<div dir="ltr"><div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:arial narrow,sans-serif;font-size:large">I agree with Keith 100%, all I will add is stay away from any "Spray" foam.</div></div><div class="gmail_extra">
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<br><br><div class="gmail_quote">On Sun, Jun 1, 2014 at 6:25 PM, Leslie Moyer <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:unschooler@lrec.org" target="_blank">unschooler@lrec.org</a>></span> wrote:<br><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
Keith (or anyone),<br>
<br>
Do you know anything about "Foam It Green" as it relates to these issues (or others)? It's a DIY spray foam kit. They don't have too much info on their website....they are a member of the USGBC and "balance" their carbon emissions through Terrapass.<br>
<br>
On 9/9/07, 11:57 AM, Keith Winston wrote:<br>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
I don't have time to comment on your crawlspace issue, but I will say:<br>
<br>
Don't use TigerFoam, HandiFoam, and all other 2-part builder-applied<br>
foams. Also, don't use contractors who use Dow FrothPak, which is the<br>
same type of foam but in addition to small builder packages is sometimes<br>
blown from trucks in large volumes.<br>
<br>
All these use refrigerants as blowing agents. They release 7-15 lbs of<br>
refrigerants (typically HFC's) for each 600 sf (board foot) package.<br>
The Global Warming Potential (CO2 equivalency) of these refrigerants is<br>
around 1500-2000, which means that those (nominal) 10 lbs are equivalent<br>
to about 7-10 TONS of CO2 release. That will counteract at least the<br>
majority of your CO2 reductions resulting from better insulating.<br>
<br>
I think this is a scandal that needs to be exposed. I have been talking<br>
about it with many people (including people in the industry), but<br>
haven't really figured out how to get word out. Until/unless we regulate<br>
carbon emissions, there are no regulatory tools to apply (the<br>
manufacturers changed from CFC's and HCFC's as blowing agents to avoid<br>
Ozone/Montreal Protocol problems).<br>
<br>
"Good" PU foams are blown using a proportioner with heated hoses in a<br>
truck, and water is the blowing agent. Even the little one-part PU foam<br>
cans from Home Depot, etc, are powered by isobutane or other simple<br>
hydrocarbons with relatively low GWP.<br>
<br>
I am now accepting donations to my legal defense fund ;-)<br>
<br>
If I have anything wrong here, I'd love to know. Constituents can be<br>
(roughly) determined from MSDS sheets for foam products.<br>
<br>
Keith<br>
<br>
<br>
Thomas Lewis wrote:<br>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
Hello All,<br>
<br>
I just purchased a home and am developing my project<br>
list.<br>
<br>
I would like to pose my plan for insulating the<br>
crawlspace and basement for your comment.<br>
<br>
The crawlspace is ~180ft2 with a dry layed stone<br>
foundation of unknown depth and ~2' thick. It has<br>
been worked on over the years. The exterior is<br>
pointed with a layer of stucco over that and two<br>
sections have been replaced with 8" masonry block.<br>
One section is a corner and the other is a four foot<br>
section with a vent.<br>
The crawlspace has ~6" - 36" clearance from grade to<br>
floor joist, all above exterior grade.<br>
<br>
The location is hudson valley ny, on top of a hill<br>
with clay soil, NE exposure. The soil in the<br>
crawlspace appears to remain moist much of the time,<br>
but has not been wet yet and there are no signs of<br>
water damage on wood laying in there. However, wood<br>
that is partially embedded in the ground is moist but<br>
with no signs of fungal or mold activity.<br>
<br>
My idea is to spray foam with 1.75 lb tiger foam. (I<br>
may just hire our local spray foam guys to do this,<br>
being that they have air supply masks et al) Clean up<br>
all debris and remove a layer of soil, which is<br>
pitched to the center of the room from all points. I<br>
will then dig a trench in the center, pour a small<br>
footing for a center post, repost the center support,<br>
then lay gravel in the trench and over cleaned floor,<br>
then cover the floor with polyethylene with standard<br>
lapping and sealing details.<br>
Based on lack of evidence of water, other than ground<br>
moisture, and the prospect of installing one into a<br>
place that I can barely roll over in when laying<br>
prone, I am opting to not put in a sump pump.<br>
<br>
I will install a 6" round, the kind with a weighted<br>
baffel, heated air supply to the space, with a return.<br>
The basement is loosely connected to the air supply<br>
system, there is one 6" supply and one 8" return down<br>
there. If I return the crawlspace air to the<br>
basement, will I pressurize the basement and<br>
depressurize the living space? Its an old loose<br>
house, with many places where air moves between<br>
floors. (I imagine the stack effect is pretty<br>
substatial here)<br>
<br>
<br>
I am haveing a bit more trouble planning for the<br>
basement insulation.<br>
<br>
Here I have 8' ceilings, the first four feet is stone,<br>
then on top of that I have brick. The stone is below<br>
exterior grade and the brick generally starts 6" below<br>
grade and goes to 3' above grade. I was thinking of<br>
repointing the interior where necessary, then spraying<br>
2 lb. foam on the stone (~3") and a thin (3"?) layer<br>
of 0.5 lb. on the brick.<br>
.5 lb on the brick because I am concerned with<br>
reducing the brick's drying capability and with it<br>
getting too cold during the winter. My thought is<br>
that if I insulate alot, it will be harder for the<br>
brick to dry and the exterior will get colder during<br>
winter and may damage the brick.<br>
<br>
<br>
My apologies, this email seems to have gotten rather<br>
long. Thanks for reading it and in advance for any<br>
advice you may have.<br>
<br>
Best,<br>
Tom Lewis<br>
<br>
<br>
"Time makes more converts than reason." Thomas Paine, Common Sense<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
</blockquote></blockquote>
<br>
<br>
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