<html><body><div style="color:#000; background-color:#fff; font-family:arial, helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:12pt">Insulation in interior walls should be considered for sound and thermal. New additions should be made to create space for the occupants without changing their utility bill. Homeowners should be convinced that before the addition construction begins, a blower door & IR investigation should be done to the original structure to air seal, at the least, and perhaps insulated if cost effective while the contractor is on site.<br><br>My 2002 house is all electric with baseboard heat in each room, zone controlled. There is insulation in ALL interior walls which helps with the zonal heat control and sound. Horrible for renovating wiring.<br><br>Air leakage tested at 1.9 ACH50.<br><div> </div><div>David Wentling<br>ConservFirst<br><br></div> <div style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"> <div style="font-family:
times new roman, new york, times, serif; font-size: 12pt;"> <div dir="ltr"> <font face="Arial" size="2"> <hr size="1"> <b><span style="font-weight:bold;">From:</span></b> Eli Talking <elitalking@rockbridge.net><br> <b><span style="font-weight: bold;">To:</span></b> 'Green Building' <greenbuilding@lists.bioenergylists.org> <br> <b><span style="font-weight: bold;">Sent:</span></b> Monday, March 18, 2013 8:12 AM<br> <b><span style="font-weight: bold;">Subject:</span></b> Re: [Greenbuilding] tight additions open to drafty houses<br> </font> </div> <br>Not much chatter on this theme. However, it comes up all the time. Thanks John for your message. Original message describing my issue is at the bottom.<br><br>My take is that where there are walls to separate the zone, they should be air sealed. However, because both sides are conditioned, one side efficiently the other inefficiently, there is no need for insulation, unless
the clients consider only heating-cooling one side. Air sealing can be achieved with drywall. After applying one side of drywall with wiring already installed, the back of the receptacle and switch boxes could be coated with great stuff. Then the economics of the improvement would be more clear and achievable. The Hall and Foyer in my layout that is open to drafty house would be part of that old house zone.<br><br>Any holes in my logic?<br><br>Eli<br><br>-----Original Message----- From: John Salmen<br>Sent: Wednesday, March 13, 2013 6:04 PM<br>To: 'Green Building'<br>Subject: Re: [Greenbuilding] tight additions open to drafty houses<br><br>I agree that you have to build to a tight standard for an addition (no point<br>in doubling the leakage). I have had clients that have refused the expense<br>of outboard insulation - but for that I design with framing on 24" centres<br>and specify roxul batts (r23) which makes a big difference - can
generally<br>encourage the roxul upgrade by savings in framing (which there are) and<br>health issues of lung irritants. At least you are assured of the best you<br>can provide for in terms of the basic structure. The rest can be upgraded...<br><br>Also a small addition built tight will require makeup air... even if they<br>invested in day of interior air sealing of the original.<br><br><br>If the addition is built to an air tight standard and a small space it will<br>require make-up air in any event which as you say the old house could<br>supply.<br><br>-----Original Message-----<br>From: Greenbuilding [mailto:<a ymailto="mailto:greenbuilding-bounces@lists.bioenergylists.org" href="mailto:greenbuilding-bounces@lists.bioenergylists.org">greenbuilding-bounces@lists.bioenergylists.org</a>]<br>On Behalf Of Eli Talking<br>Sent: March-13-13 2:41 PM<br>To: Green Building<br>Subject: [Greenbuilding] tight additions open to drafty houses<br><br>I have a client
I am trying to "Deep Energy Retrofit" their old house.<br>Whether they do that or not, I think it is important to make the addition to<br>the new standard of tightness. However, it evaluating the value, I am<br>confused by the impact of being open thermally to the 1930+- un-insulated 2<br>story clapboard house. If not thermally separated, will the tight<br>construction of the addition get air from the drafty main house.<br><br>Though a Foyer and hallway needs to open to the old house, perhaps the<br>bedrooms, bath and closets could be separated by sealing and insulating<br>interior walls. I would think that since the old house will be conditioned<br>to comfort, insulation is secondary to sealing.<br><br>Would that separation be needed to take advantage of ERV. Maybe a simple<br>timer on bath vent could deliver the fresh air from drafty part of house.<br><br>I am a little on thin ice in that thermal efficiency is not their
agenda.<br>However, I feel an ethical responsibility to build new to a high standard.<br>To build to the common practice is to build obsolete without consideration<br>of the embodied energy that will be consumed. If we build to reduce and<br>ideally eliminate the consumption of non-renewable energy, we have not<br>depleted the resource used to make the house until the house is destroyed.<br><br>Eli<br><br><br><br>_______________________________________________<br>Greenbuilding mailing list<br>to Send a Message to the list, use the email address<br><a ymailto="mailto:Greenbuilding@bioenergylists.org" href="mailto:Greenbuilding@bioenergylists.org">Greenbuilding@bioenergylists.org</a><br><br>to UNSUBSCRIBE or Change your List Settings use the web page<br><a href="http://lists.bioenergylists.org/mailman/listinfo/greenbuilding_lists.bioener"
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