<html><head><meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html charset=windows-1252"></head><body style="word-wrap: break-word; -webkit-nbsp-mode: space; -webkit-line-break: after-white-space; ">I used Roxul in 2011, and it was very satisfying: like stuffing the walls with heavy quilts. <div>Hard to call it green, but we used galvanized steel to side the building. No painting on site,</div><div>not for a long time, I hope. Goes on fast: measure carefully, and order it cut to sizes. Another</div><div>reason for my choice was that the house was a replacement for one that burned down when</div><div>sparks from a trash fire caught on the cedar shingle siding which is textured for easy ignition.</div><div>Galvalume reflects light to be slightly different every minute.<br><div apple-content-edited="true">
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-webkit-nbsp-mode: space; -webkit-line-break: after-white-space; ">Clarke Olsen<br><a href="http://clarkeolsendesign.com">clarkeolsendesign.com</a><br>373 route 203<br>Spencertown, NY 12165 <br>USA<br>518-392-4640<br>colsen@taconic.net<br><br><br><br></div></span></div></span></div></span></div></span></div></span></div></span></div></span></span>
</div>
<br><div><div>On Mar 26, 2014, at 11:42 AM, Alan Abrams <<a href="mailto:alan@abramsdesignbuild.com">alan@abramsdesignbuild.com</a>> wrote:</div><br class="Apple-interchange-newline"><blockquote type="cite"><div dir="ltr">here's where I'm heading--envelope design in my mixed humid clime is going to be based on:<div><br></div><div>two way permeability</div><div>configuration that facilitates a continuous air barrier--therefore:</div>
<div>a config that combines the air barrier with rain screen</div><div>enough exo insulation to keep the sheathing above dewpoint in cold weather, and to reduce thermal bridging</div><div>simplicity--fewest number of layers</div>
<div>elements outside the rainscreen to be highly resilient</div><div><br></div><div>(I should also confess that I have succumbed to FAS--Foam Avoidance Syndrome)</div><div><br></div><div>so with that rationale, the ideal assembly would be, from the exterior in:</div>
<div><br></div><div>*cladding on treated or carefully primed furring, secured with SS fasteners (for low thermal conductivity as well as corrosion resistance)</div><div>*a permeable WRB like Solitex Mento</div><div>*3" or so roxul comfort board</div>
<div>*Zip sheathing, taped, as air barrier and secondary WRB. Flange type windows and doors taped to the Zip board</div><div>*OVE stud wall</div><div>*a void, width determined by specific space heat demand analysis</div>
<div>*an inner frame wall</div><div>*the entire framing cavity filled with DP cellulose</div><div>*drywall, painted with permeable coatings</div><div><br></div><div>Having the air barrier on the face of the sheathing avoids the difficulty of maneuvering an interstitial air barrier around floor systems, windows and doors, jogs, overhangs, and other obstacles. it also reduces the possibility of water vapor intrusion in summer, and would reduce the intensity of convection in the framing cavities, where there may be imperfections in the dense pack.</div>
<div><br></div><div>I am not convinced that this assembly would need a special interior vapor barrier. I'd use airtight electrical boxes and make a reasonable effort to seal other penetrations in the drywall, but would rather not add any layers that would potentially impede drying to the interior</div>
<div><br></div><div>=AA</div></div><div class="gmail_extra"><br clear="all"><div><font><font><span style="color:rgb(102,0,0)">Alan Abrams</span></font><b style="color:rgb(102,0,0)"><br></b><i><span style="color:rgb(102,102,102)">certified professional building designer, AIBD<br>
certified passive house consultant, PHIUS</span></i></font><div><i><span style="color:rgb(102,102,102)">certified passive house builder, PHIUS</span></i><font><span style="color:rgb(102,0,0)"><font color="#666666"><i><br>
