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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=EN-CA link=blue vlink=purple><div class=WordSection1><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:black'>I thought so too and went that route but turns out the terpene from oranges is a much stronger contact sensitizer than good old fashioned terpene from trees – a health issue in orange picking country<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:black'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><div style='border:none;border-top:solid #B5C4DF 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0cm 0cm 0cm'><p class=MsoNormal><b><span lang=EN-US style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'>From:</span></b><span lang=EN-US style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'> Greenbuilding [mailto:greenbuilding-bounces@lists.bioenergylists.org] <b>On Behalf Of </b>Gennaro Brooks-Church - Eco Brooklyn<br><b>Sent:</b> February-17-14 10:48 AM<br><b>To:</b> Green Building<br><b>Subject:</b> Re: [Greenbuilding] protecting outdoor wooden structure from future decay (or at least delaying it)<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>Citrus Solvent is a great alternative to turpentine. <br><br>On Monday, February 17, 2014, John Salmen <<a href="mailto:terrain@shaw.ca">terrain@shaw.ca</a>> wrote:<o:p></o:p></p><div><div><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"'>I’m still convinced the best treatment for exterior wood is no treatment - considering that untreated wood degrades from atmosphere at most about ¼” per century – and the natural grey is nice. </span><o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"'> </span><o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"'>Next on the list is treatments that oxidize the surface uniformly and ‘naturally’. Off the shelf products include Lifetime Wood Treatment. I’ve also torched wood and then brushed/polished the surface (old Japanese treatment). </span><o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"'> </span><o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"'>For finishes I’ve found nothing better than raw tung oil (ordered wholesale) cut with pure turpentine. For off the shelf I’ve had good success on planed smooth wood with Pennofin Verde (a Brazilian oil derivative). I’ve been told that it does not work as well on rough wood surfaces.</span><o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"'> </span><o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"'>Do not use linseed or any oil that may simply be a food (be careful of ‘tung’ oil recipes)</span><o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"'> </span><o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"'>Make sure there is a good air path to all surfaces and good separation from soil (use gravel where possible as a base)</span><o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"'> </span><o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"'> </span><o:p></o:p></p><div style='border:none;border-top:solid #B5C4DF 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0cm 0cm 0cm'><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><b><span lang=EN-US style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'>From:</span></b><span lang=EN-US style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'> Greenbuilding [mailto:<a href="javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','greenbuilding-bounces@lists.bioenergylists.org');" target="_blank">greenbuilding-bounces@lists.bioenergylists.org</a>] <b>On Behalf Of </b>Reuben Deumling<br><b>Sent:</b> February-17-14 8:04 AM<br><b>To:</b> Greenbuilding<br><b>Subject:</b> [Greenbuilding] protecting outdoor wooden structure from future decay (or at least delaying it)</span><o:p></o:p></p></div><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'> <o:p></o:p></p><div><p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'>I'm in the process of building a large outdoor structure (porch, timber frame bridge, stairs, etc.) out of Douglas fir we milled ourselves. The decking is cedar which I'm not worried about, but the rest I'm realizing could probably benefit from some attempt at prolonging its useful life. I despise pressure treated wood, and am not interested in noxious chemicals. Are there any other methods? <br><br>Thanks very much.<o:p></o:p></p></div></div></div><p class=MsoNormal style='margin-bottom:12.0pt'><br><br>-- <br>Gennaro Brooks-Church<br>Director, Eco Brooklyn Inc.<br>Cell: 1 347 244 3016 USA<br><a href="http://www.EcoBrooklyn.com" target="_blank">www.EcoBrooklyn.com</a><br>22 2nd St; Brooklyn, NY 11231<o:p></o:p></p></div></body></html>