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<span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: 'Slate Pro';">"...but I found it impossible to make the holes and retain a flat enough </span><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: 'Slate Pro';">undistorted disc after the drilling. "</span></div>
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<span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: 'Slate Pro';">Make the disc thicker. The type of controller you want to make has to either have a thickness pressed into it to make a lip or groove (etc) or be thicker. To make a lipped disk you have to hold it
between to solid plates, for example 6mm thick, and bolt them together using the air holes. Use this "form" as an anvil and known the lip over with a hammer. </span></div>
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<span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: 'Slate Pro';">You can make a ring with inner and outer lips lie flat this way, or just a flat disk with a lip. </span></div>
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<span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: 'Slate Pro';"><br>
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<span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: 'Slate Pro';">The lip height should be about 6-8mm. Over that you will have difficulty getting a perfect result. I often use 5mm.
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<span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: 'Slate Pro';">Regards </span></div>
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<span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: 'Slate Pro';">Crispin </span></div>
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<div class="PlainText">On 13 Jun 2016 at 9:28, Mangolazi wrote:<br>
<br>
> Hi everyone,<br>
> <br>
> I've been messing around with a tiny gasifier based on a peach can<br>
> for camping usage. I can get about 12 minutes flame time using<br>
> twigs, although the coals inside keep burning for a lot longer. I<br>
> can boil 500 ml water in 7 minutes using twigs. <br>
> <br>
> I recently added an outer vessel for windproofing and to preheat the<br>
> secondary air. Using walnut shells, I get a very hot and high flame,<br>
> higher than with peanut shells or twigs, with flames reaching almost<br>
> to the top of the pot. Total flame time goes up to 14 minutes and<br>
> 500 ml water boils in 6 minutes, faster than before. Please see<br>
> attached images. <br>
> <br>
> How can I prevent the flame from going up so high? <br>
> <br>
<br>
I solve this problem by varying the fuel. Try adding thicker pieces of <br>
wood or damper wood, but mixed up with the shells, not layered. Layered <br>
will likely create smoke and maybe extinguish the flame. <br>
<br>
> Is it possible and feasible to throttle primary air on such small<br>
> stoves? <br>
> <br>
<br>
I haven't found a way. I tried cutting a disc of stainless steel and <br>
making holes to match the ones in the base, such that I could <br>
progressively turn the disc to close off the primary air, or most of it, <br>
but I found it impossible to make the holes and retain a flat enough <br>
undistorted disc after the drilling. When placed in the bottom it became <br>
<br>
clear that air would find its way around the sides of the disc not lying <br>
sufficiently flush to the base, largely negating any blanking effect, so <br>
I abandoned the project. Someone with more refined tincanium fettling <br>
skills than I possess may manage something though. The idea was to have <br>
a tab extend from the disc through a slot cut in the outer can in order <br>
to regulate the air during the burn.<br>
<br>
A simpler, but fixed for that burn possibility might be to place some <br>
washers over the primary air holes at the bottom of the can to restrict <br>
the primary air, but I have not tried this since I find varying the fuel <br>
the most satisfying solution to 'turn down'. When I'm camping it seems <br>
easy to find sufficiently variable fuel to achieve the fire I want and <br>
experience teaches how to do this and is very satisfying when you get it <br>
just right. After about 20 minutes or so, ash accumulates to the extent <br>
that the primary air holes get increasingly blocked, and by varying the <br>
amount of riddling with a stick you can also control the primary air that <br>
<br>
way. This can be a useful way to achieve a simmer, after a rapid boil, <br>
but it is easy to lose the flame if you don't riddle. Practice, keen <br>
observation and continuous experiment teaches how to get what you want <br>
from these stoves, but I still make the occasional smokey mess.<br>
<br>
Just spent five days in wet Wales doing just fine with cooking and <br>
brewing on wood.<br>
<br>
Neil Taylor<br>
<br>
<br>
> Has anyone used peanut or walnut shells for daily cooking on a large<br>
> TLUD? <br>
<br>
Not that large, unless the Reed XL counts as large?<br>
I've used pistachio shells successfully, and since moving a garden shed <br>
and uncovering a barrow full of mouse opened plum stones, nicely dried, I <br>
<br>
have been finding these a robust, longer life fuel on their own, albeit <br>
harder to light off initially. They sometimes get added to the mix now <br>
instead of or with damper wood when I want something less than a towering <br>
<br>
inferno.<br>
<br>
Although I have made quite a few tincanium microgasifier ND TLUDs I now <br>
use the cheap chinese wood gas stoves sold on ebay for 10 UK pounds or <br>
thereabouts as they are so well made and pack to less than half their <br>
operating size into a small billy can in seconds. They are really <br>
excellent - I would say optimal in design for camping use, especially <br>
when finding fuel in wetter climates like the UK. With little or no <br>
moisture in the fuel the burn can be towering and last about 10 minutes, <br>
and boil a full kettle in that time, but the up side is that if the fuel <br>
is damper, a good burn is still achievable, and more useful for most <br>
cooking, and usually much less smokey. They are also just as useful used <br>
<br>
conventionally, not as a TLUD, but also easily transition from TLUD to <br>
continuous feed to extend the burn. The char is being consumed so quickly <br>
<br>
that a fresh fire is easily revived from the char stage provided it <br>
hasn't all been consumed of course. With a large amount of primary air, <br>
adding fuel makes less smoke than with the cleaner emissions 1 to 6 <br>
primary to secondary air ratios such as the Reed fan Woodgas campstoves. <br>
<br>
No reason though why you shouldn't obtain the same versatility from a <br>
home made tin can stove. Most of the ones I made aimed for the cleaner <br>
burn with the 1 to 6 ratio or thereabouts, but it made them harder to use <br>
<br>
and fuel fussy. Just put a 'grate' rather than a restricted base in and <br>
vary the fuel, and you should find your camp stove relatively easy to get <br>
<br>
and keep going. You get soot on the pot, but that is easily wiped off, <br>
leaving a black finish that then goes in a plastic bag to keep it to <br>
itself.<br>
<br>
Have fun :)<br>
<br>
Best wishes, Neil Taylor<br>
<br>
> <br>
> Thanks! <br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
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