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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=EN-CA link=blue vlink=purple><div class=WordSection1><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'>Dear Jed<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'>Great set of drawings! You asked for comments:<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'>There are a few things you can do to improve the combustion and heat transfer efficiencies (which are two separate things). <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'>First, put in a grate which is what we have just been discussing. You can make it out of anything you want but cast iron if possible. If you have to make it, use reinforcing steel bars with the bumps on them. They have a higher carbon content and resist the heat better. It has to be loose and replaceable in the sense that you should not cement it into position. It is best if you can insert it through the fuel hole but based on your drawing there probably isn’t enough room. Give it 4 legs to stand at the right height.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'>Although there are no dimensions on the drawing it seems to be reasonably to scale. The position of the secondary air holes it probably too high. Basically, the flames should never touch the pot if you want to get good combustion. It is widely believed that when flames are running along the surface of a pot the heat transfer is good. In fact, it is killing the combustion as the gases can’t burn when they are cold and the whole surface of the vessel is killing combustion that should have been completed before the that point. Try to achieve ‘no flames toughing the pot’ combustion.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'>There is a long yellow brick above the fuel entrance. The top of that brick is a good place to all secondary air to enter, preferably from the front and the back in equal amounts as you have it now.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'>An important consideration for this application is that the excess air level in the stove must be kept low. You have a very large area for heat transfer which is really good. The heat transfer efficiency is strongly affected by the flame temperature, and the flame temperature is reduced by the presence of unnecessary air (which is full of cold, useless Nitrogen).<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'>If you want, you can improve the burning slightly and reduce wear and tear on the combustion chamber in general by putting the lower air supply (on the bottom of the drawing) from either the side or the back. This brings in air that is not aligned with the air entering with the fuel. Anything that you can do to break up the alignment helps. What it does is bring the flames into the central space of the combustion chamber instead of driving all the flame to the back wall. A Lion Stove <a href="http://www.newdawnengineering.com/website/library/Stoves/lionstove">http://www.newdawnengineering.com/website/library/Stoves/lionstove</a> is built that way as is the Esperanza Stove and also the similar sized stove made by Andrew (Not AJH). This change in the air entry increases the life of the combustion chamber by removing some portion of the thermal shock experienced when flames touch the walls.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'>You might consider putting a hard brick at the back of the combustion chamber to better resist the wood when it is shoved to the back by the stoker. The back surface of the combustion chamber is a frequent problem spot on a Rocket Stove if the bricks are soft. In large units people push in large and long pieces of wood until it hits the back with a whack. Whatever you teach, people will bash the heck out of it. The brick arrangement of the Lion Stove is an example of how to resist the forces with the structure available. They have held up well (over 5 years) without maintenance.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'>If you want to have some lower conduction bricks behind it, no problem, but make sure they are cemented well. The cement joint will separate because of differential thermal expansion, but at least they will be the same shape and transfer the impact evenly.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'>The addition of a fish smoker is very interesting. That is a good use of waste heat.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'>To know if you have enough air or too much getting into the fire, you need an Oxygen meter at a minimum. A combustion analyser is best of course. Try to get an oxygen reading of about 8% in the chimney. If you have nothing, try limiting the air getting into the fire until you get a visible increase in smoke then add air again. <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'>The most important thing to change is the secondary air entrance which is too high, creating flames around the pot. The flames should be completed by then and they cannot if there is a lack of air (from below). If there is enough air from below (through the fuel and under the fuel shelf) there is no need at all for the secondary air above – that just cools the fire and reduces the heat transferred to the big jar by whooshing in unneeded air. Because you have a chimney on it, it is very likely you have more than the required air getting into the stove. Remember to put in a grate flush with the top of the fuel shelf to keep the charcoal up off the bottom to let it burn completely.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'>Regards<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'>Crispin<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal style='margin-bottom:12.0pt'><span lang=EN-US>Dear All<br><br>With all respects, i wish to join in the discussion with my own concern similar to that of Josh Kearns. <br><br>Im at present building an improved wine distillery in favor of the small nipa wine producers in my hometown. The constructin is now in full scale and so im beginning to really get worried about the integrity of my design.<br><br>I do not have enough engineering background on this and do not have much equipments. So i would really appreciate it if you could also guide me through with this project. <br><br>I attached some photos and drawings of the project. <br><br>It was organized by a Japanese JICA volunteer and will help more than 200 wine producers not to mention their health and the immediate environment. <br><br>Best regards<br><br>JEd Guinto<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></body></html>