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<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>Dear Otto</FONT></DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="FONT: 10pt arial; BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=formo-o@online.no href="mailto:formo-o@online.no">Otto Formo</A>
</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=kchisholm@ca.inter.net
href="mailto:kchisholm@ca.inter.net">Kevin</A> ; <A
title=stoves@lists.bioenergylists.org
href="mailto:stoves@lists.bioenergylists.org">Discussion of biomass cooking
stoves</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Tuesday, December 07, 2010 3:16
AM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> SV: [Stoves] Drawing down the
dung pile</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV>Dear "Dung Fans",<BR>just one question from a none dung "expert":<BR>I
have always been wondering how and why you add water in a dry "fuel" -
dung?</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial># The idea is that dung is an excellent
fertilizer resource, that is destroyed by burning, and in teh process of
burning, the "un-refined dung" burns with relative difficulty, to create
health hazards that are worse than most other fuels.</FONT></DIV><FONT size=2
face=Arial></FONT>
<DIV><BR>As a forester and a common man born in a cold climate, Iam always
focused to cut my firewood in late winter or early spring due to the fact to
utilize the rising sun and the dry northly winds to make sure my firewood will
be of the best quality for the harsh winter to come.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial># The idea here is to remove the beneficial
fertilizers from teh "raw dung resource" and use them productively in
agriculture, and then dry and shape the processed dung for use as a superior
fuel.</FONT></DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT>
<DIV><BR>Dung from moose is fairly dry and burns perfectly in the "PekoPe"
after a few days in the sun.<BR>Iam staying close to the Sami people and they
are very clever to "survive" in our unpredicable and shifting climate.<BR>They
mange to lid "wet" or fresh firewood straigt from the trees, frozen ones I
belive.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial># Dungs from different animals would be
different, because of their different foods, and different digestive systems.
In the case of Moose, and possibly Deer, they would probably have a dung with
a higher lignin content, because of eating woody foods. Chicken manure, for
example would probably have a much higher dioxin output, in that their
urine and fecal matter are dropped as a mixture. </FONT><BR> <BR>I
have been imformed from Haiti that, Clinton`s "One Cent" solution has some
problems to ignite well and dont burn very efficient.<BR>Can anyone confirim
that?</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial># I do not know how well the "One Cent Solution"
works, or if there are any unusual hazards associated with its products of
combustion. If their main thrust was on making a cheap fuel, perhaps there is
an opportunity for Stovers to develop an improved stove for burning the One
Cent Briquettes?</FONT><BR><BR>Just one suggestion or "advice":<BR>Why dont
you use "any type" of suitable biomass as binder? <BR><BR>Paal has tested all
kind of biomass in Africa, just ask him.<BR>From (Norway and) Africa we are
used to listen to elders advice and respect their experiences in
life.<BR></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial># It would indeed be very helpful to know Paal's
views on dioxins from dung combustion.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>Best wishes,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>Kevin (aka "Dr. Dung.")</FONT></DIV><FONT size=2
face=Arial></FONT></BLOCKQUOTE>
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<DIV><BR>Otto<BR><BR>> From: Kevin [kchisholm@ca.inter.net]<BR>> Sent:
2010-12-07 06:48:45 MET<BR>> To: Discussion of biomass cooking stoves
[stoves@lists.bioenergylists.org]<BR>> Subject: Re: [Stoves] Drawing down
the dung pile<BR>> <BR>> Dear Crispin<BR>> <BR>> The basic
concept I propose is as follows:<BR>> <BR>> 1: Slurry the dung with
water<BR>> <BR>> 2: Filter the water and any solubles and press the
remaining dung cake.<BR>> <BR>> 3: Shape and dry the remaining dung
cake<BR>> <BR>> <BR>> <BR>> 1: Slurry the dung:<BR>> <BR>>
Mix the dung with water, to an "adequate" degree of dilution, such that most
of the solubles will be dissolve in the wash water. If water is readily
available, and if there is a large need for irrigation water for agriculture,
then single stage washing can probably be used. If water is scarce, and if the
scale of operation is small, it might be better to do a "two stage wash",
<BR>> <BR>> <BR>> <BR>> 2: Filtering<BR>> <BR>> Separation
of the water from the slurry can be done in a number of ways. The first stage
of water and solubles separation is probably best done by simple decantation.
