Reuben<div>You only need to create an air gap behind the siding so you could get by with a 1/16th of an inch but it is usually easier to install a strip a 1/4" to 3/8" of an inch (1 cm) thick if you are going over your wood exterior sheathing or a 3/4" (2 cm) strip if you are furring over foam sheathing.</div>
<div><div><br></div><div>Shouldn't need any more furring strips in the field then you have studs or backing to nail to. Just make sure to allow for the necessary backing around windows, doors, inside and outside corners. </div>
<div><br></div><div>I think it was mentioned before on this list that it isn't necessary to vent the top of the rainscreen but that is something I haven't tried and maybe another list member has info on this.</div>
<div><br></div><div>You can also use a house wrap designed to allow moisture to wick away.</div><div><br></div><div>Green Building Advisor rainscreen article:</div><div><a href="http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/blogs/dept/musings/all-about-rainscreens">http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/blogs/dept/musings/all-about-rainscreens</a></div>
<div><br></div><div>An interesting excerpt from the above article for you Oregonians:</div><div><br></div><div><h3 style="margin-top:0px;margin-right:0px;margin-bottom:0px;margin-left:0px;padding-top:10px;padding-right:0px;padding-bottom:0px;padding-left:1px;font-size:13px;font-weight:bold;font-family:Arial,Verdana;text-transform:none;color:rgb(51,51,51);text-decoration:none">
What’s going on in Oregon?</h3><p style="margin-top:0px;margin-right:0px;margin-bottom:0px;margin-left:0px;padding-top:10px;padding-right:0px;padding-bottom:0px;padding-left:0px;font:normal normal normal 14px/normal Verdana,Arial;color:rgb(102,102,102);font-size:12px;line-height:19px;font-family:Verdana,Arial">
Since April 1, 2010, the residential building code in Oregon has required a minimum 1/8-inch-deep gap between siding and the WRB for all new homes.</p><p style="margin-top:0px;margin-right:0px;margin-bottom:0px;margin-left:0px;padding-top:10px;padding-right:0px;padding-bottom:0px;padding-left:0px;font:normal normal normal 14px/normal Verdana,Arial;color:rgb(102,102,102);font-size:12px;line-height:19px;font-family:Verdana,Arial">
According to <a href="http://www.jlconline.com/Images/JLC%20Report_tcm96-1071384.pdf" class="ext" target="_blank" style="color:rgb(139,141,9);font-weight:normal;text-decoration:none">an article in <em style="font-style:italic;font-weight:normal">JLC<em style="font-style:italic;font-weight:normal"></em></em></a><span class="ext" style="display:inline;background-image:url(http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/sites/all/modules/extlink/extlink.png);background-color:initial;padding-right:12px;zoom:1;background-repeat:no-repeat no-repeat"></span>, Oregon authorities have ruled that the use of any one of six brands of bumpy or wrinkled housewrap fulfills the requirements of this code provision. The six approved housewraps are Tyvek DrainWrap, Greenguard RainDrop, Valeron Vortec, HomeGuard HP Plus, Benjamin Obdyke Home Slicker, and HydroTex.</p>
<div style="font-family:Verdana,Arial;font-size:14px;color:rgb(68,68,68)"><br></div></div><div><br></div><div><div class="gmail_quote">Good Luck</div><div class="gmail_quote"><br></div><div class="gmail_quote">Sam</div><div class="gmail_quote">
<br></div><div class="gmail_quote"><br></div><div class="gmail_quote">On Sun, Aug 4, 2013 at 8:19 PM, Reuben Deumling <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:9watts@gmail.com" target="_blank">9watts@gmail.com</a>></span> wrote:<br>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div dir="ltr"><div>Thanks to you both for your replies. Very helpful. <br><br></div>Sam, in answer to your question about a rain screen. I have so far not done this but am planning to take the plunge. I was going to use vertical furring strips. How thin can I get away with? Is there any value in installing more furring strips than I intend to nail through? <br>
</div><div class="HOEnZb"><div class="h5"><div class="gmail_extra"><br><br><div class="gmail_quote">On Sun, Aug 4, 2013 at 6:06 AM, Sam Ewbank <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:g.l.ewbank@gmail.com" target="_blank">g.l.ewbank@gmail.com</a>></span> wrote:<br>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">Hey Reuben, use a yogurt container or similar with quick dry primer, slice the lid for the paint brush handle to stick through to paint the ends in the field. <div>
Having a staging area and pre-cutting and priming as many pieces as possible will help speed the installation but I wouldn't skimp on sealing. </div>
<div>It can get a little messy but important. Have also smeared the end with wood glue when paint wasn't available.</div><div><br><div>Putting small piece of whatever weather barrier you are using behind field joints also helps in the case of the joint opening (which it will) with seasonal movement. You can cut up the pieces and stuff 'em in your pouch to have handy when installing.</div>
<div><br></div><div>Are you using a rain screen?</div><div><br></div><div>Not exactly a siding installation but you can see some pictures by Gary Katz, where he is wrapping a column in wood and priming the ends that aren't exposed, also some good flashing tips:</div>
<div><a href="http://www.garymkatz.com/TrimTechniques/column_wrap.html" target="_blank">http://www.garymkatz.com/TrimTechniques/column_wrap.html</a></div><span><font color="#888888"><div><br></div></font></span><div>
<span><font color="#888888"> Sam<br></font></span><div><br><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div>On Sun, Aug 4, 2013 at 12:46 AM, Reuben Deumling <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:9watts@gmail.com" target="_blank">9watts@gmail.com</a>></span> wrote:<br>
</div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div><div><div dir="ltr"><div><div>I just stumbled upon a copy of Lstiburek's <b>Builder's Guide to Mixed Climates</b>. I was already a fan of the here recommended <b>Water Management Guide</b>, but this is pure gold.<br>
<br>
</div>I have lots of questions, but the most pressing one is how in practice you folks have gone about painting the <u>ends</u> of wooden siding boards as you cut them in the field? I'm having trouble imagining how that would work in practice. I have built large racks on which to dry painted boards, but the logistics of cutting, painting the ends, setting them aside to dry, and then returning to install those now dry pieces seem daunting. Does anyone actually do this? Are there tricks? <br>
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