<html><head><meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8"></head><body ><div>I have been brainstorming the same concept except I have additional requirements for the heater:</div><div>1) needs to provide the living room ambiance of a traditional firplace when desired.</div><div>2) power a radient floor system if neccessary.</div><div><br></div><div>I guess #2 could be just a large hot water storage used for both dhw and underfloor heating but I believe they require different temp ranges.</div><div><br></div><div>I have a lot of wood and want to burn it in the most efficient, non-poluting way to supply all my requirements. Assume a well insulated, tight envelope (not built yet...dreaming up my retirement home in the mountains of NE PA).</div><div><br></div><div>Will also have plentry of south facing roof area for both PV and solar thermal. Perhaps the solar thermal could be used for the radient heating with the fire for dhw.</div><div><br></div><div>Would love any thoughts...</div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div><div style="font-size:9px;color:#575757">Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S® 5 ACTIVE™, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone</div></div><div></div><br><br>-------- Original message --------<br>From: Norbert Senf <norbert.senf@gmail.com> <br>Date:01/29/2016 8:43 AM (GMT-05:00) <br>To: Green Building <greenbuilding@lists.bioenergylists.org> <br>Cc: <br>Subject: Re: [Greenbuilding] over-insulating <br><br><div dir="ltr"><div><div><div><div><div>This reminds me of an interesting concept from Fairbanks, Alaska:<br>Alaska building researchers have developed a popular super envelope system that reduces your heat load practically to zero. It adds about $100,000 to the cost of conventional 2x4 framing construction up there. A heater mason friend and a plumber colleague developed the following idea, that has been very successful in practice:<br><br></div>- skip the $100,000 envelope add-on<br></div>- use 2x6 framing w, 2" foam on the outside, tight construction, good attic insulation, etc.<br></div>- design in a wood fired masonry heater with a hot water system.<br><br></div>- you now have an extremely clean and efficient fireplace, plus just enough heat load and heat storage that you can fire the masonry heater once a day and have it make all your domestic hot water.<br></div>- domestic hot water is very expensive in Alaska, so you get a great payback.<br></div><div class="gmail_extra"><br><div class="gmail_quote">On Thu, Jan 28, 2016 at 11:52 PM, Reuben Deumling <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:9watts@gmail.com" target="_blank">9watts@gmail.com</a>></span> wrote:<br><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div dir="ltr"><div><div><div>I agree, Bob. <br><br></div>I was using Frank's term, and compared to what is generally recommended (for our climate zone) eleven inches would probably be considered excessive. <br></div>Mostly I posted this little summary because it seems like it confirms my long-standing hunch that you can achieve something along the lines of what is promised in the Passivhaus fine print without spending a mint or using crazy gizmos or materials. <br><br></div>I like heating with wood, and think I'll miss it when it becomes merely an occasional thing, but then there is the weeks and months I don't need to look for, cut and split and stack and haul and restack and move and move again, and make fires every day for 5-6 months of every year....<br></div><div class="HOEnZb"><div class="h5"><div class="gmail_extra"><br><div class="gmail_quote">On Thu, Jan 28, 2016 at 8:45 PM, Bob Waldrop <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:bwaldrop1952@att.net" target="_blank">bwaldrop1952@att.net</a>></span> wrote:<br><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
<div bgcolor="#FFFFFF" text="#000000">
It seems to me that you didn't "over-insulate," instead, you
insulated the "right amount". Ever since we defied all the local
conventional wisdom and put nine inches of insulation into our walls
by insulating the existing walls and then building new walls five
inches inside of the exterior walls and insulating those, we've been
enjoying lower heating and air conditioning bills. Personally, I
think that generally most builders underinsulate businesses and
condemn their occupants to perpetual indenture to utility
companies. <br>
<br>
Bob Waldrop, Okie City<span><br>
<br>
<div>On 1/28/2016 10:17 PM, Gennaro
Brooks-Church - Eco Brooklyn wrote:<br>
</div>
</span><blockquote type="cite"><span>Congrats Ruben on your remodel. Sounds great. <span></span><br>
</span><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
<div dir="ltr">
<div class="gmail_extra">
<br>
<div class="gmail_quote"><span>On Thu, Jan 28, 2016 at 7:04 PM,
Reuben Deumling <span dir="ltr"><<a></a><a href="mailto:9watts@gmail.com" target="_blank">9watts@gmail.com</a>></span> wrote:<br>
</span><span><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
<div dir="ltr">
<div><br>
However...the heating demand for this space is very
nearly zero. The whole house (before this remodel)
burned through about 5 cords/winter and it was never
really cozy. So far this winter my mom's burned a
little over one-tenth of a cord. <br>
<br>
</div>
<div>Reuben<br>
</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>* I know I asked a bunch of questions about this
project of you folks along the way. A belated thank
you to all. <br>
<br>
</div>
<div><br>
</div>
</div>
<br>
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<br>
-- <br>
Sent from Mobile, excuse the brevity.<br>
Gennaro Brooks-Church, Director<br>
Eco Brooklyn<br>
<a href="tel:347-244-3016" value="+13472443016" target="_blank">347-244-3016</a><br>
22 2nd St, BK NY 11231 <br>
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