Floating material can be skimmed off the top, and relatively clear liquid can
then be drained off. However, it should be filtered through cloth, to ensure
that a clear liquid is produced, if the manure tea is to be used in a
"fertigation system" involving relatively small distribution nozzles that may
be prone to plugging. The remaining bottom material will still be very wet,
and is probably best dewatered using a filter press system, or filter bags.
<BR>> <BR>> <BR>> <BR>> 3: Shaping the washed dung.<BR>>
<BR>> Depending on the desired end use, the moist washed dung can then be
shaped to the desired final shape, and then dried. Obviously, many shapes are
possible:<BR>> <BR>> * Briquettes<BR>> <BR>> * Pellets<BR>>
<BR>> * Sheets<BR>> <BR>> * Etc.<BR>> <BR>> <BR>> <BR>>
The washed dung will tend to be high in lignin, and relatively low in
cellulose, in that the animal would have digested much of the original
cellulose in the feed. Depending on the degree of washing and the
characteristics of the washed dung, it may, or may not have sufficient binders
to hold the washed dung together in the desired shape. Experimental work would
be necessary to determine if added binders would be required, and quantities
required. <BR>> <BR>> <BR>> <BR>> Following are my comments on the
replies received to date....<BR>> <BR>> ----- Original
Message ----- <BR>> From: Crispin Pemberton-Pigott
<BR>> To: 'Discussion of biomass cooking stoves'
<BR>> Sent: Monday, December 06, 2010 1:48
PM<BR>> Subject: Re: [Stoves] Drawing down the dung
pile<BR>> <BR>> <BR>> Dear Doctor Dung<BR>>
<BR>> <BR>> <BR>> The offer is welcome.
Perhaps the answer is to briquette it then, using the process to wash it.
Leach, I can see, standing in a perforated container.<BR>> <BR>>
<BR>> <BR>> # I would suggest that teh washing must be done
before briquetting. Frank (see below) suggests one good looking way to wash
teh dung.<BR>> <BR>> <BR>> <BR>>
Water is often a simultaneous constraint but there will be places where dung
and water are available, which means a market.<BR>> <BR>> <BR>>
<BR>> # The process would be of greatest advantage in
connection with a farming operation, where the leached solubles can be
productively used for both watering and fertilizing of crops. If tehre is not
such a farming use for the washed solubles, then there could be a significant
disposal problem.<BR>> <BR>> <BR>>
<BR>> Remember that in this region the stoves will all have a
chimney because space heating is desperately required. Leakage will be a more
important consideration than emissions (though obviously I favour reducing
emissions as well).<BR>> <BR>> <BR>> <BR>> # This
would certainly be helpful for the occupants inside teh house, but if a lot of
dung is being burned, and if the location is prone to inversions, where teh
smoke "hangs low", then there could be a community pollution problem.<BR>>
<BR>> <BR>> <BR>> <BR>> <BR>>
<BR>> ----- Original Message ----- <BR>> From:
"frank" <frank@compostlab.com><BR>> To: "Discussion of
biomass cooking stoves"
<stoves@lists.bioenergylists.org><BR>> Sent: Monday,
December 06, 2010 2:01 PM<BR>> Subject: Re: [Stoves] Drawing
down the dung pile<BR>> <BR>> <BR>> Stovers,<BR>>
<BR>> I have washed a lot of dung and compost. We like to have
it clean : ) <BR>> When doing weed seed testing we wash out all
the salts and soluble <BR>> organics that, if remained, can
make the mix go anaerobic. We wash until <BR>> the electrical
conductivity is less than 1 mmhos/cm. Then place the mud <BR>>
on a bed of sand to let drain and air both above and below. Then add
<BR>> seeds to one corner to make sure if there were weed seeds
they have the <BR>> conditions to grow.<BR>> <BR>>
<BR>> <BR>> # It is the soluble salts and organics that are
teh most valuable agricultural nutrients. I am guessing that teh soluble
organics would have a tendancy to hold water and slow the natural drying of
dung. Removing them from teh remaining fiber should allow easier drying.
