<div dir="ltr">I second Rob's motion for storm windows. I've had excellent thermal experience adding single-glazed wood-framed storm windows to both double and single pane windows. <br></div><div class="gmail_extra"><br><div class="gmail_quote">On Thu, Mar 17, 2016 at 8:22 AM, Vadurro, Rob, EMNRD <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:rob.vadurro@state.nm.us" target="_blank">rob.vadurro@state.nm.us</a>></span> wrote:<br><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
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<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1f497d">You mentioned the windows. I think you’ll find that after taking care of the wall insulation to R-10 to R-20 or so, you’ll be left with a bunch of R-1 or R-2
“holes” in the walls via the windows, not to mention the extra air infiltration. I suggest investing in insulated storm sashes and air sealing would be your best investment at that point.<u></u><u></u></span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1f497d">Rob Vadurro, AIA<u></u><u></u></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1f497d">Park Architect<u></u><u></u></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1f497d">New Mexico State Parks<u></u><u></u></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1f497d">1220 South Saint Francis Drive<u></u><u></u></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1f497d">Santa Fe, NM 87505<u></u><u></u></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1f497d"><a href="tel:505-476-3383" value="+15054763383" target="_blank">505-476-3383</a><u></u><u></u></span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif">From:</span></b><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif"> Greenbuilding [mailto:<a href="mailto:greenbuilding-bounces@lists.bioenergylists.org" target="_blank">greenbuilding-bounces@lists.bioenergylists.org</a>]
<b>On Behalf Of </b>Sacie Lambertson<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Thursday, March 17, 2016 9:04 AM<br>
<b>To:</b> Green Building <<a href="mailto:greenbuilding@lists.bioenergylists.org" target="_blank">greenbuilding@lists.bioenergylists.org</a>><br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Greenbuilding] best practice<u></u><u></u></span></p><div><div class="h5">
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<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:"Verdana",sans-serif">THANK YOU all for the many responses. And I'm sorry I didn't fully explain the house redo. We are entirely gutting the 2000 sq ft house. We will be fully/properly insulating the crawl space
and the attic. It is only the method of insulating the walls that is up the air.</span><u></u><u></u></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:"Verdana",sans-serif"> I think the architect/builder/fabricator who did
<u>not</u> do the plans for the house is knowledgeable. I am certain he will make sure in the redo, the walls will be tight. Moreover, seems to me a single sheath of <span style="color:#545454">polyiso taped on the inside would be added insurance would it
not? And strapped horizontally for drywall. I could sacrifice interior space for the better certainty of a job well done. </span></span><u></u><u></u></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:"Verdana",sans-serif;color:#545454">The big downside to not pulling off that old siding is the possibility of having to repaint it more often than I might like because there is no rainscreen.</span><u></u><u></u></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:"Verdana",sans-serif;color:#545454">We are btw, going to reuse the old 2 over 2 windows as well; like the rest of the house these are in good shape. I would be interested if anyone on this list knows about a good
mid-west based restoration service. </span><u></u><u></u></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:"Verdana",sans-serif;color:#545454">Further comments on both these subjects are welcome. I am paying good attention to those already received.</span><u></u><u></u></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:"Verdana",sans-serif;color:#545454">Sacie</span><u></u><u></u></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal">On Thu, Mar 17, 2016 at 6:39 AM, John Straube <<a href="mailto:jfstraube@uwaterloo.ca" target="_blank">jfstraube@uwaterloo.ca</a>> wrote:<u></u><u></u></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Lucida Sans",sans-serif;color:#1f497d" lang="EN-CA">Very difficult to take such claims seriously: “not worth it” depends entirely on the
cost of the doing “it” and what “it” gets you. Too many practical and economic variables to be able to make such a statement.</span><span lang="EN-CA"><u></u><u></u></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Lucida Sans",sans-serif;color:#1f497d" lang="EN-CA">Adding insulation between the framing will be massively impacted by thermal bridging.
