<html xmlns:v="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:vml" xmlns:o="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" xmlns:w="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:word" xmlns:x="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:excel" xmlns:m="http://schemas.microsoft.com/office/2004/12/omml" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/TR/REC-html40"><head><meta http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; charset=iso-8859-1"><meta name=Generator content="Microsoft Word 12 (filtered medium)"><style><!--
/* Font Definitions */
@font-face
{font-family:"Cambria Math";
panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;}
@font-face
{font-family:Calibri;
panose-1:2 15 5 2 2 2 4 3 2 4;}
@font-face
{font-family:Tahoma;
panose-1:2 11 6 4 3 5 4 4 2 4;}
/* Style Definitions */
p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal
{margin:0cm;
margin-bottom:.0001pt;
font-size:12.0pt;
font-family:"Times New Roman","serif";}
a:link, span.MsoHyperlink
{mso-style-priority:99;
color:blue;
text-decoration:underline;}
a:visited, span.MsoHyperlinkFollowed
{mso-style-priority:99;
color:purple;
text-decoration:underline;}
span.hoenzb
{mso-style-name:hoenzb;}
span.EmailStyle18
{mso-style-type:personal-reply;
font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D;}
.MsoChpDefault
{mso-style-type:export-only;}
@page WordSection1
{size:612.0pt 792.0pt;
margin:72.0pt 72.0pt 72.0pt 72.0pt;}
div.WordSection1
{page:WordSection1;}
--></style><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<o:shapedefaults v:ext="edit" spidmax="1026" />
</xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<o:shapelayout v:ext="edit">
<o:idmap v:ext="edit" data="1" />
</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=EN-CA link=blue vlink=purple><div class=WordSection1><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'>Under our code (can) there is a ‘clear open’ requirement – with a minimum 80% open area in cross section. <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'>I think a somewhat arbitrary number based on confusion about equalizing pressure in the rainscreens but practically since siding should have support back to framing it conveniently works out to a 1x4 every 16” (if you are framing at 16) and this provides somewhat sufficient stiffness (depending on the siding) to resist wind pressure. A 1x4 every 24” works but practically would probably result in a wavy looking vertically striped wall over time (the hardy wall) – but a 1x3 every 12” meets our code goal. <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'>I think smaller compartments would work fine - I wanted to do a reverse board and batten with a 60% open area but a thicker batten and was not allowed by one inspector. I thought it was a practical attractive solution to a rainscreen.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'>For strips I typically specify 3/8” ply strips or ˝” foam IF the siding is nailed right back to the framing at 16 or 24” otherwise you need something thicker for nail holding. Studies have shown you can go much thinner but it goes back to pressure. If you want to get really confused there is a good old article by Rousseau </span><a href="http://archive.nrc-cnrc.gc.ca/obj/irc/doc/ctu-n17_eng.pdf">http://archive.nrc-cnrc.gc.ca/obj/irc/doc/ctu-n17_eng.pdf</a><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'><o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><div style='border:none;border-top:solid #B5C4DF 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0cm 0cm 0cm'><p class=MsoNormal><b><span lang=EN-US style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'>From:</span></b><span lang=EN-US style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'> Greenbuilding [mailto:greenbuilding-bounces@lists.bioenergylists.org] <b>On Behalf Of </b>Reuben Deumling<br><b>Sent:</b> August-04-13 5:20 PM<br><b>To:</b> Green Building<br><b>Subject:</b> Re: [Greenbuilding] Lstiburek... wow.