<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.01 Transitional//EN">
<html>
<head>
<meta content="text/html; charset=ISO-8859-1"
http-equiv="Content-Type">
<title></title>
</head>
<body text="#000000" bgcolor="#ffffff">
Sorry to have restated the obvious. I just n<small>oticed<small> </small></small>the
thread - and started at the most recent posting.<br>
<br>
One other thought though, on part of the original problem (based on
an assumption - always risky, so I'll check).<br>
If the canning pot is larger than your normal pots and pans (most
seem to be), could the key to the high CO production be that the
flame is impinging on ( flaring out across) the bottom of the pot?
This will tend to reduce the combustion efficiency (in extremes even
soot up the pot bottom,educe combustion efficiency and increase the
CO production.<br>
<br>
I'd expect the oven to be set to burn relatively efficiently, so we
don't hear of cooks keeling over, and produce less CO even when on
for longer times.<br>
<br>
All speculation, but I bit my boot so deeply on the last one, I had
<br>
Bob Klahn<br>
<blockquote
cite="mid:F3F91B2015A445BD8053984DAB1036E9@BWHPW7G71150MT"
type="cite">I actually watch them quite closely to keep them from
boiling over. The CO level goes way up before they do occasionally
boil over, however, definitely. The CO level goes up when the
flames are burning properly blue.
<br>
<br>
No way could I have the stove vented outside when the house was
built without huge additional cost--I had an expert builder and
confirmed this at the time. Thus the alternative, a vent with
carbon filter. No, it is not against code, at least not here,
definitely.
<br>
<br>
-----Original Message----- From: Corwyn
<br>
Sent: Friday, February 17, 2012 12:19 PM
<br>
To: <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:greenbuilding@lists.bioenergylists.org">greenbuilding@lists.bioenergylists.org</a>
<br>
Subject: Re: [Greenbuilding] Question on tight house, carbon
monoxide
<br>
<br>
On 2/17/2012 1:40 PM, KTOT (g) wrote:
<br>
<blockquote type="cite">
<br>
Every time I make soup or jams (or other canning which involves
<br>
sterilizing then heat processing the jars in boiling water),
both of
<br>
which involve boiling liquid for multiple hours, my digital CO
alarms
<br>
read above the safe levels so I end up opening doors, even on
cold
<br>
winter days and nights, to let the CO out. I do keep one alarm
near the
<br>
kitchen, but the one in the bedroom also gets very high
readings. These
<br>
are both brand-name, brand new CO alarms as well so I trust them
(plus
<br>
once when I forgot to check them, a regular CO alarm did go off
in the
<br>
same circumstances).
<br>
</blockquote>
<br>
My guess would be that those things are boiling over a bit and
adding a
<br>
bit of liquid water to the flames causing them to burn less
efficiently.
<br>
Do you occasionally see yellow flames? I see the same thing when
my
<br>
sweetie makes jam.
<br>
<br>
<blockquote type="cite">I do run the exhaust fan, which is the
kind that has a filter but is not
<br>
vented to the outside (due to the location of the stove and
fan).
<br>
</blockquote>
<br>
A vent fan not vented to the outside is useless as regards CO or
CO2.
<br>
<br>
<br>
Note that CO is result of incomplete burning, while CO2 is a
result of
<br>
complete burning. You do not want too high a concentration of
either.
<br>
<br>
I would recommend either a vent fan which actually vents to the
outside
<br>
(note in my very lax jurisdiction, what you have would be against
the
<br>
code), or an HRV or ERV with a boost switch near the stove.
<br>
<br>
Thank You Kindly,
<br>
<br>
Corwyn
<br>
<br>
</blockquote>
<br>
</body>
</html>