Washing to give a conductivity of less than 1 mmhos/cm would certainly be
necessary in a repeatable test, but such repeatable results may not be
required when the end product is intended for fuel.<BR>>
<BR>> The washing is done by the following: Place dung in a
five gallon <BR>> bucket., fill with water and mix. Prepare a
smaller plastic bucket by <BR>> cutting out the bottom , duct
tape a fine mesh screen over the bottom. <BR>> With up-N-down
motion move the smaller bucked down through the muddy <BR>>
water. The up-N-down keeps the screen clean. The water that goes into
<BR>> the small bucket is removed by a smaller bucket until as
much of the <BR>> water as possible is removed. Then repeat the
process until the water is <BR>> clear or the EC is below one
mmhos/cm.<BR>> <BR>> <BR>> <BR>> # This sounds like a
very good basic process.Cheap and simple.<BR>> <BR>> <BR>>
<BR>> ----- Original Message ----- <BR>> From:
<psanders@ilstu.edu><BR>> To: "Discussion of biomass
cooking stoves" <stoves@lists.bioenergylists.org>; "Crispin
Pemberton-Pigott" <crispinpigott@gmail.com><BR>> Cc:
<wastemin1@verizon.net>; "Stoves"
<stoves@lists.bioenergylists.org><BR>> Sent: Monday,
December 06, 2010 6:26 PM<BR>> Subject: Re: [Stoves] Drawing
down the dung pile<BR>> <BR>> <BR>> > Dear Crispin,
Kevin, Frank and all,<BR>> > <BR>> > I
have read the later responses, and I like the "washing", but only if
<BR>> > it is clearly shown that a type of dung (each type
to be considered <BR>> > separately) does emit "bad
stuff" if not washed. Or wash it if <BR>> >
nutient value for plants is shown to make it worthwhile.<BR>> <BR>>
<BR>> <BR>> # I don't have specific references to
investigations showing that "dung fuel is hazardous", but I do know that
combustion of organic materials containing chl;orides will produce dioxins. I
have seen somewhere that there is a high incidence of blindness among elderly
Indian Women who have tended dung fires. Manure tea is well known for its
advantages to agriculture.<BR>> > <BR>> >
Otherwise, the extra work (and water that might not be plentiful)
<BR>> > could make dung fuel to be too much trouble to be
well utilized widely.<BR>> <BR>> <BR>> <BR>> # Good
point. There must be clear and palpable benefits from teh extra effort
required to wash the dung. Such benefits could include:<BR>>
<BR>> 1: Better burning fuel<BR>> <BR>> 2:
valuable fertilizer benefit<BR>> <BR>> 3: Cleaner and more
acceptable fuel, less liable to harbour insects and pests, easier to handle,
etc.<BR>> <BR>> 4: Health benefit<BR>>
<BR>> 5: Higher calorific value per pound or kg of fuel, due to
higher lignin content.<BR>> <BR>> 6: Others?
<BR>> > <BR>> > Washed or not, I like dung
fuel, have used it a little in India, and <BR>> >
would like to be part of the team.<BR>> <BR>> <BR>>
<BR>> # It seems a shame to burn the fertilizer components of
manure.<BR>> > <BR>> > In case you
couldn't guess, my interest is in using dung fuel in TLUDs
<BR>> > (of various designs). Because TLUDs need
"chunky dry biomass", I <BR>> > will work on having
appropriate sizes. Here are some initial thoughts:<BR>>
> <BR>> > 1. Llama dung is the right size, as is
the size from sheep and some <BR>> > other
animals. "Correct size" dung should not be washed (unless shown
<BR>> > to be with undesirable emissions. And that
refers to the emissions <BR>> > from TLUDs that have
great abilities for nearly eliminating CO and PM. <BR>>
> But does the other "bad stuff" get through the TLUD fire? Not
yet <BR>> > studied, as far as I know.<BR>>
<BR>> <BR>> <BR>> # A major objection to Municipal Solid
Waste Incinerators comes from tehir production of dioxins. This is well
documented. Dioxins can be removed from such gas streams, but a special
"dioxin capture system" is required. If TLUD's burn a fuel containing
chlorides, tehy will definitely produce dioxins, and if teh TLUD's do not have
a dioxin capture system, they will indeed be releasing
dioxins.<BR>> > <BR>> > 2. Llamas
have the nice habit of pooping in just a few locations.
<BR>> > Easy to collect it. And it is already in use
widely in the high Andes <BR>> > mountains area.
