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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=EN-CA link=blue vlink=purple><div class=WordSection1><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'>I’ve never seen that – but so many products out there. Nothing listed on the Canadian MSDS for the tape but the US one lists acrylate which is a contact allergen and polyurethane foam. <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'>I think tape sealing the gap is more important than filling the gap as the idea is to leave room for building movement. We do use foam guns but I do think gaskets are the best as foam can get pretty rigid. (Trick with the foam gun is to Vaseline the can to gun connection and after using very tightly close up the adjustment knob and never touch it with cleaner and then make sure it gets used once a month at least). <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'>Not much need for that type of filling now with exterior foam wraps. We are securing windows and doors to the outside foam skin using taped flanges (adding flanges to wood windows). Tied back to framing with strapping. Leaves a flexible assembly. If it is a wood window with wood liner – the liners are made up as part of the window (biscuit) and float with the window in the opening.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'>Window details still need some work – I think ideally they should be recessed on the exterior to minimize wind washing but its a hard detail to work out.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><div style='border:none;border-top:solid #B5C4DF 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0cm 0cm 0cm'><p class=MsoNormal><b><span lang=EN-US style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'>From:</span></b><span lang=EN-US style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'> Greenbuilding [mailto:greenbuilding-bounces@lists.bioenergylists.org] <b>On Behalf Of </b>Alan Abrams<br><b>Sent:</b> September-05-13 4:34 AM<br><b>To:</b> Green Building<br><b>Subject:</b> Re: [Greenbuilding] insulating around windows... best practice<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><div><p class=MsoNormal>I've heard about but never tried Tremco expanding foam tape. It comes off the roll very thin, and sloowwwly expands. You apply it to the window perimeter, and you have a few moments to slam the window in place, and level and square it up, before the Tremco swells to seal the gap. If you run into a problem with the opening, or have to stop and take a leak, the foam expands larger than the opening, and you have to scrape it off (at what, a buck a foot???) and start over. <o:p></o:p></p><div><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal>AA<o:p></o:p></p></div></div><div><p class=MsoNormal style='margin-bottom:12.0pt'><o:p> </o:p></p><div><p class=MsoNormal>On Thu, Sep 5, 2013 at 3:00 AM, Reuben Deumling <<a href="mailto:9watts@gmail.com" target="_blank">9watts@gmail.com</a>> wrote:<o:p></o:p></p><div><div><p class=MsoNormal style='margin-bottom:12.0pt'>I like backer rod. My method has evolved into stuffing the appropriate diameter backer rod from the outside and from the inside around the perimeter of the window. Done carefully I convince myself that I'm creating some dead air space in between the two foam layers. <br>Are there better ways of doing this? <br>I am aware of and used to use a foam gun. But I never can seem to make sure to clean the gun when I'm done and so the next time I have to buy the expensive acetone cleaner and take the damn thing apart again. Which is one of the reasons I've switched to backer rod. <o:p></o:p></p></div><p class=MsoNormal>Thanks.<o:p></o:p></p></div><p class=MsoNormal><br>_______________________________________________<br>Greenbuilding mailing list<br>to Send a Message to the list, use the email address<br><a href="mailto:Greenbuilding@bioenergylists.org">Greenbuilding@bioenergylists.org</a><br><br>to UNSUBSCRIBE or Change your List Settings use the web page<br><a href="http://lists.bioenergylists.org/mailman/listinfo/greenbuilding_lists.bioenergylists.org" target="_blank">http://lists.bioenergylists.org/mailman/listinfo/greenbuilding_lists.bioenergylists.org</a><o:p></o:p></p></div><p class=MsoNormal><br><br clear=all><o:p></o:p></p><div><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p></div><p class=MsoNormal>-- <br><span style='color:#660000'>Alan Abrams<b><br></b></span><i><span style='color:#666666'>certified professional building designer, AIBD<br>certified passive house consultant, PHIUS</span></i><o:p></o:p></p><div><p class=MsoNormal><i><span style='color:#666666'>certified passive house builder, PHIUS<br></span></i><span style='color:#660000'>Abrams Design Build LLC</span><span style='font-size:13.5pt;color:#660000'><br><i>sustainable design for intentional living</i></span><span style='font-size:7.5pt;color:#666666'><br>cell 202-437-8583<br><a href="mailto:alan@abramsdesignbuild.com" target="_blank"><span style='color:#666666'>alan@abramsdesignbuild.com</span></a><br><a href="http://www.abramsdesignbuild.com/" target="_blank"><span style='color:#666666'>www.abramsdesignbuild.com</span></a></span><o:p></o:p></p></div></div></div></body></html>