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    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">Thanks for copying me on this response,
      Crispin.<br>
      <br>
        I am also very happy whenever I hear of yet another "success
      story" with "undifferentiated Biochar" produced from small
      gasifier "stoves" and used in crop production.  Of course, the
      Biochar is almost never used <u><i>alone</i></u>, but is used
      alongside other amendments ["<span
        style="font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:black">different
        formulations</span>"] like "<span
        style="font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:black">mulch,
        compost, crushed bone, crushed coral, lava dust, and generally
        any animal and green waste</span>"...<br>
       (My most recent conversations I am having had to do with the
      complimentary use of "rock dust" ~ a.k.a. "agrominerals" and
      Biochar ... The use of 'agrominerals' is a technique that [unknown
      to me until recently] has actually been honed by many folks at the
      <i>University of Guelph</i> over the past several decades.  With
      Biochar one should be able to create high quality inoculated
      bio-chars that help to "free" the agrominerals [rock dust] of
      their 'nutrients' at a more accelerated rate.)<br>
      <br>
        I have always felt that the role of Biochar was to "<span
        style="font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:black">even
        out the soil moisture retention capabilities of the soil</span>s". 
      I actually expressed this exact sentiment to David Laird -- and
      others -- personally at the first North American Biochar
      conference in 2009 in Colorado, though it was not in those terms
      exactly.  What I had found remarkable was the ability of Biochar
      placed into my CLAY soils to actually help my [potted] plants
      survive (induced) "drought" -- a totally counter-intuitive
      outcome.<br>
       I had suggested that it was likely the <i>nature</i> of the
      "water-holding ability" of Biochar that was the benefit: i.e. the
      ability of the chars to hold onto water, but not too "tightly" ~
      which thus allows the water to be fairly easily 'unbound' from the
      char surfaces by the root systems and fungi and other living
      fractions of the soils.  (The same is likely true for the
      relationship between chars and many 'nutrients'...)<br>
      <br>
       As I also wrote recently in an unrelated thread, "I actually
      suspect that by combining... (all of these other things) with
      Biochar (and "soil microbes/fungi" etc), that we might be <b>making
        our lives </b><b><u><i>easier</i></u></b> [rather than more
      complicated] -- in terms of actually achieving "fertility
      benefits" through the addition of these amendments...  Although
      the <b><i>science</i></b> of actually 'teasing it all apart' to
      understand <u><i>exactly</i></u> what is going on in terms of the
      complex interactions that are taking place between the soils,
      minerals, plants and biology will probably get <u><b>more</b>
        complicated</u> and thus more expensive/difficult to perform.<br>
        In my mind, this complexity does <u>not</u> <i>necessarily</i>
      mean that we will not be able to achieve <i><b>quicker results</b></i>
      in terms of "food security" ~ and Climate security [mostly via <i>adaptation</i>],
      however.<br>
      <br>
       As I concluded, I wrote that, "a LOT more learning needs to be
      done to understand the various influences all of these amendments
      are actually having on the soils and the biology -- and the best
      techniques for how to restore 'balance', 'vibrancy' and perhaps
      also (some modicum of) 'stability' to the LIVING FRACTION of the
      soils -- especially from the additions of Biochar."<br>
      <br>
        As David Yarrow wrote once, "<i>ultimately, this Biochar thing
        isn't really about chemistry or carbon; it's about <b>biology</b></i>".<br>
      Don't forget: Nature offers us some extraordinary design solutions
      -- honed by 3.8 billion years of rigorous testing.<br>
       To me, what Biochar is really all about is our attempts at
      >making permanent <b>humus</b>< <u><i>faster</i></u>. 
      Humus is an amazing soil conditioner. Only 5% humus can transform
      lifeless 'rock dust' into a rich loam.  It has abilities to both
      bind sand and granulate clay.<br>
      <br>
       Have you watched the film, "<i>HUMUS: Forgotten Climate Aid</i>"?<br>
        The film documents the use of Biochar to help, "unravel the
      secret of <i>sustainably fertile soil</i> and find solutions for
      building up humus".  (The film documents the many years of work
      that have been done in the Styrian "Eco-region of Kaindorf"
      [Germany], and features many notable Biochar proponents like Dr.
