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<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=656270018-03042012><FONT color=#0000ff
size=2 face=Arial>You eat this stuff?</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=656270018-03042012><FONT color=#0000ff
size=2 face=Arial>Nasty!</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV align=left><FONT size=2 face=Arial>Regards,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV align=left><FONT size=2 face=Arial>Doug Lamb</FONT></DIV>
<DIV align=left><FONT size=2 face=Arial><A
href="mailto:douglaslamb@columbus.rr.com">douglaslamb@columbus.rr.com</A></FONT></DIV>
<DIV align=left><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV><BR>
<DIV dir=ltr lang=en-us class=OutlookMessageHeader align=left>
<HR tabIndex=-1>
<FONT size=2 face=Tahoma><B>From:</B>
greenbuilding-bounces@lists.bioenergylists.org
[mailto:greenbuilding-bounces@lists.bioenergylists.org] <B>On Behalf Of
</B>Reuben Deumling<BR><B>Sent:</B> Tuesday, April 03, 2012 1:40
PM<BR><B>To:</B> Green Building<BR><B>Subject:</B> Re: [Greenbuilding] sealing
plywood floor?<BR></FONT><BR></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>This is one of the succinct summaries of this sandwich:<BR><BR>
<DIV class=gmail_quote>---------- Forwarded message ----------<BR>From: <B
class=gmail_sendername>JOHN SALMEN</B> <SPAN dir=ltr><<A
href="mailto:terrain@shaw.ca">terrain@shaw.ca</A>></SPAN><BR>Date: Wed, Apr
20, 2011 at 9:18 PM<BR>Subject: Re: [Greenbuilding] building floor on top of
rigid foam... (basement/garage retrofit)<BR>To: <A
href="mailto:ArchiLogic@chaffyahoo.ca">ArchiLogic@chaffyahoo.ca</A>, Green
Building <<A
href="mailto:greenbuilding@lists.bioenergylists.org">greenbuilding@lists.bioenergylists.org</A>>,
<A
href="mailto:satjiwan@alumni.brandeis.edu">satjiwan@alumni.brandeis.edu</A><BR><BR><BR>
<DIV lang=EN-CA>
<DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri','sans-serif'; COLOR: #1f497d; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">I
missed this thread somehow. I can testify that putting a floor directly on eps
foam is a great system. I have done this in a number of renovations, new homes
and a school. The basic spec. is rigid eps board (minimum 4”) on a
level surface w/ t&g ply sheathing laminated directly to the foam with a
suitable adhesive. That is it. The level surface does not have to be
concrete – it can be a granular base (sand). </SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri','sans-serif'; COLOR: #1f497d; FONT-SIZE: 11pt"></SPAN> </P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri','sans-serif'; COLOR: #1f497d; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">The
real point of this approach is to avoid the use of concrete or in the case of
insulating on existing concrete to isolate from moisture and to minimize the use
of unnecessary materials. </SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri','sans-serif'; COLOR: #1f497d; FONT-SIZE: 11pt"></SPAN> </P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri','sans-serif'; COLOR: #1f497d; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">As
for materials the ‘suitable adhesive’ is generally specified as a polyurethane
foam adhesive (enerbond or equiv.). If the finished floor is to be ¾” solid wood
nailed - I specify a min. 5/8” t&g ply sheathing. If it is tile I
generally specify either a thickset mortar directly on the foam (w/reinf.) or an
additional layer of ½” ply laminated and fastened @ 3” o.c. I’ve found
that most contractors get the concept pretty quickly but the trick is that in
putting down the ply it needs to be flattened and weighted down while the
adhesive sets (concrete block, buckets with sand, etc...)</SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri','sans-serif'; COLOR: #1f497d; FONT-SIZE: 11pt"></SPAN> </P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri','sans-serif'; COLOR: #1f497d; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">For
your application I would eliminate any subfloor wood framing (sleepers). Waste
of time and material. eps boards can be ordered cut to the thickness needed for
the finished product. Using foam on an existing slab it is nice to have
additional thickness – 5-6” foam can span any deflections or defects in the
concrete. I would spot adhere the foam to the concrete. </SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri','sans-serif'; COLOR: #1f497d; FONT-SIZE: 11pt"></SPAN> </P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri','sans-serif'; COLOR: #1f497d; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">Essentially
the finished floor (eps and ply) is a weight bearing floating floor that can
carry standard interior partition loads well. It is a pretty nice
floor.</SPAN></P></DIV></DIV></DIV><BR><BR>
<DIV class=gmail_quote>On Tue, Apr 3, 2012 at 10:32 AM, Benjamin Pratt <SPAN
dir=ltr><<A
href="mailto:benjamin.g.pratt@gmail.com">benjamin.g.pratt@gmail.com</A>></SPAN>
wrote:<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="BORDER-LEFT: #ccc 1px solid; MARGIN: 0px 0px 0px 0.8ex; PADDING-LEFT: 1ex"
class=gmail_quote>wouldn't 1/2 plywood warp over time? I don't knwo the
procedure.<BR>
<DIV class=HOEnZb>
<DIV class=h5><BR>On Tue, Apr 3, 2012 at 12:28 PM, Michael O'Brien <<A
href="mailto:obrien@hevanet.com">obrien@hevanet.com</A>> wrote:<BR>> Hi,
Reuben--<BR>><BR>> To clarify what is being finished--I'm sure it's
obvious, but the plywood<BR>> should be exterior grade. Practically
speaking, moisture won't be able to<BR>> pass through the phenolic adhesive
between the plys. Are the two layers<BR>> free-floating over the sand? Is
that OK--they won't move when there's<BR>> traffic on them?<BR>><BR>>
It seems like a hardwood would work better than a softwood like fir,<BR>>
costlier but might hold up to traffic better, especially on half-inch<BR>>
sheets. (I wonder if 5/8" might be worth it for extra
stiffness?)<BR>><BR>> I'd suggest coating both sides and all edges with
a water-resistant finish,<BR>> while the plywood is dry. Have you looked at
Miller's Evolution satin<BR>> exterior paint? It's reasonably priced for
its performance. Miller staff can<BR>> help decide if a wood filler is
needed. The satin finish would make it<BR>> easier to
clean.<BR>><BR>> Might be good to leave a little space between edges for
expansion and to<BR>> stagger the joints between the two layers, to slow
any moisture from the<BR>> sand layer.<BR>><BR>> Is that about what
you already figured out? :^ )<BR>><BR>> Best,<BR>><BR>> Mike
O'Brien<BR>><BR>><BR>><BR>> On Apr 3, 2012, at 9:32 AM, Reuben
Deumling wrote:<BR>><BR>> I'm planning on assembling a floating double
layer of 1/2" plywood over foam<BR>> over sand that JOHN SALMEN described
here in the past, and as this is for a<BR>> basement wood shop I'm
wondering if anyone has suggestions about what to<BR>> seal or paint the
plywood with to maximize its longevity?<BR>><BR>>
Thanks.<BR>><BR>> Reuben<BR>>
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class=HOEnZb><FONT color=#888888>--<BR><BR><BR>b e n j a m i n p r a t
t<BR><BR>professor art+design<BR>the university of wisconsin
stout<BR></FONT></SPAN>
<DIV class=HOEnZb>
<DIV
class=h5><BR>_______________________________________________<BR>Greenbuilding
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