<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML xmlns:o = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office"><HEAD>
<META content="text/html; charset=UTF-8" http-equiv=Content-Type>
<META name=GENERATOR content="MSHTML 8.00.6001.18928"></HEAD>
<BODY style="FONT-FAMILY: Arial; COLOR: #000000; FONT-SIZE: 10pt" id=role_body
bottomMargin=7 leftMargin=7 rightMargin=7 topMargin=7><FONT id=role_document
color=#000000 size=2 face=Arial>
<DIV>In a message dated 8/5/2011 11:31:32 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
crispinpigott@gmail.com writes:</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>DD: Dan Dimiduk comments</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="BORDER-LEFT: blue 2px solid; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px"><FONT
style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" color=#000000 size=2 face=Arial>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri','sans-serif'; COLOR: #1f497d; FONT-SIZE: 11pt"
lang=EN-US>Dear DD<o:p></o:p></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri','sans-serif'; COLOR: #1f497d; FONT-SIZE: 11pt"
lang=EN-US><o:p> </o:p></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri','sans-serif'; COLOR: #1f497d; FONT-SIZE: 11pt"
lang=EN-US>></SPAN><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Arial','sans-serif'; COLOR: black; FONT-SIZE: 10pt"
lang=EN-US> </SPAN><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Arial','sans-serif'; COLOR: black; FONT-SIZE: 10pt">As
hot secondary combustion takes place, the stove pipe expands from 6" to 8"
diameter five feet up. This expansion causes additional suction. By allowing
additional room at this key point, the expanding gasses do not have to create
back pressure on the draft.<o:p></o:p></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Arial','sans-serif'; COLOR: black; FONT-SIZE: 10pt"><o:p> </o:p></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Arial','sans-serif'; COLOR: black; FONT-SIZE: 10pt">That
seems <I>really</I> unlikely, unless there are flames burning in the chimney
at that point. If it slows the gas speed and allows additional heat to come
off the larger diameter tube into the greenhouse, it is actually reducing the
total draft.</FONT></P></BLOCKQUOTE>
<DIV class=WordSection1>DD Yes, when the after burner creates that much draft,
the final stages of burn are happening in leaps as the gasses pass through and
above the reversed reducer coupler. It is common to see large flames out the top
of the 16 foot chimney if I am doing a chimney cleaning cycle. To do this I add
pine boards or polyethylene, both of which produce excess flammable gasses
overwhelming the secondary air. I don't do this for a long time because
the black sheet iron pipe upper chimney starts to glow. Kinda scarry in a wooden
framed structure. I do it for a half hour or longer to warm up the stove on
a cold night with the first charge of kindling.</DIV>
<DIV class=WordSection1> The front cooler part of
the stove is " up to temperature" when the stove thermometer exceeds
400F. I keep ruining the magnets putting the thermometers on the back of
my stove and scorching the painted numbers from heat. That is why I measure
the coldest part of the stove. Sometimes even the front get's to the hottest
range of the thermometer.</DIV>
<DIV class=WordSection1> During a prolonged high level
burn such as when I stay with it all night during -10F degree weather or colder.
I usually keep the flame height to about the top of the afterburner. No
additional heat makes it to the greenhouse by increasing at this point. I
have checked flame level with a mirror looking down the pipe from the roof. The
back part of the stove is a dull to cherry red on the outside. It takes a lot of
fuel to keep up with it at this level. If I don't have fuel cut, I often need
the chain saw to keep up because the hand saw gets too tiring. </DIV>
<DIV class=WordSection1> I can burn an eighth cord easily
in 3- 6 hrs. but I have never kept a real accurate track of it.
Probably can burn 2 cu.ft. of loose broken branches stuffed in 15 min.