And llamas as "luxury animals" or pets or for fine <BR>>
> hair fibers are now found in the Affluent societies, so there is
<BR>> > moderate access to the dung for experimental
purposes.<BR>> <BR>> <BR>> <BR>> # Certainly, this
behaviour pattern can be used to great advantage. However, to eliminate the
dioxin concern, teh well shaped llama and sheep poo would have to be washed,
and in tgeh process, this initial shape advanyage would be
lost.<BR>> > <BR>> > 3. For TLUDs.
in India we made dung tablets. Could work also with
<BR>> > washed dung, maybe even better if washed. And
it can be mixed with <BR>> > sawdust or rice husks or
other small-particle biomass that could even <BR>> >
be wet/green because the tablets need to be dried. The dung (or
<BR>> > mixture) is spread out on a firm flat surface
(board, cement, asphalt, <BR>> > whatever) about 1 to
3 cm thick. While wet, it is "scored" or <BR>> >
imprinted with the edge of a piece of metal (like a license plate) or
<BR>> > wood form. The imprints are parallel and about
3 to 6 cm apart, and <BR>> > then again imprinted
perpendicular to the first lines. When the dung
<BR>> > is dry, the tablets hang together in pieces with 4
to 8 tablets <BR>> > together. Can be turned
with a spatula (a large one) for drying on <BR>> > the
bottom. When fully dried, they are placed into bags or
boxes. <BR>> > the user finishes breaking them
into the individual tablets when <BR>> > placing the
fuel into the TLUD (or other stove.).<BR>> <BR>> <BR>>
<BR>> # As mentioned initially, teh washing process may remove
natural binder substances, and replacement binders may be required.
<BR>> > <BR>> > So, let's have an outline
of a plan of actions. Do it on the Stoves <BR>>
> Listserv in case we can attract a few more
participants.<BR>> > <BR>> > Paul
"Dr. TLUD"<BR>> > Proud to be working with "Captain Dung" or
what was Kevin's name?<BR>> <BR>> <BR>> <BR>>
Aheeem... "Dr. Dung." ;-) This is in addition to my other titles of "Dr Poo",
where I fixed a sewage treatment plant, and "Dr. Slime" where I showed a
friend how to eliminate slime from her fish pond.<BR>> >
<BR>> <BR>> <BR>> <BR>> ----- Original Message -----
<BR>> From: <ajheggie@gmail.com><BR>> To:
"Discussion of biomass cooking stoves"
<stoves@lists.bioenergylists.org><BR>> Sent: Monday,
December 06, 2010 6:42 PM<BR>> Subject: Re: [Stoves] Drawing
down the dung pile<BR>> <BR>> <BR>> > On Monday 06
December 2010 17:22:14 Kevin wrote:<BR>> >
<BR>> >><BR>> >> Years and years
ago, I started a thread about using dung fuels and<BR>>
>> interest in it was very conspicuous by its
absence.<BR>> > <BR>> > The my first swirl
stove which I demonstrated to Ronal when he was here in <BR>>
> 2002 was fabricated in order to burn dung, I had a snappy name for
<BR>> > it ;-). Horse dung is a problem here because the
small fields used <BR>> > for "horseyculture" become horse
sick from overgrazing and stabled horses <BR>> > produce
dunged bedding which the owners are not in a position to deal
<BR>> > with. Often because they are bedded on woodflakes
the stable owners burn <BR>> > the heap in a smouldering
mass with a characteristic sickly sweet smell. <BR>> > One
of the reasons I looked at the problem was because heavy stocking led
<BR>> > to parasitic worm infestations, some of the
anthelmic treatments also <BR>> > killed earth worms. So
some owners would even collect the dung from the <BR>> >
fields.<BR>> > <BR>> # Reduction of such
disease and parasite problems could be another benefit to clooecting dung, and
washing it for fuel. However, this might concentrate teh problem. On teh other
hand, if the pathogens "stayed with the washed dung", then they would end up
being disposed of by burning <BR>> > <BR>>
> <BR>> >> From what I can <BR>>
>> understand, dung fuels are about the worst possible fuel, "as
is",<BR>> >> because of moisture and chlorides. Moisture
makes for difficult<BR>> >> burning, <BR>>
> <BR>> > Yes often over the 80 odd % that means the
energy needed to volatilise the <BR>> > moisture exceeds the
heat available in the fuel.<BR>> <BR>> <BR>> <BR>> #
If the dung is sun dried before being burned, teh problem will be
significantly lessened<BR>> > <BR>> >
<BR>> >> and chlorides make dioxins. <BR>>
> <BR>> > I agree dioxins must have chlorine but I
thought the route was via the <BR>> > break down of an
organic chloride rather than the dissociation of an <BR>> >
mineral chloride.<BR>> <BR>> <BR>> <BR>> # No. Dioxins
