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<DIV><FONT size=4 face="Goudy Old Style">I think Bob has some very healthy
advice there Bobbi. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=4 face="Goudy Old Style"></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=4 face="Goudy Old Style">Do the insulation/isolation work first
to get the load down, then size the system appropriately. The smaller the
better, usually. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=4 face="Goudy Old Style"></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=4 face="Goudy Old Style">Ron</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=4 face="Goudy Old Style"></FONT> </DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="FONT: 10pt arial; BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=Home-NRG@dnaco.net href="mailto:Home-NRG@dnaco.net">Bob Klahn</A>
</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A
title=greenbuilding@lists.bioenergylists.org
href="mailto:greenbuilding@lists.bioenergylists.org">Green Building</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Wednesday, June 01, 2011 10:10
PM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: [Greenbuilding] New HVAC
unit</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>Bobbi,<BR>I agree that blowing cellulose into the walls and
ceiling are your best initial reinsulation options. With caveats.<BR><BR>1)
Blowing the attic can be an easy DIY - assuming that you have good access and
that it's all open, flat attic - no kneewalls or "slopes" (the top floor
ceiling that follows the rafter line. If it's a walk-up attic, so much
the better. Is any of it floored for storage?<BR><BR>2) Prep work to
seal <U>all</U> penetrations of the ceiling plane. This will require
digging through/displacing the existing insulation to find them and to get
sealing access. It's labor-intensive, and in that heat best done in the
winter or on rainy days. However, it is <STRONG>essential</STRONG> to
avoid losing much of the insulation value you (will have) worked hard
for. (I know of no insulation contractor in this market willing to even
consider doing it, even though - or perhaps because - it could easily double
the cost of the job.) After that, adding insulation is easy.<BR><BR>3) I
agree that you would be wise to blow the exterior wall cavities yourself -
unless you can find an insulation contractor - and, more critically, installer
who is familiar with dense-pack blowing techniques and will include in the
contract assurance that all cavities were located and filled- and that all
were filled to dense-pack densities. Offering to verify with an infrared
scan, or agreeing to an independent one you contract yourself, is a strong
plus. If they don't offer one, you should find someone who will do one
independently.<BR>If you decide on - or are forced into - doing it yourself,
email me; I'll be happy to send instructions or talk you through it.<BR><BR>4)
Look for an Energy Rater in your area, with either RESNET or BPI
certification, to run a blower door test on the house to locate the air leaks;
a house that age is very likely to have lots and controlling them is critical
for controlling comfort, costs, and the mold potential. The Rater could
also do a full analysis to determine what the "design load" (how big an A/C
you really need) is - and what it will be after you re-insulate and air
tighten. Ask your HVAC dealer if he ran "ACCA Manuals J, D, and S on the
house to determine the size units (condenser and evaporator) you 'need'; the
duct sizing and reductions for the proper delivery flows and what the design
flows are for each room. In my experience, most don't; it's too
time-consuming so they rely on "rules of thumb". The only thing the
ROT's will guarantee is that you will not get the most efficient installation.
<BR><BR>Too large an A/C unit will keep you cool, but will not run long enough
each time it cycles to adequately dehumidify. When allergies and mold
are concerns, this is critical. Mold, and a number of other allergen
producers just love the elevated humidity...<BR><BR>I don't know what your
cost and completion limitations are, but I always advise clients to plan these
upgrades in stages - but never to do something that will have to be undone, or
redone, to implement the next stage. Blowing the walls <EM>and</EM>
adding a layer of wall/insulation can make an expensive job
astronomical. The sheath wall can be added as a later
stage.<BR><BR>There, I've slid into loggaria again. Sorry,all. But
simple advice can so easily get twisted. Besides, I avoided cleaning up
the kitchen for a bit. For that, I thank you.<BR><BR><BR><BR>On 6/1/2011
5:07 PM, Bobbi Chukran wrote:
<BLOCKQUOTE cite=mid:598D1364-ADF3-4BC1-ADC4-1BCD3AB1B758@bobbichukran.com
type="cite">I'll bet he didn't live in Central TX, though. :-)
<BR><BR>It was 90 there yesterday, and is supposed to be 100 for most of
this week. Even though that house was built to be cooler *in the time
it was built* the climate has changed. <BR><BR>There are also health issues
to address, such as the high mold counts here and allergies. <BR><BR>bobbi
c. <BR><BR>On Jun 1, 2011, at 2:25 PM, Reuben Deumling wrote: <BR><BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE type="cite">I once had a professor who asserted that the
presence of a compressor AC in a house was a sign of poor design. In other
words there were (in principle) ways around using AC in all
climates>>>
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