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<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>Julien,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>You always have such interesting ideas. I
have done a small amount of experimenting with injecting secondary air at an
angle as you describe, but I used a much different arrangement. My
interest was how it affected turn-down, so I was looking for getting the air
down as far as possible. Straight down worked best for that. I also
had problems with smoke. The downward flow seemed not to inject enough air
into the wood gas, so I added holes above (method 4). This helped a great
deal. I see you have no concentrator in the stove and I assume that is
because you are relying on the terbulance from the counter flow to mix the
gasses. If I were working on this design, I would try to combine stove
1 with 2 or 3. This would mean two secondary air entrances, stove 1
being an early secondary air flow, and stove 2 or 3 being the main
secondary. This would do two things, get the flame started burning early
and add the main secondary air after the flame is already burning. This
will give extra heat to the secondary flame which will help to create
a very hot secondary flame, making up for not preheating the secondary air, and
finish burning the large amount of unburned wood gas mixed into the early
secondary flame. This should minimize the smoke and soot on the
pot. It also should provide turn-down if you control the primary
air. My current stove uses this idea of double burning and it works
well</FONT><FONT size=2 face=Arial>. I don't think stove 1's narrower
combustor is the problem. I think not having enough air mixed into
the wood gas to make a hot flame and complete the burn is the problem.
Your stove 1 downward air flow will preheat the air as it descends
before it turns inward to support combustion.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>Good idea to experiment with,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>Kirk</FONT></DIV>
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dir=ltr>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="FONT: 10pt arial; BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=winter.julien@gmail.com href="mailto:winter.julien@gmail.com">Julien
Winter</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A
title=stoves@lists.bioenergylists.org
href="mailto:stoves@lists.bioenergylists.org">Discussion of biomass cooking
stoves</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Saturday, August 02, 2014 8:52
PM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> [Stoves] Trials on TLUD Gas
Burners - Counter Current Flow</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr>
<DIV>Hello stovers;</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV>This morning I woke up with an idea, and decided to give it a try.
It worked out quite well. I put a inverted, conical ring on the top of a
natural draft, top-lit updraft (ND-TLUD) reactor, and set a chimney on top of
that so that secondary air could get in between the bottom of the chimney and
the conical ring. The rig is a bit like putting a cone kiln on the top
of a TLUD. The best burner had walls of the cone at an angle 60°
from horizontal. Secondary air was forced to enter the top of the TLUD
in a downward direction, counter current to the direction of the
pyrogas rising out of the fuel bed. The result was a turbulent
flame indicative of good mixing of gases.</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV>It is too early to say if this counter flow burner is viable, but is
looks very promising. It is also very easy to manufacture.
</DIV>
<DIV>How to get the geometry for a cone can be found here: <A
href="http://zenstoves.net/PotStands-Conical.htm#MakingYourOwnCone">http://zenstoves.net/PotStands-Conical.htm#MakingYourOwnCone</A></DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV>I have attached a pretentious blurb.</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV>Cheers,</DIV>
<DIV>Julien. <BR clear=all><BR>-- <BR></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr>Julien Winter<BR>Cobourg, ON, CANADA<BR></DIV></DIV>
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