are formed at the "tail end of the combustion process", when the liberated
chlorides, from either organic or inorganic sources, recombine with products
of incomplete production.<BR>> > <BR>> >
<BR>> >> I advocated washing the dung, to extract the
solubles, and then using<BR>> >> the water extract as a
liquid fertilizer. Then dry the residue, for use<BR>> >>
as a fuel. It should then be a superior fuel to wood, in that it
would<BR>> >> have a higher percentage of lignin, which
has a higher heating value<BR>> >> per pound than
cellulostic biomass.<BR>> > <BR>> >
<BR>> > Even better if the dung has been through an
anaerobic process first, then <BR>> > all the volatile
solids are gone, the soluble minerals are in the "tea" <BR>>
> but how to separate the solid from the tea, drying is no good as this
<BR>> > would leave the minerals in the dried sludge. A
farmer friend of mine <BR>> > with an anaerobic digester for
his dairy herd has a separator but I have <BR>> > no idea
how it works, the output still looks pretty wet.<BR>> <BR>> <BR>>
<BR>> # Anaerobic digestion will, of course, yield methane as a
fuel. The discharge from such a digester has all teh mineral nutrients, and
all the lignin from the animal feed. However, it is a problem operating a
thermophyllic or mesophyllic digester in cold climate situations. Frank's
method (above) or some variant, could seperate out the liquid from teh
anaerobic sludge, for direct field application.<BR>>
>><BR>> >> Leaching the solubles from the "raw
dung" should remove the chlorides,<BR>> >> and should
virtually eliminate the creation of dioxins, while at the<BR>>
>> same time, produce an excellent fertilizer solution, containing Ca,
P,<BR>> >> K, and organics beneficial to plant growth....
hormones, proteins, and<BR>> >> nitrogen
compounds.<BR>> > <BR>> > Yes this is what
I would hope for.<BR>> <BR>> <BR>> <BR>> Yes, it does
work, as evidenced by teh success of those using "manure tea."<BR>>
<BR>> <BR>> <BR>> <BR>> <BR>> ----- Original
Message ----- <BR>> From: "frank"
<frank@compostlab.com><BR>> To: "Discussion of biomass
cooking stoves" <stoves@lists.bioenergylists.org><BR>>
Cc: <wastemin1@verizon.net><BR>> Sent: Monday, December
06, 2010 7:07 PM<BR>> Subject: Re: [Stoves] Drawing down the
dung pile<BR>> <BR>> <BR>> > Paul and
all,<BR>> > <BR>> > When washing dung most
disappears in the wash water. So you are left <BR>> >
with a fraction of what you started with and a lot of anaerobic solution
<BR>> > that will need aeration to stable before a lot can
be applied.<BR>> <BR>> <BR>> <BR>> # Since manure is
applied directly to soil without an aerobic treatment, why couldn't the manure
tea be directly applied without aeration?<BR>> >
<BR>> > The minerals in dung (not washed) will convert to
carbonate (CaCO3, <BR>> > NaCO3 etc) form so there
will be more liming of the soil if the salts <BR>> > are not
washed out (I think this is what happens). This not necessarily
<BR>> > a bad thing. If heated higher it may go to
oxides. The oxides are more <BR>> > of a problem
because there is no buffering to keep the pH from going too
<BR>> > high when applied in high amounts.<BR>> <BR>>
<BR>> <BR>> # I would think that the main soluble minerals
in dung would be sodium and potassium chlorides. There may be a danger in very
dry areas of sodium buildup in the soils.<BR>> >
<BR>> > The more minerals may cause more deposit in the
stove as a crust. Has <BR>> > this been seen in our
small stoves? I have ashed a lot of organic <BR>> > biomass
material at 550 deg C and found a very small fraction of samples
<BR>> > form more than an ash that is easily removed from
the container.<BR>> <BR>> <BR>> <BR>> I don't know
enough about teh mineral constituents of dungs. Burning tests using teh washed
dung would quickly show if ash was a concern.<BR>> <BR>>
<BR>> ----- Original Message -----
<BR>> From: Anand Karve
<BR>> To: Discussion of biomass cooking stoves
<BR>> Sent: Monday, December 06, 2010 11:32
PM<BR>> Subject: Re: [Stoves] Drawing down the dung
pile<BR>> <BR>> <BR>> Dear
Crispin,<BR>> dung cakes are regularly used as fuel
even in India. In areas where the rainfall is scanty, and there are no trees,
dung is used as the main cooking fuel. In the high Himalaya, above the tree
line, yak dung is the only fuel available to the locals. The ash content of
dung is normally very high. In the case of animals eating mainly grass, the
