<div dir="ltr"><div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:'arial narrow',sans-serif">EPS Composites can survive 360 day soakings on both sides and still have fewer problems that wood being soaked on 1 side for 1 week.  <a href="http://www.houzz.com/pro/ergodesk/ergodesk-energy-efficient-building-envelopes">http://www.houzz.com/pro/ergodesk/ergodesk-energy-efficient-building-envelopes</a></div>

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<br><br><div class="gmail_quote">On Sat, Jul 5, 2014 at 8:44 PM, Joe Killian <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:kaa-ajk@sonic.net" target="_blank">kaa-ajk@sonic.net</a>></span> wrote:<br><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">


  
    
  
  <div bgcolor="#FFFFFF" text="#000000">
    <div>Kurt,<br>
        If you trust your metal siding to keep water out, I'd suggest
      attaching the 2x6 wall to the girts and having no vapor barrier.<br>
        If you only trust it to keep most water out, I'd suggest the
      drainage plane between the 2X6 wall & girts, but still no
      vapor barrier.  <br>
        You want the wall to be able to dry from any condensation, and
      it won't likely dry well through the metal siding.<br>
        See<br>
       
<a href="http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/digests/bsd-106-understanding-vapor-barriers" target="_blank">http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/digests/bsd-106-understanding-vapor-barriers</a><br>
      <br>
      Joe<br>
      <br>
      On 7/5/2014 3:36 PM, Kurt Jensen wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite">
      <div dir="ltr">Hi all,
        <div>I am working on insulating a pole barn. Currently, the
          building has 1.5 inch EPS glued to the ribbed metal siding,
          between the girts and purlins. </div>
        <div>The project is in the Pacific Northwest and the owner wants
          the building very well insulated. The floor is concrete slab.
          I'm thinking of framing 2x6 walls inside the existing building
          and insulating the wood walls with cellulose. My concerns have
          to do with trapping moisture. Since we have a fairly mild
          climate, but a lot of moisture issues, vapor barriers are
          often not used. I'm thinking of typical framing of OSB and
          moisture barrier to outside of the 2x6 walls and sheetrock on
          inside. My question is, should I leaving an inch or so space
          between 2x6 wall and the insulated barn wall or attach inside
          wall directly to girts? Anybody done anything like this or
          seen it done? Thanks<span class="HOEnZb"><font color="#888888"><br clear="all">
          <div><br>
          </div>
          -- <br>
          Kurt Jensen<br>
          Willamette Valley, Oregon.
        </font></span></div><span class="HOEnZb"><font color="#888888">
      </font></span></div><span class="HOEnZb"><font color="#888888">
      <br>
      <fieldset></fieldset>
      <br>
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