      Christoph Steiner and others who use "agrocraft"** -- to build
      "targeted humus" ~ even in relatively Fertile soils. [!] )<br>
      <br>
      ** Agrokraft GmbH was created by the <i>Bavarian Farmers
        Association</i> to explore concepts and technologies like
      hydro-thermal carbonization (HTC), with the support of the <i><b>Max
          Planck Institute for Colloids and Interfaces</b></i> in
      Potsdam (near Berlin).<br>
      <br>
       "Agrokraft" is also often referred to as "<i>Climatefarming</i>"
      ~ an attempt at reproducing "Terra Preta-like" soils.<br>
      <br>
      Regards,<br>
      <br>
      <pre class="moz-signature" cols="72">  Lloyd Helferty, Engineering Technologist
  Principal, Biochar Consulting (Canada)
  <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="http://www.biochar-consulting.ca">www.biochar-consulting.ca</a>
  48 Suncrest Blvd, Thornhill, ON, Canada
  905-707-8754
  CELL: 647-886-8754
     Skype: lloyd.helferty
  Steering Committee coordinator
  Canadian Biochar Initiative (CBI)
  President, Co-founder & CBI Liaison, Biochar-Ontario
  National Office, Canadian Carbon Farming Initiative (CCFI)
  Partner of Toronto Urban Ag Summit <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="http://www.urbanagsummit.org">www.urbanagsummit.org</a> 
  Manager, Biochar Offsets Group:
           <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.linkedin.com/groups?home=&gid=2446475">http://www.linkedin.com/groups?home=&gid=2446475</a>
   Advisory Committee Member, IBI
  <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.linkedin.com/groups?gid=1404717">http://www.linkedin.com/groups?gid=1404717</a>
  <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.facebook.com/group.php?gid=42237506675">http://www.facebook.com/group.php?gid=42237506675</a>
  <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://groups.google.com/group/biochar-ontario">http://groups.google.com/group/biochar-ontario</a>
  <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.meetup.com/biocharontario/">http://www.meetup.com/biocharontario/</a>
  <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.biocharontario.ca">http://www.biocharontario.ca</a>
   <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="http://www.biochar.ca">www.biochar.ca</a>

"It is the path, more than the arrival at the destination, that is important"
 - Gandhi</pre>
      On 2012-10-21 6:04 AM, Crispin Pemberton-Pigott wrote:<br>
    </div>
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        <p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom:12.0pt"><span
style="font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:#1F497D">Thanks
            Ron for this forward. Very informative.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom:12.0pt"><span
style="font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:#1F497D"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom:12.0pt"><span
style="font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:#1F497D">Dear
            Su Ba<o:p></o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom:12.0pt"><span
style="font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:#1F497D">This
            is the second (different) positive-response use I have heard
            for undifferentiated stove char. As a water averaging soil
            ingredient it makes perfect sense. It is why we always used
            puffed (popped) vermiculite. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom:12.0pt"><span
style="font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:#1F497D"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom:12.0pt"><span
style="font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:#1F497D">The
            other application is for purification of water which can use
            the small amounts produced by stoves.  The char is treated
            with a nanosilver particle solution and becomes biologically
            active (kills bacteria). Lloyd Helferty connected me to a
            guy in the UK who knows how to do this.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom:12.0pt"><span
style="font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:#1F497D">Regards<o:p></o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom:12.0pt"><span
style="font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:#1F497D">Crispin<o:p></o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom:12.0pt"><span
style="font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:#1F497D"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom:12.0pt"><span
            style="font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:black">Su
            Ba and biochar list  (and adding "stoves")<br>
            <br>
                I am impressed.   Thanks for the (very complete)
            report.  Very nice to hear there were no problems.<br>
            <br>
                Could you describe a bit more technical details about
            your TLUDS?  First use when?    Homemade?    Presumably made
            of tin cans?  Sizes?  Any insulation?  Any  preheating of
            any air?  If controlling primary air - how?  How many uses
            before wearing/burning out?  Etc.<br>
            <br>
            Ron<br>
            <br>
               <o:p></o:p></span></p>
        <div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align:center" align="center"><span
style="font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:black">
            <hr id="zwchr" align="center" size="2" width="100%"></span></div>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><b><span
              style="font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:black">From:
            </span></b><span
            style="font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:black">"Su
            Ba" <<a moz-do-not-send="true"
              href="mailto:kaufarmer@yahoo.com">kaufarmer@yahoo.com</a>><br>
            <b>To: </b><a moz-do-not-send="true"
              href="mailto:biochar@yahoogroups.com">biochar@yahoogroups.com</a><br>
            <b>Sent: </b>Saturday, October 20, 2012 4:07:48 PM<br>
            <b>Subject: </b>Re: [biochar] Used Tractors ...biochar  on
            homestead<br>
            <br>
              <o:p></o:p></span></p>
        <div id="ygrp-mlmsg">
          <div id="ygrp-msg">
            <div id="ygrp-text">
              <div>
                <p class="MsoNormal"><span
                    style="font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:black">Ron,
                    I cannot give you the type of answer you are hoping
                    for. I produce food, not run experiments  using
                    various percentages of char, different formulations,
                    and using controls. In addition, I use a number of
                    soil amendments including char, mulch, compost,
                    crushed bone, crushed coral, lava dust, and
                    generally any animal and green waste that comes
                    available. None of my field is amended by biochar
