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I have build many tile countertops in my career. I have built
mortar beds, used Durock, Hardibacker and Wonderboard and set tile
directly on plywood. without exception every tile install I did
over plywood failed! I very strongly discourage this idea!
Eventually the grout cracks and water gets down into the plywood and
it swells and destroys the countertop.<br>
<br>
In the beginning you said you wanted to do tile and that will still
be the easiest and cheapest. If you stay away from the very hard
porcelain or vitrified tiles you should have no problem cutting
tiles with a snap cutter or a carborundum grit blade in a jig saw.<br>
<br>
My preference for tile counters is to put down a layer of 1/2 inch
Hardibacker Board using lots of screws and a layer of thin-set then
set the tiles on top of this again using thinset. This makes a very
strong and long lasting countertop. I have set tile directly on
good sheetrock walls for a backsplash and this works well as long as
the house doesn't move too much. Some re-caulking at the junction of
the backsplash and countertop may be needed. I have also used 1/4
inch backerboard on backsplashes. Then you can use thinset and
fiberglass mesh tape at the joint but you have to deal with the 1/4
inch edge at the top.<br>
<br>
Steve<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
On 7/27/11 6:12 AM, JOHN SALMEN wrote:
<blockquote cite="mid:008d01cc4c5e$d1dfbe80$759f3b80$@ca"
type="cite">
<pre wrap="">Depends what you mean about warpage. I've even had concrete counters warp
(deflect, bend, twist) - most materials move so it is a question of gluing,
screwing, nailing, supporting, blocking and sealing to provide support and
resist movement. Basic exterior 3/4" ply is pretty resistant to moisture and
moisture damage (can be wetted and dried numerous times without damage).
Before cement boards became common 1/2" exterior ply was the standard backer
for tile walls on premium projects. I would recommend stick with the ply and
tile plan and provide whatever additional support is needed underneath to
support the spans and make the material rigid. A thin layer of cement board
is excellent to use under the tile and is better around sink areas as a
substrate - bond it to the ply with tile mortar and screws (lap any seams in
the ply).
I also recommend butcher block counters. Surprisingly inexpensive natural
material that you can purchase by the foot, refinish numerous times by
sanding and oiling and takes on character as it gets burned and stained and
well used.
-----Original Message-----
From: <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:greenbuilding-bounces@lists.bioenergylists.org">greenbuilding-bounces@lists.bioenergylists.org</a>
[<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="mailto:greenbuilding-bounces@lists.bioenergylists.org">mailto:greenbuilding-bounces@lists.bioenergylists.org</a>] On Behalf Of Lynelle
Hamilton
Sent: July-26-11 6:29 PM
To: Green Building
Subject: Re: [Greenbuilding] Counters
The warping is noticeable, so I'm already replacing the ply. I'd have to
figure out how to keep any new ply from warping, though. What's the heat
resistance, do you know? Bamboo would be great for the edge.
Thanks, Jason!
Lynelle
On 26/07/2011 9:20 PM, Jason Holstine wrote:
</pre>
<blockquote type="cite">
<pre wrap="">How about Marmoleum sheet on that plywood (or, if it's warped, replace
the plywood for about 15 cents). Ol' fashioned, all-natural, easy to
clean, durable linoleum. Just glue it up on the ply. Material should
should be about $7/sf and if you're reasonably astute, could be DIY.
Biggest issue is your front edge-you'll probably want a different
material for the edge band, like a bamboo, wood, or metal.
On 7/26/11 9:00 PM, "Lynelle Hamilton" <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:lynelle@lahamilton.com"><lynelle@lahamilton.com></a> wrote:
Again, I ask the list for advice. I am now at the point of installing
kitchen counters. I have had plywood on the counters (3/4 overlaid
and
screwed to 3/8", as a substrate for tile, but have had warping
(I'm on
the water). I don't trust it for tile. I've been told others in
the area
have had this problem. They've generally solved it by installing
Arborite, something I am loathe to do.
That places me squarely in a quandary. I can't find reclaimed granite
in the size I need--the reclamation folks near me generally sell the
counters with the cabinets anyway. The budget will not allow for
"new"
granite and I want to use something that screws the earth less than
other options (particularly given that I've already wasted some
otherwise good plywood).
I am the installer, so it must be pretty simple.
Any creative ideas out there?
Thanks!
Lynelle
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