow the exterior wall cavities
yourself - unless you can find an insulation contractor - and, more
critically, installer who is familiar with dense-pack blowing
techniques and will include in the contract assurance that all
cavities were located and filled- and that all were filled to
dense-pack densities. Offering to verify with an infrared scan, or
agreeing to an independent one you contract yourself, is a strong
plus. If they don't offer one, you should find someone who will do
one independently.<br>
If you decide on - or are forced into - doing it yourself, email me;
I'll be happy to send instructions or talk you through it.<br>
<br>
4) Look for an Energy Rater in your area, with either RESNET or BPI
certification, to run a blower door test on the house to locate the
air leaks; a house that age is very likely to have lots and
controlling them is critical for controlling comfort, costs, and the
mold potential. The Rater could also do a full analysis to
determine what the "design load" (how big an A/C you really need) is
- and what it will be after you re-insulate and air tighten. Ask
your HVAC dealer if he ran "ACCA Manuals J, D, and S on the house to
determine the size units (condenser and evaporator) you 'need'; the
duct sizing and reductions for the proper delivery flows and what
the design flows are for each room. In my experience, most don't;
it's too time-consuming so they rely on "rules of thumb". The only
thing the ROT's will guarantee is that you will not get the most
efficient installation. <br>
<br>
Too large an A/C unit will keep you cool, but will not run long
enough each time it cycles to adequately dehumidify. When allergies
and mold are concerns, this is critical. Mold, and a number of
other allergen producers just love the elevated humidity...<br>
<br>
I don't know what your cost and completion limitations are, but I
always advise clients to plan these upgrades in stages - but never
to do something that will have to be undone, or redone, to implement
the next stage. Blowing the walls <em>and</em> adding a layer of
wall/insulation can make an expensive job astronomical. The sheath
wall can be added as a later stage.<br>
<br>
There, I've slid into loggaria again. Sorry,all. But simple advice
can so easily get twisted. Besides, I avoided cleaning up the
kitchen for a bit. For that, I thank you.<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
On 6/1/2011 5:07 PM, Bobbi Chukran wrote:
<blockquote
cite="mid:598D1364-ADF3-4BC1-ADC4-1BCD3AB1B758@bobbichukran.com"
type="cite">I'll bet he didn't live in Central TX, though. :-)
<br>
<br>
It was 90 there yesterday, and is supposed to be 100 for most of
this week. Even though that house was built to be cooler *in the
time it was built* the climate has changed.
<br>
<br>
There are also health issues to address, such as the high mold
counts here and allergies.
<br>
<br>
bobbi c.
<br>
<br>
On Jun 1, 2011, at 2:25 PM, Reuben Deumling wrote:
<br>
<br>
<blockquote type="cite">I once had a professor who asserted that
the presence of a compressor AC in a house was a sign of poor
design. In other words there were (in principle) ways around
using AC in all climates>>>
<br>
</blockquote>
<br>
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