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<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>I can't imagine the dark stains that are peeling up
are white based, but I'm no stain expert and (another problem) the contractor
refuses to tell me the brand/name of stain used (other than it's
water-based).</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>What do you mean "the concrete was never acid
etched before using the sealer"? I don't believe anything was done after
staining before sealing other than waiting a few days. What is the etching that
should have been done--how is it done, etc.? This could be useful in further
documenting the problems (since ultimately the contractor IS going to be paying
for my new floor, though probably not by their choice).</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>Also can you explain more about shot blasting? You
say it's more cost-effective, but how does it compare to grinding as far as time
involved, how much it's going to totally mess up my house, etc.? No one's
mentioned this yet but it sounds like something I should look into, especially
since sealer removal will be required whether I go with more concrete staining
or with tile (or something else I haven't yet considered). We're talking about
1500 sq. ft. in multiple rooms and hallways.</FONT></DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="FONT: 10pt arial; BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=andy@safebuildingsolutions.com
href="mailto:andy@safebuildingsolutions.com">Andrew Pace</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A
title=greenbuilding@lists.bioenergylists.org
href="mailto:greenbuilding@lists.bioenergylists.org">Green Building</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Wednesday, July 27, 2011 5:23
PM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: [Greenbuilding] Redoing all
floors</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV><FONT face=Arial><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 12px">Non-acid stains
like soy stains or polymer stains only sit on the surface and in some of the
macro-pores of the concrete. Acid stain works by chemically reacting
with the free lime in the concrete and the salts in the stain, to physically
alter the chemistry of the concrete, thus changing the color. The white
you see could be a white base stain, or, it could be that the concrete was
never acid etched before using the sealer. Acid etching removes the
“cream” off the surface of the concrete. This is the fine white or grey
powder that will eventually dust off the surface. Without removing the
cream, any coating or topical stain will eventually peel off the surface,
since its only sticking to dust. <BR><BR>Grinding and shot blasting are
two different ways to achieve the same end result. It its a large area,
shot blasting will be more cost effective and will require less prep before
the next coating is applied.<BR><BR><BR>Andrew Pace<BR>Green Design Center®
<BR>Waukesha, WI<BR><BR><BR><BR>On 7/27/11 5:05 PM, "Ktot (g)"
<ktottotc@gmail.com> wrote:<BR><BR></SPAN></FONT>
<BLOCKQUOTE><FONT face=Arial><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 12px">I have been told
water-based stain--which was used to get the mottled creative pattern that
was intended (without white blooms)--does not sink into the concrete like
acid-stain does. Either way, where the stain and sealer have pulled up,
there's plain white. It's chalky. Numerous concrete contractors had no idea
what that was, telling me my contractor must have done a white layer of
stain first, which I knew was not the case. One finally pointed out it's
calcium carbonate that chemically reacted to something (the diesel/propane
fuel? the exterior stain that was used indoors [as I later found out]?) That
makes sense to me as one gets white on the finger when rubbing those areas.
The white areas are all white--the stain has completely lifted up. So it
does not seem to have gone down into the concrete--unless there is more
under the calcium carbonate.<BR> <BR>Also I should have mentioned
earlier much of the sealer seems to have disappeared. When put down it was
very shiny (as it was supposed to remain) but now in many areas there
appears to be little or no sealer (this is from work done two months ago),
and one contractor commented the sealer is soft (vs. it supposedly the
hardest, most durable there is per my contractor who clearly misled me in
numerous ways).<BR> <BR>Per the sealer tech rep, the sealer does need
to be removed whether I go with concrete again or with tile. He seems to
lean towards grinding to remove it. Is that the same as the shot blast you
mention?<BR></SPAN></FONT></BLOCKQUOTE>
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