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<div class="moz-cite-prefix"><font face="Helvetica, Arial,
sans-serif">First, notching the foam is a pain in the butt, as
every stud must be properly located and accounted for, including
all </font>headers and double studs. Numerous companies have
been doing this for well over a decade, without too much success
because of this. Second, the extra effort provides no advantage
because the thermal bridging is always through the thickness of
the foam outside of the stud. Hence, I still need to find a way to
attach cladding through foam, whether notched or not.<br>
If I want an R25, 30 or R40 wall with 2x4 or 2x6 framing, you will
need to add rigid insulation outboard (EPS or rockwool or polyiso
or XPS etc). Putting EPS within the studspace gains very little (a
bit of condensation resistance for lower R-value walls, but none
for higher R-value walls). The R-value of good batts or blown in
is about the same as EPS that is at an affordable density.<br>
Finally, embedding the furring in a slot in the foam reduces the
drying capacity of the furring, and eliminates the ability to
ventilate behind the cavity.<br>
This type of system really fills an unnecessary need as far as I
can tell. Buying decent flat stock EPS from any local supplier,
and using screws and furring give you a better wall at less cost.<br>
<br>
PS. Could you be a little more subtle about trying to sell your
EPS wares too please.<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-signature">Dr John Straube, P.Eng. <br>
<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="http://www.BuildingScience.com">www.BuildingScience.com</a></div>
<br>
On 12-11-20 4:10 PM, ErgoDesk wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote
cite="mid:CAPmSYztksEC3LxJY7AQJqUdxJn681LUqFDpJb96ApTgcmhTDyg@mail.gmail.com"
type="cite"><font><font face="arial,helvetica,sans-serif">Q: Why
not.... notch your thick EPS similar to this company <a
moz-do-not-send="true"
href="https://mightybell.com/spaces/3bf8624f1716ccf4">https://mightybell.com/spaces/3bf8624f1716ccf4</a> </font></font>
<div class="gmail_extra">
<br clear="all">
<font color="#009900">
<div><span style="font-size:large">Advanced, Super Insulated,
Building Systems</span></div>
</font>
<div><a moz-do-not-send="true" href="http://about.me/ergodesk"
target="_blank">http://about.me/ergodesk</a> </div>
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<div><img moz-do-not-send="true"
src="https://socialcast.s3.amazonaws.com/logos/2052/GW275H100_logo.jpg"><br>
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<div class="gmail_quote">On Tue, Nov 20, 2012 at 12:47 PM, Chris
Koehn <span dir="ltr"><<a moz-do-not-send="true"
href="mailto:chris@koehn.com" target="_blank">chris@koehn.com</a>></span>
wrote:<br>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0
.8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
For thick insulation, take the time to pre-drill before
installing. If the structure is accurately framed, studs are
at predictable centres, and it's much easier to drill
straight holes when the sheet is on horses than when you're
standing on a ladder. We snap lines and pre-install the
screws, which makes running them in while working at height
a much simpler process. As well, choosing a screw that
self-taps into existing (and often hard) materials makes
life easier.<br>
<br>
Best,<br>
<br>
Chris Koehn<br>
TimberGuides<br>
Vancouver Island<br>
<br>
Eli wrote: "I know from experience there is a lot of labor
from missing the stud and<br>
trying again, as well as creating additional holes to the
the thermal<br>
barrier. The thicker the insulation gets, the more
difficult it becomes to<br>
hit the stud with hand held drills."<br>
<br>
<br>
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