</i></font></span><font><span style="color:rgb(102,0,0)">Abrams Design Build LLC</span></font><font size="4"><br style="color:rgb(102,0,0)"><font><i style="color:rgb(102,0,0)">sustainable design for <font>intentional</font> living</i></font></font></font><font style="color:rgb(102,102,102)" size="1"><br>
</font><font style="color:rgb(102,102,102)" size="1">cell </font><font style="color:rgb(102,102,102)" size="1">202-437-8583</font><font style="color:rgb(102,102,102)" size="1"><br>
<a style="color:rgb(102,102,102)" href="mailto:alan@abramsdesignbuild.com" target="_blank">alan@abramsdesignbuild.com</a><br style="color:rgb(102,102,102)">
<a style="color:rgb(102,102,102)" href="http://www.abramsdesignbuild.com/" target="_blank">www.abramsdesignbuild.com</a></font><br></div></div>
<br><br><div class="gmail_quote">On Wed, Mar 26, 2014 at 11:00 AM, Joe Killian <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:kaa-ajk@sonic.net" target="_blank">kaa-ajk@sonic.net</a>></span> wrote:<br><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
<div text="#000000" bgcolor="#FFFFFF">
<div> Yes, Roxul looks like a great
choice. Canadian Home Depot stores list their residential product
at comparable prices to fiberglass. <br>
I was able to find the commercial Roxul products from a
distributor here in Sacramento (I'm in Nevada), and they were
happy to accept a large order (roughly a full 53' container load)
for Roxul's residential product. However, the factory told them
they would not sell the residential product in the U.S.<span class="HOEnZb"><font color="#888888"><br>
Joe</font></span><div><div class="h5"><br>
<br>
On 3/25/2014 12:56 PM, Jason Holstine wrote:<br>
</div></div></div><div><div class="h5">
<blockquote type="cite">
<font face="Calibri, Verdana, Helvetica, Arial"><span style="font-size:11pt"><br>
The Roxul Comfortboard has been gaining steam and reputation
as a replacement for the plastechhh foam boards. Much lower
GHG potential and toxicity, doesn’t burn (made of recycled
steel and volcanic rock), deals with vapor and water nicely,
tight, quiet, and Roxul is picking up documentation on hanging
it. Only downside is availability in your area may still be
dicey. <br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
On 3/25/14 10:53 AM, "Lynelle A. Hamilton" <<a href="http://lynelle@kos.net/" target="_blank">lynelle@kos.net</a>>
wrote:<br>
<br>
<font color="#0000FF">> For true! I'm planning on some
sort of sheathing as you describe. I <br>
> used 2" of closed cell spray foam last time over outer
side of 14" <br>
> insulated Dursiol block. I love the house and the
airtightness of it <br>
> (assuming airtightness is a word), but it was a pricey
option.<br>
> <br>
> Lynelle<br>
> On 3/25/2014 10:43 AM, Clarke Olsen wrote:<br>
</font><font color="#008000">>> Don't forget that
uninterrupted insulation, like foam spanning across studs, <br>
>> or cellulose in the center of a double wall,<br>
>> is worth more then the same stuff stuffed between
studs.<br>
>> Clarke Olsen<br>
>> <a href="http://clarkeolsendesign.com/" target="_blank">clarkeolsendesign.com</a><br>
>> 373 route 203<br>
>> Spencertown, NY 12165<br>
>> USA<br>
>> 518-392-4640<br>
>> <a href="http://colsen@taconic.net/" target="_blank">colsen@taconic.net</a><br>
>> <br>
>> <br>
>> <br>
>> <br>
>> On Mar 25, 2014, at 9:28 AM, "Lynelle A. Hamilton"
<<a href="http://lynelle@kos.net/" target="_blank">lynelle@kos.net</a>>
wrote:<br>
>> <br>
</font><font color="#FF0000">>>> Hi Listers,<br>
>>> <br>
>>> I am looking to tap the collective expertise of
the group for house #3. I <br>
>>> am aiming for R-50 or so in the walls, but
would love opinions on the <br>
>>> greenest and most cost effective method to
attain same.<br>
>>> <br>
>>> Any thoughts?<br>
>>> <br>
>>> Lynelle<br>
>>> <br>
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