<div dir="ltr">Norbert, I would love to close off that 6" hole. I was told that the boiler would operate less efficiently if I do that. I suppose that assumes less oxygen? IF that is not true, I and am ready to plug up that hole! Any ideas about the open flue of the boiler and the water heater? Are they less concerning?<div>Thanks!</div><div>Ben<br><div><div><br></div></div></div></div><div class="gmail_extra"><br clear="all"><div><div class="gmail_signature"><div dir="ltr"><br><div><br></div><br>b e n j a m i n p r a t t<div><br>professor art+design</div><div>the university of wisconsin stout</div></div></div></div>
<br><div class="gmail_quote">On Wed, Jan 14, 2015 at 3:04 PM, Norbert Senf <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:norbert.senf@gmail.com" target="_blank">norbert.senf@gmail.com</a>></span> wrote:<br><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div dir="ltr">The air consumption of an 80,000 BTU/hr boiler is in the range of 25 cfm while it is operating. Heating that combustion air by 50 degrees F requires about 3,000 BTU/hr, which happens no matter whether the outside air has a direct or indirect path to the burner. Having a 6" dia permanent leak in the basement is a really inefficient way to do it. There is no good engineering reason to have that leak, unless your basement is hermetically airtight and 25 cfm would depressurize it enough to cause the boiler or water heater or (worst case) an open fireplace to backdraft. This is generally considered to be -5 Pa. Much more likely that a 250 cfm kitchen exhaust hood would do it, assuming that your basement is not sealed from the rest of the house. Clother dryers and bathroom fans also, are in the 100 cfm range.<br></div><div class="gmail_extra"><div><div class="h5"><br><div class="gmail_quote">On Tue, Jan 13, 2015 at 7:43 PM, Benjamin Pratt <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:benjamin.g.pratt@gmail.com" target="_blank">benjamin.g.pratt@gmail.com</a>></span> wrote:<br><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div dir="ltr"><div class="gmail_extra">I have been sealing up and insulating the unfinished portion of my basement, but am concerned it is a waste of time and money: There is a 6" fresh air duct to provide proper combustion for the boiler. Also, there is no damper on the water heater or boiler. Therefore, a lot of cold air is continually dumped into the basement, and a lot of hot air escapes up the chimney.</div><div class="gmail_extra"> I suppose the solution to this would be to install a new boiler, and to install a direct vent kit on the water heater. The boiler is around 15 years old, and is 84 percent efficient. If I buy a more efficient boiler, that is direct vented, any guess as to how much energy I will save? I suppose its more then just the amount of natural gas I will save with a more efficient boiler, since I would also be eliminating a huge source of air infiltration. I would like to be able to calculate the ROI, so my wife agrees to the purchase.</div><div class="gmail_extra">I'd appreciate any help you can provide.</div><div class="gmail_extra">Thanks,</div><div class="gmail_extra">Ben<br clear="all"><div><div><div dir="ltr"><br><div><br></div><br>b e n j a m i n p r a t t<div><br>professor art+design</div><div>the university of wisconsin stout</div></div></div></div>
<br><div class="gmail_quote">On Tue, Jan 13, 2015 at 3:46 PM, Sacie Lambertson <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:sacie.lambertson@gmail.com" target="_blank">sacie.lambertson@gmail.com</a>></span> wrote:<br><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div dir="ltr"><div style="font-family:verdana,sans-serif;font-size:small">I'm looking for an architect in Seattle who understands energy efficient good building and does contemporary design work. Welcome suggestions. Best to send these off the forum, to me directly. Sacie<br></div></div>
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