ash would consist mainly of silica. I have heard of a of filter press, which
can remove the water from the dung along with the dissolved minerals. This
would leave a product with a higher calorific value. It can be
briquetted and sold as a standard fuel.<BR>>
<BR>> # While the ash content might be high, that
would only be a concern if it caused slagging. Washing teh dung would remove
teh soluble minerals, which usually act as fluxes, lowering the ash melting
temperature. <BR>>
Yours<BR>> A.D.Karve<BR>> <BR>>
<BR>> ----- Original Message -----
<BR>> From: Richard Stanley
<BR>> To: Discussion of biomass cooking
stoves <BR>> Sent: Tuesday, December
07, 2010 12:21 AM<BR>> Subject: Re:
[Stoves] Drawing down the dung pile<BR>> <BR>>
<BR>> AD, Crispin, Frank, Kevin
and all others concerned with dung briquettes, <BR>> <BR>>
<BR>> While in Arusha Tanzania
recently, I discovered that one of the lead briquette trainers in Kenya,
Francis Kavita, has been teaching the Masaai how to make co dung briquettes
for the past several months. Your insights, Kevin and frank about
carcinogens/ chloride blindness etc are intersting and I have duely passed
them on to Francis. <BR>>
As to dilution of nasty compounds the normal wet low pressure briquetting
process uses water--- but rarely is anything wasted in the process. The water
expelled for the cylinder on compression, is recycled as well. <BR>>
<BR>> # OK! Such recycling of teh "wash
water" or "manure tea" would give a tea of higher concentration, and this
could be advantageous in areas where water is scarce.<BR>> <BR>>
<BR>> However the practice of washing
away unwanted elements is common to briquetters as it is to conventional
washing of seeds, beans cassava and other plant material in traditional
food preparation. In briquetting, certain carcinogenic and foul smelling
glues in certain types of cartonboard are diluted nad washed off this way.
There is no real reason that the same technique could be applied for preparing
"clean cow dung" as well.<BR>>
Will revert back to the group with what Francis says about all
this..when he next finds a nearby internet cafe with electricity or at
least petrol for their generator. <BR>>
<BR>> # Yes, it would be helpful to
have his feedback.<BR>> <BR>> Thanks
again though for the insights.<BR>>
Richard Stanley<BR>> <BR>> Best
wishes,<BR>> <BR>> Kevin Chisholm,
aka "Dr. Dung."<BR>> > <BR>>
<BR>> <BR>> <BR>> From:
stoves-bounces@lists.bioenergylists.org
[mailto:stoves-bounces@lists.bioenergylists.org] On Behalf Of
Kevin<BR>> Sent: 07 December 2010 01:22<BR>> To:
Discussion of biomass cooking stoves<BR>> Subject: Re: [Stoves]
Drawing down the dung pile<BR>> <BR>> <BR>>
<BR>> Dear Crispin<BR>> <BR>> <BR>>
<BR>> Years and years ago, I started a thread about using dung
fuels and interest in it was very conspicuous by its absence. From what I can
understand, dung fuels are about the worst possible fuel, "as is", because of
moisture and chlorides. Moisture makes for difficult burning, and chlorides
make dioxins. Also, the very people who are so desperate as to need to burn
dung for fuels are usually the same people who are equivalently desperate for
fertilizer. I understand also that blindness is very common with Indian Women
who have been using dung fuels.<BR>> <BR>> <BR>>
<BR>> I advocated washing the dung, to extract the solubles,
and then using the water extract as a liquid fertilizer. Then dry the residue,
for use as a fuel. It should then be a superior fuel to wood, in that it would
have a higher percentage of lignin, which has a higher heating value per pound
than cellulostic biomass.<BR>> <BR>> <BR>>
<BR>> Leaching the solubles from the "raw dung" should remove
the chlorides, and should virtually eliminate the creation of dioxins, while
at the same time, produce an excellent fertilizer solution, containing Ca, P,
K, and organics beneficial to plant growth.... hormones, proteins, and
nitrogen compounds.<BR>> <BR>> <BR>>
<BR>> I'd be glad to work with you, in developing a "dung
washing system.". I think it could help with both fuel and fertilizer
needs<BR>> <BR>> <BR>> <BR>> Best
wishes,<BR>> <BR>> <BR>> <BR>> Kevin
Chisholm, aka "Doctor Dung." :-)<BR>> <BR>> <BR>> <BR>>
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<P class=avgcert align=left color="#000000">No virus found in this
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Database: 426/3301 - Release Date: 12/06/10</P></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>