                    alone. I also make and use foliar sprays when plants
                    show need.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
              </div>
              <div>
                <p class="MsoNormal"><span
                    style="font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:black"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
              </div>
              <div>
                <p class="MsoNormal"><span
                    style="font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:black">Having
                    said that, I saw visible improvement in the areas
                    that I started using biochar. The plants were
                    visibly more lush and withstood dry conditions
                    better. My own reasons for adding biochar is that it
                    tends to even out the soil moisture retention
                    capabilities of the soil. The areas that became
                    boggy now drain better. The areas that moisture
                    levels fluctuated wildly now tend to flatten out
                    somewhat, staying much more evenly moist. In my own
                    situation, I found that leaving the char chunky (
                    1/4 to 1 inch) works just fine. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
              </div>
              <div>
                <p class="MsoNormal"><span
                    style="font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:black"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
              </div>
              <div>
                <p class="MsoNormal"><span
                    style="font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:black">I
                    had noticed that plants looked more lush when
                    planted into ground that had a fresh application of
                    char. Thus it is now my routine to till in a light
                    application prior to each new planting. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
              </div>
              <div>
                <p class="MsoNormal"><span
                    style="font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:black"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
              </div>
              <div>
                <p class="MsoNormal"><span
                    style="font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:black">The
                    char I produce is made with a homemade TLUD stove
                    adapted for cooking. I created a series of them in a
                    line so that I can move from one to the next in
                    order to cook for more than 40 minutes at a time
                    when needed. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
              </div>
              <div>
                <p class="MsoNormal"><span
                    style="font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:black"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
              </div>
              <div>
                <p class="MsoNormal"><span
                    style="font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:black">I
                    use tree waste as fuel. Twigs and branches that I
                    put through the s<span class="apple-style-span">hredder.
                      I mostly burn ohia, eucalyptus, and coconut husks.
                      But any tree trimming are used when available. </span><o:p></o:p></span></p>
              </div>
              <div>
                <p class="MsoNormal"><span
                    style="font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:black"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
              </div>
              <div>
                <p class="MsoNormal"><span class="apple-style-span"><span
style="font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:black">When
                      I started using char, I use to quench the coals in
                      water. Just recently I changed to using using
                      urine, and when that is not available, then
                      fermented fish waste. I cannot say yet if that has
                      made a visible difference in the crops. But it
                      hasn't appeared to be hurting them. </span></span><span
style="font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:black"><o:p></o:p></span></p>
              </div>
              <div>
                <p class="MsoNormal"><span
                    style="font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:black"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
              </div>
              <div>
                <p class="MsoNormal"><span class="apple-style-span"><span
style="font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:black">Negatives?
                       It takes time. I have to gather and shred the
                      fuel. But a benefit is that I do not have to</span></span><span
style="font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:black"><o:p></o:p></span></p>
              </div>
              <div>
                <p class="MsoNormal"><span class="apple-style-span"><span
style="font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:black">purchase
                      much propane. Another negative is that my TLUD
                      stoves burn out, so I need to improve the design
                      and materials. I do not grind the char, so I don't
                      have the dust problem that others talk about. I
                      have not noticed any negative effectives on the
                      crops themselves. </span></span><span
                    style="font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:black"><o:p></o:p></span></p>
              </div>
              <div>
                <p class="MsoNormal"><span
                    style="font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:black"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
              </div>
              <div>
                <p class="MsoNormal"><span class="apple-style-span"><span
style="font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:black">I
                      hope this information helps you. </span></span><span
style="font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:black"><o:p></o:p></span></p>
              </div>
              <div>
                <p class="MsoNormal"><span
                    style="font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:black"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
              </div>
              <div>
                <p class="MsoNormal"><span class="apple-style-span"><span
style="font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:black">...Su
                      Ba</span></span><br>
                </p>
              </div>
            </div>
          </div>
        </div>
      </div>
    </blockquote>
    <br>
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