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<div class="moz-cite-prefix">Kurt,<br>
If you trust your metal siding to keep water out, I'd suggest
attaching the 2x6 wall to the girts and having no vapor barrier.<br>
If you only trust it to keep most water out, I'd suggest the
drainage plane between the 2X6 wall & girts, but still no
vapor barrier. <br>
You want the wall to be able to dry from any condensation, and
it won't likely dry well through the metal siding.<br>
See<br>
<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/digests/bsd-106-understanding-vapor-barriers">http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/digests/bsd-106-understanding-vapor-barriers</a><br>
<br>
Joe<br>
<br>
On 7/5/2014 3:36 PM, Kurt Jensen wrote:<br>
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cite="mid:CALcfm6jqKpq0GFv+zmDuUCL9ENVkJC8Lksu8NHk1EKKutrWVPw@mail.gmail.com"
type="cite">
<div dir="ltr">Hi all,
<div>I am working on insulating a pole barn. Currently, the
building has 1.5 inch EPS glued to the ribbed metal siding,
between the girts and purlins. </div>
<div>The project is in the Pacific Northwest and the owner wants
the building very well insulated. The floor is concrete slab.
I'm thinking of framing 2x6 walls inside the existing building
and insulating the wood walls with cellulose. My concerns have
to do with trapping moisture. Since we have a fairly mild
climate, but a lot of moisture issues, vapor barriers are
often not used. I'm thinking of typical framing of OSB and
moisture barrier to outside of the 2x6 walls and sheetrock on
inside. My question is, should I leaving an inch or so space
between 2x6 wall and the insulated barn wall or attach inside
wall directly to girts? Anybody done anything like this or
seen it done? Thanks<br clear="all">
<div><br>
</div>
-- <br>
Kurt Jensen<br>
Willamette Valley, Oregon.
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