to 1/2 hr. That is about the capacity of the stove box. Of course there is
much charcoal left which should be deducted to get an accurate BTU count. If I
can get the greenhouse set up on my new lot someday, I intend to be able to
measure everything more accurately.</DIV>
<DIV class=WordSection1> I have had a large unique
burner designed and key parts accumulated for a number of years. I look forward
to being able to develop this prototype and work the kinks out of it. This
larger burner would need tested before being used regularly for heat as the EPA
regulates this size. My goal would be to produce 200,000 to - 400,000 BTU for
sustained periods such as overnight or longer with 1,000,000 BTU peaking for
greenhouse warm up. </DIV>
<DIV class=WordSection1> Right now is a tense time
because I am forced to move the greenhouse and everything in my
business in less than 8 weeks. I still don't have a firm deal on a
location to move to. The seller and the city where I have an offer pending, on a
nice location close to home, are making my life miserable nit picking the deal
and delaying. I have had to threaten to choose another location in a less
regulated rural county 20 miles away. There are plenty of mini- farms being sold
very cheap due to economic reason there. If they delay more it won't be a
threat. </DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" color=#000000
size=2 face=Arial><o:p></o:p></SPAN> </P>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="BORDER-LEFT: blue 2px solid; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px">
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Arial','sans-serif'; COLOR: black; FONT-SIZE: 10pt">Do
you know, even at a guess, at the power level in kW? <o:p></o:p></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Arial','sans-serif'; COLOR: black; FONT-SIZE: 10pt"><o:p> DD
Based on the comparison to kerosene convection
heaters. Then assuming that 30-40% of the heat ends up in the
greenhouse on high burn, I can say this: It takes a 10,000 BTU
heater to get the same heat on low burn, and about
a 30,000 BTU on a high burn. That makes it top in the 100,000+ BTU per
hour range. Probably 20,000- 30,000 for 8 hrs. overnight low burn on a wood
and charcoal bed. The rest of this heat is wasted up the chimney, or heating
the well ventilated head house where the stove is located. </FONT><FONT
style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" color=#000000 size=2 face=Arial>There is
so much cold air leaking into the head house I can only maintain a 15-20
degree lift over outside temperatures. On calm nights I get a much greater
heat retention. There are holes big enough to look through and on a windy
night- well. This has been a point of frustration not knowing when I will move
for the last several years. None of my temporary structures could be made
permanent, sealing the heat in. Not when they are being torn down soon. I have
plenty of wood to burn, it's just the time to cut and load it is an issue.
</o:p></SPAN></P></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="BORDER-LEFT: blue 2px solid; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px">
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Arial','sans-serif'; COLOR: black; FONT-SIZE: 10pt">Draft
is related to the average temperature in the chimney and to a lesser extent,
the diameter. I think if you have a large enough chimney (6” seems overly
large unless the fire is huge) you will ‘win’ by reducing the average diameter
to keep the hottest gases restrained in a taller, narrower space with a higher
average temperature. That gives more buoyancy which = more draft,
automatically.</FONT></P></BLOCKQUOTE>
<DIV>DD I did not have nearly the draft with a 6 inch sheet metal pipe
going all the way up, as when I first installed the stove. The 8 inch made all
the difference. The 6 inch tended to clog from burning wet wood with a
cold stove. The 8 inch could get the stove hot enough quick enough to burn the
creosote back out of the system on a high burn. When I got busy plowing snow,
I'd fall behind on bringing wood in to dry. I'd run out of seasoned wood
in the late winter some early years with the stove and mix in unseasoned. </DIV>
<DIV> I've added another section of 6" well casing to the
top of the first. I don't get as high of a high burn with nearly the same total
chimney height. I do however get a more even burn overnight with more thermal
mass in the chimney. </DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" color=#000000
size=2 face=Arial><o:p></o:p></SPAN> </P>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="BORDER-LEFT: blue 2px solid; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px">
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Arial','sans-serif'; COLOR: black; FONT-SIZE: 10pt"><o:p> </o:p></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Arial','sans-serif'; COLOR: black; FONT-SIZE: 10pt">Have
you tried different version of this? Be interesting to hear the
results.</FONT></P></BLOCKQUOTE>
<DIV>DD I played with a similar stove called " better-N- Ben's on the back
sidewall of the greenhouse. It had several different chimney designs over the
years. It was just thin sheet metal though and I couldn't get it nearly as hot.
I never tried to preheat the air in that stove for fear of melting it. It became
quite warped as it was from running it hot. I did set up a horizontal pipe from
the stove to condense creosote for various uses around the farm. Not really
intentionally, but took advantage of the feature. The condensation tube worked
wonders on cold nights with heavy snow or rain cooling the tube. I could clean
about 3 gallons of loose crispy tar from the system every month or two in the
winter. This stove is not nearly as tolerant of wet wood. Probably due to the
primary air preheating feature of the main front stove. The first stove
described can burn wet wood a log or two at a time with the drier wood, once
warmed all the way up. </DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" color=#000000
size=2
face=Arial><o:p> Dan
</o:p></SPAN></P>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="BORDER-LEFT: blue 2px solid; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px">
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Arial','sans-serif'; COLOR: black; FONT-SIZE: 10pt"><o:p> </o:p></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Arial','sans-serif'; COLOR: black; FONT-SIZE: 10pt">Regards<o:p></o:p></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Arial','sans-serif'; COLOR: black; FONT-SIZE: 10pt">Crispin<o:p></o:p></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Arial','sans-serif'; COLOR: black; FONT-SIZE: 10pt"><o:p> </o:p></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri','sans-serif'; COLOR: #1f497d; FONT-SIZE: 11pt"
lang=EN-US><o:p> </o:p></SPAN></P><BR><BR></FONT></BLOCKQUOTE>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV></FONT></BODY></HTML>