You will have a hard time getting airtightness to the same level as from the exterior.
</span><span lang="EN-CA"><u></u><u></u></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Lucida Sans",sans-serif;color:#1f497d" lang="EN-CA">But, if you are willing to live with an equivalent R10 wall (after all the thermal
bridging at studs partions and floors) and an airtightness probably in the 2-5 ACG@50 range, then ripping apart the entire interior is the cost.</span><span lang="EN-CA"><u></u><u></u></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Lucida Sans",sans-serif;color:#1f497d" lang="EN-CA">Removing the exterior siding is also a lot of disruption but the disruption is outdoors.
Good design will allow you to get exceptional airtightness, adding just 2” of insulation will get you the same R-10, and you will be able to improve water control so that the house framing lasts a very long time. Add 4” of, say, rockwool/EPS and you get R20,
real R-value (nothing in the studspace) or drill holes in exterior sheathing, blow in cellulose, add 4” of rockwool/ EPS and you are now close to real R-30.</span><span lang="EN-CA"><u></u><u></u></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Lucida Sans",sans-serif;color:#1f497d" lang="EN-CA">With the reliable and high airtightness, and the uniform high R-value you can now
heat or cool this place with small and simple HVAC, and not have to think about upgrading again for another long time…</span><span lang="EN-CA"><u></u><u></u></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Lucida Sans",sans-serif;color:#1f497d" lang="EN-CA">In my experience, the performance of the between studs retrofits is always significant
less than an exterior wrap, and the difference matters to occupant comfort and energy use in a very noticeable way.</span><span lang="EN-CA"><u></u><u></u></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Lucida Sans",sans-serif;color:#1f497d" lang="EN-CA">I guess, though, I am just another design professional in my young 40’s
</span><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:Wingdings;color:#1f497d" lang="EN-CA">J</span><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Lucida Sans",sans-serif;color:#1f497d" lang="EN-CA">
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<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Lucida Sans",sans-serif;color:#1f497d" lang="EN-CA">John</span><span lang="EN-CA"><u></u><u></u></span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif">From:</span></b><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif"> Greenbuilding [mailto:<a href="mailto:greenbuilding-bounces@lists.bioenergylists.org" target="_blank">greenbuilding-bounces@lists.bioenergylists.org</a>]
<b>On Behalf Of </b>Sacie Lambertson<br>
<b>Sent:</b> March 16, 2016 21:43<br>
<b>To:</b> Greenbuilding <<a href="mailto:Greenbuilding@lists.bioenergylists.org" target="_blank">Greenbuilding@lists.bioenergylists.org</a>><br>
<b>Subject:</b> [Greenbuilding] best practice</span><span lang="EN-CA"><u></u><u></u></span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:"Verdana",sans-serif" lang="EN-CA">A good guy and relatively young architect (in his 40s, 'young' by my standards), tells me it is not worth taking off
the siding of an old 1883 house to add insulation and an air space to the outside. He says the added expense is not worth the additional insulation. That the extra R-value above R 23 in walls is thermodynamically not money well spent as long as the house
is very tightly constructed in the retro-fit.</span><span lang="EN-CA"><u></u><u></u></span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:"Verdana",sans-serif" lang="EN-CA">The siding is original and in very good shape. The interior has full dimensioned 2x4 walls. The rooms are too small
for me to want to build a double wall on the interior.</span><span lang="EN-CA"><u></u><u></u></span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:"Verdana",sans-serif" lang="EN-CA">What he suggests I do is simply used closed cell foam between the wall framing.</span><span lang="EN-CA"><u></u><u></u></span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:"Verdana",sans-serif" lang="EN-CA">I would appreciate your comments please.</span><span lang="EN-CA"><u></u><u></u></span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:"Verdana",sans-serif" lang="EN-CA">Sacie</span><span lang="EN-CA"><u></u><u></u></span></p>
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