That tung oil doesn't claim to be pure. I've used this pure tung oil with good results<div><span></span><a href="http://www.realmilkpaint.com/products/oils/">http://www.realmilkpaint.com/products/oils/</a><br><br>On Wednesday, May 13, 2015, Frank Tettemer <<a href="mailto:frank@livingsol.com">frank@livingsol.com</a>> wrote:<br><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">Hi Benjamin,<br>
<br>
Sorry; I wasn't very clear.<br>
To be clear, I wasn't referring to any urethane finish; neither water based nor oil base is suitable for my liking. Either one requires boxing up your goods and moving out of the house before sanding and refinishing.<br>
<br>
I would prefer an oil finish, preferably tung based, that requires wiping onThin coats, building up the coats, and topping it with a carnauba/beeswax floor polish. Then the polish takes the wear, and can be re-applied periodically.<br>
<br>
If it waxing maintenence gets away on you, and the wax and the oil wears through, on stairs and corridors, then it needs refinishing. No need to sand. This involves deep scrubbing, to remove all dirt, grease, etc.. Then the oil finish is reapplied, super thin coats. Many coats later, and you are ready to top coat with wax again.<br>
Just as annoying, but at least you don't have to strip or sand before refinishing.<br>
Same treatment for hardwood furniture, turned wooden bowls, jewelry boxes.<br>
<br>
Here's a good quality wax finish: <a href="http://www.eco-house.com/product-category/natural-wood-finishes/wax-finishes/" target="_blank">http://www.eco-house.com/product-category/natural-wood-finishes/wax-finishes/</a>.<br>
<br>
I have furniture that needs re-oiling every half dozen years or so. Our maple flooring has been re-coated with three coats once, since the first application of eight coats about twenty years ago.<br>
Kitchen cabinets are cherry and maple, and have been wiped down and re-oiled a few times in two decades. Same goes for wooden bowls.<br>
<br>
Reuben, I don't know Osmo. Product of USA?<br>
<br>
Gennaro, tung oilships from Lee Valley Tools, <a href="http://www.leevalley.com/en/Wood/page.aspx?p=20051&cat=1,190,42942" target="_blank">http://www.leevalley.com/en/Wood/page.aspx?p=20051&cat=1,190,42942</a> This has directions for controlling the gloss of the finish.<br>
This is the Tung oil, to mix with the above tung oil sealer <a href="http://www.leevalley.com/en/Wood/page.aspx?p=20050&cat=1,190,42942" target="_blank">http://www.leevalley.com/en/Wood/page.aspx?p=20050&cat=1,190,42942</a><br>
<br>
Frank<br>
<br>
<br>
On 13/05/2015 2:08 PM, Benjamin Pratt wrote:<br>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
Frank's point about stripping is very interesting. I am surprised that the water based products require this, since, at least on furniture, you can lightly sand the urethane and it will take more coats easily. If ore stan is required, wouldn't you have to sand off oil based poly as well? Can you elaborate?<br>
Thanks<br>
<br>
<br>
b e n j a m i n p r a t t<br>
<br>
professor art+design<br>
the university of wisconsin stout<br>
<br>
On Wed, May 13, 2015 at 1:02 PM, Reuben Deumling <<a>9watts@gmail.com</a> <mailto:<a>9watts@gmail.com</a>>> wrote:<br>
<br>
Osmo Hardwax Oil?<br>
<br>
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Living Sol ~ Building and Design<br>
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</blockquote></div><br><br>-- <br>Gennaro Brooks-Church<br>Director, Eco Brooklyn Inc.<br>Cell: 1 347 244 3016 USA<br><a href="http://www.EcoBrooklyn.com" target="_blank">www.EcoBrooklyn.com</a><br>22 2nd St; Brooklyn, NY 11231<br><br>