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Tom,<br><br>Since you have already used Joe's book, have you checked his website (buildingscience.com) lately?<br>If not, I suggest you look at his current thinking on what constitutes a "perfect wall". He is continuously evolving his thinking - & still my trusted teacher.<br><br>Specifically, look at the existing layers in the wall, with an eye to drying potential, both to the inside and to the outside. That interior vapor barrier is probably going to limit your options. Minnesota has been one of the areas in which experimenting, teaching and applying building science, so there's probably a better chance that the interior vapor barrier might have been done better than most, but 1982 is very early.<br><br>If it's plastic, cringe. In thirty years of testing and trying to convince builders to avoid the worst pitfalls, I have never seen one done well enough to trust it myself - much less trust it over time. <br><br>Since maintaining a good drying potential will probably be hard without stripping the drywall and reassembling the wall completely, Add enough insulation to protect the framing and insulation from getting to dewpoint temperatures. If you can't control moisture flow, control it's state.<br><br>Were I you, I would, assuming that if the siding is rotting, the subsiding is likely also in trouble and may need replacement as well,<br><br>1) Find an energy rater (check the RESNET site; they're listed by state and locality. Again, I'd expect them to be easy to find in Minnesota)to work with, and back stop, you.<br>2) inspect the existing insulation to be sure it fits snugly on all sides and is cut to fit around electrical boxes and other things in the wall; add a layer to the exterior, to assure full contact with the siding.<br>3) depending on the amount of access you have, I'd probably remove batts and re-install them to be sure of full contact against the drywall/VB, and to the subsiding. If no access, file that away for whenever you work on/replace drywall; <br><br>(Assuming the subsiding is good, 1&2 are largely my idealism at work).<br>4) I think adding a layer of continuous sheet foam, over the subsiding, is basic - but for the drying issue. As is standing the siding off the drain plane on thin verticals (or Joe's current alternative - I haven't re-read his perfect wall in a while (got to do that - thanks for the reminder). Taped - all 6 sides of every sheet - the foam can serve as both drain plane and air barrier.<br><br>You've read Joe, so I'm redundant, but for the record, the problem with interior vapor barriers, is that it's impossible to install them (in the real world) without flaws and leaks (which tend to develop over time anyway). They function as one-way air/moisture valves.<br>I'd still air seal the drywall & trim as well as I could, because air barriers ARE good; both feasible & renewable, if on the interior surface.<br><br>Forgive my running on, Hope it's ofg some use.<br><br>Bob Klahn<br>YSBS in SW Ohio<br><br><br><br><br>I<br><div> </div><div> </div><div id="editor_signature"></div><div>On Monday 12/03/2018 at 4:06 pm, John Salmen wrote: </div><blockquote type="cite"><style>} {font-family:Calibri; panose-1:2 15 5 2 2 2 4 3 2 4;} {font-family:Tahoma; panose-1:2 11 6 4 3 5 4 4 2 4;} /* Style Definitions */ .sw_message p.MsoNormal, .sw_message li.MsoNormal, {margin:0cm; margin-bottom:.0001pt; font-size:12.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman","serif";} .sw_message a:link, {mso-style-priority:99; color:blue; text-decoration:underline;} .sw_message a:visited, {mso-style-priority:99; color:purple; text-decoration:underline;} {mso-style-type:personal-reply; font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"; color:black;} {mso-style-type:export-only; font-size:10.0pt;} {size:612.0pt 792.0pt; margin:72.0pt 72.0pt 72.0pt 72.0pt;} {page:WordSection1;} --></style><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--><div><div class="WordSection1"><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:'Calibri','sans-serif';color:black">Hi<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:'Calibri','sans-serif';color:black">First thing is figure out why the original siding is rotted and fix that (leaks, ground splashback, exposure, etc).<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:'Calibri','sans-serif';color:black">Btwn 4 and 5 should be a rainscreen of some sort<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:'Calibri','sans-serif';color:black">If a rainscreen is installed then fiberboard might be acceptable (condensation issues with metal siding could cause some issues with the rainscreen contact area)<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a target="_blank"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:'Calibri','sans-serif';color:black"><o:p> </o:p></span></a></p><div><div style="border:none;border-top:solid #B5C4DF 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0cm 0cm 0cm"><p class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:'Tahoma','sans-serif'">From:</span></b><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:'Tahoma','sans-serif'"> Greenbuilding [mailto:greenbuilding-bounces@lists.bioenergylists.org] <b>On Behalf Of </b>Tom & Deb Wiprud<br><b>Sent:</b> Monday, March 12, 2018 12:55 PM<br><b>To:</b> greenbuilding@lists.bioenergylists.org<br><b>Subject:</b> [Greenbuilding] Residing a home in Minnesota<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p><div><div><div><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:'Calibri','sans-serif';color:black">I have a question for this group. I am purchasing a 1982 rambler with 2x6 walls and a walk out basement. The siding on there now is Masonite colorloc fiberboard siding. It is original siding with no maintenance done to it, and has rot and needs to be replaced. I plan on using Edco steel siding. I will have a contractor do the residing, but I want to be sure it is done right, not the way the contractor has always done it.<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:'Calibri','sans-serif';color:black"> My question is what is the proper way to proceed with this project? Could someone tell me what should I look for and how to make sure it is done correctly. Here is how it is made, from the inside to the outside..<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:'Calibri','sans-serif';color:black"> 1. sheetrock<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:'Calibri','sans-serif';color:black"> 2. vapor barrier<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:'Calibri','sans-serif';color:black"> 3. fiberglass batt insulation<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:'Calibri','sans-serif';color:black"> 4. fiberboard or plywood (not sure yet)<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:'Calibri','sans-serif';color:black"> 5, colorloc siding<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:'Calibri','sans-serif';color:black"> Should any more insulation be installed or a house wrap installed? Any other ideas that I missed to make it a little more energy efficient? Thanks Tom<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div></div></div></div>_______________________________________________<br>Greenbuilding mailing list<br>to Send a Message to the list, use the email address<br>Greenbuilding@bioenergylists.org<br><br>to UNSUBSCRIBE or Change your List Settings use the web page<br><a target="_blank" href="http://lists.bioenergylists.org/mailman/listinfo/greenbuilding_lists.bioenergylists.org">http://lists.bioenergylists.org/mailman/listinfo/greenbuilding_lists.bioenergylists.org</a><br></blockquote><br>
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