[Stoves] tuning a new stove

[Tuan Anh]

David,

Can you try to keep primary air fully open then fully closed, if nothing change, probably your coffee ground is too fine and block all primary air.

Anh

On Mar 26, 2014 8:09 AM, David Young <dyoung at pobox.com> wrote:
>
> On Tue, Mar 25, 2014 at 04:51:34PM -0500, David Young wrote: 
> > I have been thinking about the variables that I can adjust to improve 
> > the stove's performance, and there are a lot: I can add more secondary 
> > air holes (or try to plug some up), remove the secondary-air preheater, 
> > shorten the preheater, create a gap between the primary chamber and the 
> > secondary with a wire, extend the chimney by a few inches above the 
> > preheater, etc.  Any advice what to try, first? 
>
> I found a little time to test this evening.  Performance was a lot like 
> last night: a blue flame with yellow tips formed and grew taller.  The 
> flame went out and spontaneously re-lit a few times.  Eventually the 
> interval between losing flame and re-lighting grew long enough that the 
> stove was without flame more often than not, and I started re-lighting 
> with a match. 
>
> Suspecting that the wood gas was overwhelming the secondary air and 
> putting out the flame, I closed the primary air aperture completely. 
> Then I added a chimney about two inches tall (made from a bit of 
> 18-ounce can leftover from constructing the stove).  That stabilized the 
> flame for a while.  I found that removing the chimney had a dramatic 
> effect: where previously the flame licked the top of the chimney, it 
> receded into the combustion chamber when I took the chimney off. 
>
> I have noticed that the flame is diffuse at the bottom of the combustion 
> chamber, but it forms a narrow tube or a ribbon before it exits the 
> chamber.  It seems like I should strive to break that tube/ribbon up and 
> shorten the combustion zone by adding air, mixing turbulence, or both. 
>
> Dave 
>
> -- 
> David Young 
> dyoung at pobox.com    Urbana, IL    (217) 721-9981 
>
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