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Why fight to feed batts into a cavity situation which sound very
difficult, when pacing the cavities with the same mineral fiber by
blowing would seem a much easier approach?<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 3/27/2015 4:55 PM, Reuben Deumling
wrote:<br>
</div>
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cite="mid:CAE5fceBD+zOYHwdWia=pEVAkFw6bVCedE81dENvv5QNeTwpKpA@mail.gmail.com"
type="cite">
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<div>Two questions. <br>
Were you pushing these batts into a bay the long way
(vertically if this is a wall)? <br>
</div>
What is PPE?<br>
<div><br>
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<div class="gmail_extra"><br>
<div class="gmail_quote">On Fri, Mar 27, 2015 at 6:56 AM, David
Wentling <span dir="ltr"><<a moz-do-not-send="true"
href="mailto:dpwentling@ymail.com" target="_blank">dpwentling@ymail.com</a>></span>
wrote:<br>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0
.8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">Years ago
I needed to install thick batts in openings. To assist me
ensure the batts were square to the opening and not
compressed I created a wooded knife shaped stick. I would
press in one side of the batt along the long edge then swing
the batt into the opening using the ‘knife’ between the batt
edge and the joist or stud. The ‘knife’ allow me to reduce
the friction when sliding next to the wood and provided a
tool to compress the batt the full depth of the batt to
ensure the back edges were square to the opening. We used
unfaced fiberglass.<br>
<br>
The wooden knife was a board about 16” long, more of a small
machete, that was belt sanded to a thin rounded edge and a
rounded handle for easier handling. I had to make several of
the them over the renovation project and used lathe strips
pulled from the house. Looked like a large wooden letter
opener.<br>
<br>
Don’t for get the PPE!<br>
<br>
David<br>
<div>
<div class="h5"><br>
On Mar 25, 2015, at 2:34 PM, Reuben Deumling <<a
moz-do-not-send="true" href="mailto:9watts@gmail.com">9watts@gmail.com</a>>
wrote:<br>
<br>
The situation is as follows:<br>
a ceiling with 7-1/4"x14" bays, 11 feet deep<br>
car decking below, fir T&G flooring above, rough
sawn 2x8s in between.<br>
<br>
I can get Rockwool/Roxul batts that are the right height
and will figure out a way to trim them to the right
width. My question is whether anyone has a suggestion
about how to devise a sleeve or baffle to reduce the
considerable friction all those rough sawn or at least
not particularly smooth surfaces will present to the
batts being shoved horizontally through those bays?<br>
I expect to be able to access both ends for this
purpose, which should increase the options for
friction-reducing aids.<br>
<br>
Any ideas?<br>
<br>
Thanks very much.<br>
<br>
Reuben<br>
<br>
Oh, and I nixed the blown in cellulose idea because of
the challenges of creating the necessary back pressure
on a bay that deep/long. I'm sure with a suitably
devised baffle that I could gradually back out the
nozzle & this problem could be overcome, but it is
not a large job (11'x12') and the batts seemed easier.<br>
</div>
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