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<div class="moz-cite-prefix">All plumbing connections are inside the
interior of the house except some drain pipes, most of which are
close to the ground. (The house was converted to PEX when we did
reno two years ago on 2 bathrooms and laundry.) There are two gas
lines down there, but both are short runs and I don't think there
are any (or many) connections under the house for those. I think
there is one electric line (to a kitchen island), but we're moving
it, too....it will still be there, but we can at least plan for
that--maybe put it in some conduit? Right NOW there is unused
ductwork down there that we're pulling out in order to do this, so
it will actually make the crawlspace MORE accessible.<br>
<br>
--Leslie<br>
<br>
On 6/12/15 1:36 PM, Benjamin Pratt wrote:<br>
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<div dir="ltr">Lesley,
<div>the only experience I have with crawl spaces in further
south than you. But don't you need to leave plumbing and other
utilities accessible?</div>
<div>Ben</div>
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<div><span style="font-size:12.8000001907349px">b e n
j a m i n p r a t t</span><br>
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<div><br>
professor art+design</div>
<div>the university of wisconsin stout</div>
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<div class="gmail_quote">On Fri, Jun 12, 2015 at 1:18 PM, Frank
Tettemer <span dir="ltr"><<a moz-do-not-send="true"
href="mailto:frank@livingsol.com" target="_blank">frank@livingsol.com</a>></span>
wrote:<br>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0
.8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">Hi Leslie,<br>
<br>
You may want to re-consider the idea of foaming the floor in
a crawl space. My concerns would be that the foam would act
too well as a vapour barrier, and you may have
moisture/mildew problems down the road in the crawl space. I
AM in Canada, so your geographic climate might create
different problems than here.<br>
<br>
I always design any neccessary crawl spaces as a definite
part of the conditioned space of the home. That means
insulating the walls and the floor of the crawl space, and
leaving the floor as a vapour-open plane, as well as
including the crawl space in the heating design. This avoids
condensation trouble, by keeping the air warm and dry.<br>
<br>
Frank<br>
<br>
Frank Tettemer<br>
Living Sol ~ Building and Design<br>
<a moz-do-not-send="true" href="http://www.livingsol.com"
rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">www.livingsol.com</a><br>
<a moz-do-not-send="true" href="tel:613%20756%203884"
value="+16137563884" target="_blank">613 756 3884</a>
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<div class="h5"><br>
<br>
<br>
On 12/06/2015 2:02 PM, Leslie Moyer wrote:<br>
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<div class="h5">
I am in NE Oklahoma. I'm in the process of getting
estimates for crawlspace insulation in the floor
joists--closed cell foam. My crawl space is dry now
that we've fixed some plumbing problems, but I'm
having some cupping issues with some wood flooring and
part of the fiberglass batts that were originally in
the house when we bought it were taken out over time
for this and that. Anyway--closed cell foam seems to
be the best solution.<br>
<br>
The first guy who came this morning wants to quote me
1.5" foam, though said he would quote 2" if that's
what I really want, saying that would be enough for
"Canada". I understand about the benefits of air
sealing, but I was still thinking I would need more
inches of foam according to what I've read on R-value
& this area. Thoughts?<br>
<br>
-- <br>
</div>
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*Leslie Moyer*<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
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<pre wrap="">_______________________________________________
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<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-signature">-- <br>
<b>Leslie Moyer</b>
<br>
Email: <a href="mailto:unschooler@lrec.org">unschooler@lrec.org</a>
<br>
Phone: (918) 772-6150
<br>
Cell: (918) 633-8820
<br>
<br>
Sustainable Tahlequah
<br>
Web: <a href="http://www.SustainableTahlequah.org/">SustainableTahlequah.org</a>
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