<html><head></head><body style="word-wrap: break-word; -webkit-nbsp-mode: space; -webkit-line-break: after-white-space; ">Don't hesitate to use backing bead: it's a soft round foam, available in many diameters, which you press into the space to be caulked.<div>Troweling off the caulk face with the appropriate finger, the backing gives your caulk the desired hour-glass profile.<br><div apple-content-edited="true">
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-webkit-nbsp-mode: space; -webkit-line-break: after-white-space; ">Clarke Olsen<br><a href="http://clarkeolsendesign.com">clarkeolsendesign.com</a><br>373 route 203<br>Spencertown, NY 12165 <br>USA<br>518-392-4640<br>colsen@taconic.net<br><br><br><br></div></span></div></span></div></span></div></span></div></span></div></span></div></span></span>
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<br><div><div>On Aug 17, 2013, at 10:13 AM, Benjamin Pratt wrote:</div><br class="Apple-interchange-newline"><blockquote type="cite"><div dir="ltr">Planing to remove and replace shoe molding around the perimeter of the interior in order to caulk underneath it. I want to seal up some of the drafts the infrared scans revealed--as well to keep out critters.. Should I use sound caulk, which never hardens and is inexpensive, or polyurethane caulk--my current favorite (but it's expensive)?<div>
Floor is 2" oak, In some cases. Where there's a big enough gap, i will caulk between the oak and the wall, in other cases, just between the floor and the base molding. I don't want to remove the base molding--that would be more difficult.</div>
<div>Ben<br><div class="gmail_extra">-- <br><br><br></div></div></div>
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