<div dir="ltr">Behr paint is really thin and takes multiple coats for good coverage. The paint contractors prefer is thick so you can do it and one coat. I used behr paint when I originally painted the entire interior of my house and really regret it. When I switch to a better paint it went on nicer, and lasted longer. Sometimes I don't know where consumer Reports is coming from. I've bought a couple of things based on their recommendation that Ive regretted. The paint costs twice as much per can but saves you a bunch of time.<div>
One of the paint contractors prefer is sherwin's superPaint. However a decent compromise is the valspar copy of SuperPaint sold at lowes. Good stuff.<br><div> </div></div><div class="gmail_extra"><div><div dir="ltr">
ben<div>(Typing with only my left hand or using speech recognition due to injury)</div></div></div>
<br><br><div class="gmail_quote">On Sun, Jul 6, 2014 at 11:34 AM, Sacie Lambertson <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:sacie.lambertson@gmail.com" target="_blank">sacie.lambertson@gmail.com</a>></span> wrote:<br><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
<div dir="ltr"><div style="font-family:verdana,sans-serif;font-size:small;display:inline">All, I would appreciate advice vis a vis the following:<br><br></div><div style="font-family:verdana,sans-serif;font-size:small;display:inline">
An old 1904 house gutted and insulated not real well with fiberglass batts, rewired, plumbed and painted by the previous owner. The paint job, done probably within the past 6-7 years over both old and new clapboard is failing.<br>
<br></div><div style="font-family:verdana,sans-serif;font-size:small;display:inline">A number of painters have looked at it, each having their own theory and practice. Photos taken of the outside in the cold indicate likely, moisture from the inside, usually where the studs and floor rims are. (Paint failure no more here than elsewhere).<br>
<br></div><div style="font-family:verdana,sans-serif;font-size:small;display:inline">Paint company reps suggest climate does not allow thorough clapboard drying. Sun on damp clapboard causes previous paint to blister pulling up all layers of previous paint to expose raw clapboard. Notable, up high where overhang protects, the paint is in good shape. Best practice would be to first scrap/sand as necessary, allow air behind clapboard via 'widgets' placed every 12-18 inches followed by an application of oil OR water-based primer and two coats of good paint.<br>
<br></div><div style="font-family:verdana,sans-serif;font-size:small;display:inline">Would appreciate comments/advice on all aspects, including the use of oil OR latex primer and why and the idea of allowing air behind clapboard.<br>
<br></div><div style="font-family:verdana,sans-serif;font-size:small;display:inline">Curious too why paint reps, (two different known brands), sniff at Behr paint the single most often recommended paint by Consumer Reports. Assume no discount from Home Depot to painters?? <br>
<br></div><div style="font-family:verdana,sans-serif;font-size:small;display:inline">Thanks, Sacie<br></div><div style="font-family:verdana,sans-serif;font-size:small;display:inline">
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