Citrus Solvent is a great alternative to turpentine. <span></span><br><br>On Monday, February 17, 2014, John Salmen <<a href="mailto:terrain@shaw.ca">terrain@shaw.ca</a>> wrote:<br><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
<div lang="EN-CA" link="blue" vlink="purple"><div><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"">I’m still convinced the best treatment for exterior wood is no treatment - considering that untreated wood degrades from atmosphere at most about ¼” per century – and the natural grey is nice. <u></u><u></u></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif""><u></u> <u></u></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"">Next on the list is treatments that oxidize the surface uniformly and ‘naturally’. Off the shelf products include Lifetime Wood Treatment. I’ve also torched wood and then brushed/polished the surface (old Japanese treatment). <u></u><u></u></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif""><u></u> <u></u></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"">For finishes I’ve found nothing better than raw tung oil (ordered wholesale) cut with pure turpentine. For off the shelf I’ve had good success on planed smooth wood with Pennofin Verde (a Brazilian oil derivative). I’ve been told that it does not work as well on rough wood surfaces.<u></u><u></u></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif""><u></u> <u></u></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"">Do not use linseed or any oil that may simply be a food (be careful of ‘tung’ oil recipes)<u></u><u></u></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif""><u></u> <u></u></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"">Make sure there is a good air path to all surfaces and good separation from soil (use gravel where possible as a base)<u></u><u></u></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif""><u></u> <u></u></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif""><u></u> <u></u></span></p>
<div style="border:none;border-top:solid #b5c4df 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0cm 0cm 0cm"><p class="MsoNormal"><b><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"">From:</span></b><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif""> Greenbuilding [mailto:<a href="javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','greenbuilding-bounces@lists.bioenergylists.org');" target="_blank">greenbuilding-bounces@lists.bioenergylists.org</a>] <b>On Behalf Of </b>Reuben Deumling<br>
<b>Sent:</b> February-17-14 8:04 AM<br><b>To:</b> Greenbuilding<br><b>Subject:</b> [Greenbuilding] protecting outdoor wooden structure from future decay (or at least delaying it)<u></u><u></u></span></p></div><p class="MsoNormal">
<u></u> <u></u></p><div><p class="MsoNormal">I'm in the process of building a large outdoor structure (porch, timber frame bridge, stairs, etc.) out of Douglas fir we milled ourselves. The decking is cedar which I'm not worried about, but the rest I'm realizing could probably benefit from some attempt at prolonging its useful life. I despise pressure treated wood, and am not interested in noxious chemicals. Are there any other methods? <br>
<br>Thanks very much.<u></u><u></u></p></div></div></div></blockquote><br><br>-- <br>Gennaro Brooks-Church<br>Director, Eco Brooklyn Inc.<br>Cell: 1 347 244 3016 USA<br><a href="http://www.EcoBrooklyn.com" target="_blank">www.EcoBrooklyn.com</a><br>
22 2nd St; Brooklyn, NY 11231<br><br>