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On 06/17/2012 10:35 AM, John Davies wrote:
<blockquote cite="mid:000001cd4c96$7d094fa0$771beee0$@telkomsa.net"
type="cite"><span
style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D">I
tried blowing cold air into the room at ground level, with a
standard room fan. This made the room more comfortable, and
forced warm air into the passage way. This is not practical,
and the fan mentioned uses a fair amount of power.</span></blockquote>
<br>
Another approach is to use convection to do the job.<br>
<br>
Assume a hot chimney (a likely condition when the stove is
running.) Putting an air to air heat exchanger (just a second
chimney touching the first with some good contact) will cause
convection to circulate air. Use ductwork to vent into the
hallway. The chimney pipe will need to be "single wall" for better
heat transfer and MUST be gas tight. Soldering is probably a good
choice, as is welding and brazing. Welding, however, means either
TIG (GTAW) on stainless or some way to guarantee no burn through. A
good aerospace or nuclear TIG welder can do these welds all day with
NO problems.<br>
<br>
As a structure, having the inner "pipes" inside a larger oval
cylinder filled with pearlite or rockwool tends to concentrate the
heat and improve flow. Always vent the lowest point in this case,
or you will have a nice bomb, or a heat exchanger partially filled
with water.<br>
<br>
There is no reason you can't add a water coil to the mechanism, and
use the warm water to reduce your hot water costs.<br>
<br>
While not as effective as a good fan, it is less power intensive and
may be sufficient. <br>
<br>
Since warm air rises, and the tubing and air will be at room
temperature before the stove starts heating, the air in the tube
should try to rise initially, bringing in cold air. The hot air
should be able to go through the duct to the hall and will help the
circulation as the duct heats.<br>
<br>
Look up Heatilators, my father had one in his home in New Jersey in
the 1950's and it really worked well. It was a wood burning
version, newer technology burns gas.<br>
<br>
Admittedly, it could rust out, and represent a CO issue, but that is
also true of air furnaces. Using an air|liquid|flue_gasses setup is
safER, but not "damned fool proof", it still requires either a
willingness to do due diligence or a death wish.<br>
<br>
Dave 8{) <br>
<div class="moz-signature">-- <br>
<em>"Political Correctness is a doctrine, fostered by a
delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an
unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition
that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean
end."</em><br>
(quoted from <a>http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30060</a>)
<br>
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