<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><div><div><p class=MsoNormal style='margin-bottom:12.0pt'>Thanks to you both for your replies. Very helpful. <o:p></o:p></p></div><p class=MsoNormal>Sam, in answer to your question about a rain screen. I have so far not done this but am planning to take the plunge. I was going to use vertical furring strips. How thin can I get away with? Is there any value in installing more furring strips than I intend to nail through? <o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal style='margin-bottom:12.0pt'><o:p> </o:p></p><div><p class=MsoNormal>On Sun, Aug 4, 2013 at 6:06 AM, Sam Ewbank <<a href="mailto:g.l.ewbank@gmail.com" target="_blank">g.l.ewbank@gmail.com</a>> wrote:<o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>Hey Reuben, use a yogurt container or similar with quick dry primer, slice the lid for the paint brush handle to stick through to paint the ends in the field. <o:p></o:p></p><div><p class=MsoNormal>Having a staging area and pre-cutting and priming as many pieces as possible will help speed the installation but I wouldn't skimp on sealing. <o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal>It can get a little messy but important. Have also smeared the end with wood glue when paint wasn't available.<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><div><p class=MsoNormal>Putting small piece of whatever weather barrier you are using behind field joints also helps in the case of the joint opening (which it will) with seasonal movement. You can cut up the pieces and stuff 'em in your pouch to have handy when installing.<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal>Are you using a rain screen?<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal>Not exactly a siding installation but you can see some pictures by Gary Katz, where he is wrapping a column in wood and priming the ends that aren't exposed, also some good flashing tips:<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal><a href="http://www.garymkatz.com/TrimTechniques/column_wrap.html" target="_blank">http://www.garymkatz.com/TrimTechniques/column_wrap.html</a><o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal><span style='color:#888888'><o:p> </o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal><span class=hoenzb><span style='color:#888888'> Sam</span></span><o:p></o:p></p><div><p class=MsoNormal style='margin-bottom:12.0pt'><o:p> </o:p></p><div><div><p class=MsoNormal>On Sun, Aug 4, 2013 at 12:46 AM, Reuben Deumling <<a href="mailto:9watts@gmail.com" target="_blank">9watts@gmail.com</a>> wrote:<o:p></o:p></p></div><blockquote style='border:none;border-left:solid #CCCCCC 1.0pt;padding:0cm 0cm 0cm 6.0pt;margin-left:4.8pt;margin-right:0cm'><div><div><div><div><div><p class=MsoNormal style='margin-bottom:12.0pt'>I just stumbled upon a copy of Lstiburek's <b>Builder's Guide to Mixed Climates</b>. I was already a fan of the here recommended <b>Water Management Guide</b>, but this is pure gold.<o:p></o:p></p></div><p class=MsoNormal style='margin-bottom:12.0pt'>I have lots of questions, but the most pressing one is how in practice you folks have gone about painting the <u>ends</u> of wooden siding boards as you cut them in the field? I'm having trouble imagining how that would work in practice. I have built large racks on which to dry painted boards, but the logistics of cutting, painting the ends, setting them aside to dry, and then returning to install those now dry pieces seem daunting. Does anyone actually do this? Are there tricks? <br><br><o:p></o:p></p></div><p class=MsoNormal>Thanks very much.<o:p></o:p></p></div><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p></div></div><div><p class=MsoNormal>_______________________________________________<br>Greenbuilding mailing list<br>to Send a Message to the list, use the email address<br><a href="mailto:Greenbuilding@bioenergylists.org" target="_blank">Greenbuilding@bioenergylists.org</a><br><br>to UNSUBSCRIBE or Change your List Settings use the web page<br><a href="http://lists.bioenergylists.org/mailman/listinfo/greenbuilding_lists.bioenergylists.org" target="_blank">http://lists.bioenergylists.org/mailman/listinfo/greenbuilding_lists.bioenergylists.org</a><o:p></o:p></p></div></blockquote></div><p class=MsoNormal style='margin-bottom:12.0pt'><o:p> </o:p></p></div></div></div><p class=MsoNormal><br>_______________________________________________<br>Greenbuilding mailing list<br>to Send a Message to the list, use the email address<br><a href="mailto:Greenbuilding@bioenergylists.org">Greenbuilding@bioenergylists.org</a><br><br>to UNSUBSCRIBE or Change your List Settings use the web page<br><a href="http://lists.bioenergylists.org/mailman/listinfo/greenbuilding_lists.bioenergylists.org" target="_blank">http://lists.bioenergylists.org/mailman/listinfo/greenbuilding_lists.bioenergylists.org</a><o:p></o:p></p></div><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p></div></div></body></html>