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You might compare www.indowwindows.com — interior storm windows.<BR>
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</SPAN></FONT><FONT SIZE="1"><FONT FACE="Verdana, Helvetica, Arial"><SPAN STYLE='font-size:9pt'><B>Jason Holstine<BR>
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Amicus Green Building Center<BR>
“Sustain Your Space”<BR>
e: <a href="jason@amicusgreen.com">jason@amicusgreen.com</a><BR>
w: www.amicusgreen.com<BR>
p: 301-571-8590<BR>
tf: 866-587-9140<BR>
f: 301-571-8597<BR>
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On 3/17/16 2:05 PM, "Sacie Lambertson" <<a href="sacie.lambertson@gmail.com">sacie.lambertson@gmail.com</a>> wrote:<BR>
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</SPAN></FONT><BLOCKQUOTE><FONT SIZE="2"><FONT FACE="Verdana, Helvetica, Arial"><SPAN STYLE='font-size:10pt'>Re the windows and the need for storms, I should have mentioned the obvious, of course we will be putting storms over these. <BR>
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Mentioning Pella Windows, I share Rob Tom's distaste for this brand. We installed the high end line of Pella Windows in our current house, many many of these and have had problems with them ever since. While they have a great warranty one that resulted in annual trips to remedy one problem or the other, now the warranty is over, we continue to deal with issues. I will never ever buy Pella Windows again.<BR>
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Speaking of storms, can anyone recommend good looking ones?<BR>
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Thanks again for all the comments. These are appreciated.<BR>
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Sacie<BR>
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On Thu, Mar 17, 2016 at 10:22 AM, Vadurro, Rob, EMNRD <<a href="rob.vadurro@state.nm.us">rob.vadurro@state.nm.us</a>> wrote:<BR>
</SPAN></FONT><BLOCKQUOTE><FONT FACE="Calibri, Verdana, Helvetica, Arial"><SPAN STYLE='font-size:11pt'>You mentioned the windows. I think you’ll find that after taking care of the wall insulation to R-10 to R-20 or so, you’ll be left with a bunch of R-1 or R-2 “holes” in the walls via the windows, not to mention the extra air infiltration. I suggest investing in insulated storm sashes and air sealing would be your best investment at that point.<BR>
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Rob Vadurro, AIA<BR>
Park Architect<BR>
New Mexico State Parks<BR>
1220 South Saint Francis Drive<BR>
Santa Fe, NM 87505<BR>
505-476-3383 <tel:505-476-3383> <BR>
505-476-3361 <tel:505-476-3361> fax<BR>
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<B>From:</B> Greenbuilding [<a href="mailto:greenbuilding-bounces@lists.bioenergylists.org">mailto:greenbuilding-bounces@lists.bioenergylists.org</a>] <B>On Behalf Of </B>Sacie Lambertson<BR>
<B>Sent:</B> Thursday, March 17, 2016 9:04 AM<BR>
<B>To:</B> Green Building <<a href="greenbuilding@lists.bioenergylists.org">greenbuilding@lists.bioenergylists.org</a>><BR>
<B>Subject:</B> Re: [Greenbuilding] best practice<BR>
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THANK YOU all for the many responses. And I'm sorry I didn't fully explain the house redo. We are entirely gutting the 2000 sq ft house. We will be fully/properly insulating the crawl space and the attic. It is only the method of insulating the walls that is up the air.<BR>
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I think the architect/builder/fabricator who did <U>not</U> do the plans for the house is knowledgeable. I am certain he will make sure in the redo, the walls will be tight. Moreover, seems to me a single sheath of <FONT COLOR="#545454">polyiso taped on the inside would be added insurance would it not? And strapped horizontally for drywall. I could sacrifice interior space for the better certainty of a job well done. <BR>
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The big downside to not pulling off that old siding is the possibility of having to repaint it more often than I might like because there is no rainscreen.<BR>
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We are btw, going to reuse the old 2 over 2 windows as well; like the rest of the house these are in good shape. I would be interested if anyone on this list knows about a good mid-west based restoration service. <BR>
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Further comments on both these subjects are welcome. I am paying good attention to those already received.<BR>
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Sacie<BR>
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On Thu, Mar 17, 2016 at 6:39 AM, John Straube <<a href="jfstraube@uwaterloo.ca">jfstraube@uwaterloo.ca</a>> wrote:<BR>
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Very difficult to take such claims seriously: “not worth it” depends entirely on the cost of the doing “it” and what “it” gets you. Too many practical and economic variables to be able to make such a statement.<BR>
Adding insulation between the framing will be massively impacted by thermal bridging. You will have a hard time getting airtightness to the same level as from the exterior. <BR>
But, if you are willing to live with an equivalent R10 wall (after all the thermal bridging at studs partions and floors) and an airtightness probably in the 2-5 ACG@50 range, then ripping apart the entire interior is the cost.<BR>
Removing the exterior siding is also a lot of disruption but the disruption is outdoors. Good design will allow you to get exceptional airtightness, adding just 2” of insulation will get you the same R-10, and you will be able to improve water control so that the house framing lasts a very long time. Add 4” of, say, rockwool/EPS and you get R20, real R-value (nothing in the studspace) or drill holes in exterior sheathing, blow in cellulose, add 4” of rockwool/ EPS and you are now close to real R-30.<BR>
With the reliable and high airtightness, and the uniform high R-value you can now heat or cool this place with small and simple HVAC, and not have to think about upgrading again for another long time…<BR>
In my experience, the performance of the between studs retrofits is always significant less than an exterior wrap, and the difference matters to occupant comfort and energy use in a very noticeable way.<BR>
I guess, though, I am just another design professional in my young 40’s </SPAN></FONT><SPAN STYLE='font-size:11pt'><FONT COLOR="#1F497D"><FONT FACE="Wingdings">J</FONT></FONT><FONT FACE="Calibri, Verdana, Helvetica, Arial"> <BR>
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John<BR>
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<B>From:</B> Greenbuilding [<a href="mailto:greenbuilding-bounces@lists.bioenergylists.org">mailto:greenbuilding-bounces@lists.bioenergylists.org</a>] <B>On Behalf Of </B>Sacie Lambertson<BR>
<B>Sent:</B> March 16, 2016 21:43<BR>
<B>To:</B> Greenbuilding <<a href="Greenbuilding@lists.bioenergylists.org">Greenbuilding@lists.bioenergylists.org</a>><BR>
<B>Subject:</B> [Greenbuilding] best practice<BR>
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A good guy and relatively young architect (in his 40s, 'young' by my standards), tells me it is not worth taking off the siding of an old 1883 house to add insulation and an air space to the outside. He says the added expense is not worth the additional insulation. That the extra R-value above R 23 in walls is thermodynamically not money well spent as long as the house is very tightly constructed in the retro-fit.<BR>
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The siding is original and in very good shape. The interior has full dimensioned 2x4 walls. The rooms are too small for me to want to build a double wall on the interior.<BR>
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What he suggests I do is simply used closed cell foam between the wall framing.<BR>
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I would appreciate your comments please.<BR>
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Sacie<BR>
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