<div>I agree with RT that the air barrier should occur in at the interior, but given the porousity of vintage brick and other elements, would select the most permeable material possible for that purpose. Intello has a fabric-like product that resists vapor diffusion into the wall in winter, and allows drying to the interior in summer. that might be appropriate for your climate, but it also assumes mechanical dehumidification in warm weather.</div>
<div><br></div><div>given the absence of an effective drainage plane and the effects of vapor drive to the interior when sunlight hits rainsoaked bricks, I'd be inclined to omit these membranes altogether, and go with an airtight-ish drywall or plaster finish, coated with latex primer and paint, to achieve the maximum possible permeability.</div>
<div><br></div><div><font><font><span style="color:rgb(102,0,0)">Alan Abrams</span></font><b style="color:rgb(102,0,0)"><br></b><i><span style="color:rgb(102,102,102)">certified professional building designer, AIBD<br>certified passive house consultant, PHIUS</span></i></font><div>
<i><span style="color:rgb(102,102,102)">certified passive house builder, PHIUS</span></i><font><span style="color:rgb(102,0,0)"><font color="#666666"><i><br></i></font></span><font><span style="color:rgb(102,0,0)">Abrams Design Build LLC</span></font><font size="4"><br style="color:rgb(102,0,0)">
<font><i style="color:rgb(102,0,0)">sustainable design for <font>intentional</font> living</i></font></font></font><br style="color:rgb(102,0,0)"><font style="color:rgb(102,0,0)" size="1"><font><span style="color:rgb(102,102,102)">6411 Orchard Avenue Suite 102</span><br style="color:rgb(102,102,102)">
<span style="color:rgb(102,102,102)">Takoma Park, MD 20912</span><br style="color:rgb(102,102,102)"><span style="color:rgb(102,102,102)">office </span></font></font><font style="color:rgb(102,102,102)" size="1"><font>301-270-NET- ZERO (301-270-6380) <br>
</font></font><font style="color:rgb(102,102,102)" size="1"><font>fax </font></font><font style="color:rgb(102,102,102)" size="1"><font>301-270-1466 <br></font></font><font style="color:rgb(102,102,102)" size="1"><font>cell </font></font><font style="color:rgb(102,102,102)" size="1"><font>202-437-8583</font></font><font style="color:rgb(102,102,102)" size="1"><font><br>
<a style="color:rgb(102,102,102)" href="mailto:alan@abramsdesignbuild.com" target="_blank">alan@abramsdesignbuild.com</a><br style="color:rgb(102,102,102)">
<a style="color:rgb(102,102,102)" href="http://www.abramsdesignbuild.com/" target="_blank">www.abramsdesignbuild.com</a></font></font><br></div></div>
<br><br><div class="gmail_quote">On Fri, Jun 14, 2013 at 8:57 AM, RT <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:archilogic@yahoo.ca" target="_blank">archilogic@yahoo.ca</a>></span> wrote:<br><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
On Thu, 13 Jun 2013 22:01:12 -0400, Sam Ewbank <<a href="mailto:g.l.ewbank@gmail.com" target="_blank">g.l.ewbank@gmail.com</a>><br>
wrote:<br>
<br>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
If we don't reinstall the sheething we would need to install<br>
some other sheer bracing (the sheething boards vary in width from 8" to 30"<br>
and material including cherry, poplar and butter nut).<br>
What about air sealing? Trying to seal the existing sheething would be<br>
difficult to say the least. Would the gypsum plaster be adequate?<br>
</blockquote>
<br>
Sorry. When I mentioned that the plank sheathing should be salvaged, I<br>
just assumed that it would be re-purposed or sold.<br>
<br>
Whatever function it's currently serving in the structure can be done better<br>
by some cheaper, 21st C sheathing material.<br>
<br>
Old, wide, dry hardwood planks, never exposed to weather would probably be<br>
the equivalent of gold in the decor market.<br>
<br>
It was also assumed that the plank sheathing and wood lath (total<br>
thickness 1.5" or so ) would be replaced with something that would provide<br>
functions of continuous air barrier, shear bracing and possibly more<br>
R-value. (You had mentioned rigid ins.)<br>
<br>
If I were doing it, I'd consider creating the air barrier plane (possibly<br>
OSB or board insulation + let-in bracing ... joints sealed) on the<br>
interior face of the studs, taking care to ensure continuity across the<br>
joists-balloon studs junction (ie moisture piggy-backed on air leakage<br>
could be the Kiss of Death for the brick veneer. ie wet brick no longer<br>
kept warm by heat loss would be subject to frost action that result in<br>
spalling that could look like the building had been in a war zone and hit<br>
by artillery fire.)<br>
<br>
Then any services (plumbing, electrical) that needs to go in the exterior<br>
walls could be installed on the interior of the air barrier without any<br>
concerns about sub-trades compromising the A/B's integrity.<br>
<br>
3-coat, wet applied plaster can be an effective air barrier material but maintaining the continuity of the air barrier across the stud/joists junction would still be an issue that needs to be addressed.<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
-- <br>
=== * ===<br>
Rob Tom AOD257<br>
Kanata, Ontario, Canada<br>
<br>
< A r c h i L o g i c at Y a h o o dot c a ><br>
(manually winnow the chaff from my edress if you hit "reply")<br>
<br>
______________________________<u></u>_________________<br>
Greenbuilding mailing list<br>
to Send a Message to the list, use the email address<br>
<a href="mailto:Greenbuilding@bioenergylists.org" target="_blank">Greenbuilding@bioenergylists.<u></u>org</a><br>
<br>
to UNSUBSCRIBE or Change your List Settings use the web page<br>
<a href="http://lists.bioenergylists.org/mailman/listinfo/greenbuilding_lists.bioenergylists.org" target="_blank">http://lists.bioenergylists.<u></u>org/mailman/listinfo/<u></u>greenbuilding_lists.<u></u>bioenergylists.org</a><br>
<br>
</blockquote></div><br>